I sv 



153 
3«? 




FfiESH EGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 

— __ 



A TREATISE 



ON EGGS AND BUTTER, SHOWING METHODS OF PRESERVING 



EGGS, BUTTER, MEATS, ETC. 



WITH THE PROCESS OF 



DEOXYGENATING AND INSULATING EGGS. 



AND OTHER NEW AND 



VALUABLE INFORMATION 

USEFUL TO THE PRODUCE DEALER, GROCER, DAIRYMAN, 
CHEESE-MAKER, FARMER, DRUGGIST, MANUFACTURER, Etc. 



"W- O. BRUSON, 

PRACTICAL CHEMIST. 



Consequitur quodcunque petit. 

/ 
CHICAGO, ILL.: 

Western News Company, 121 and 123 State Street. 

/ £ 

: 




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by W. C. BRUSON, in 

the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the 

Northern District of Illinois. 



Evening Journal Print, 46 Doarborn Street. 




// 



FARMERS' DAUGHTERS OF AMERICA, 

Who take pride in gathering fresh eggs, and are accomplished in the 

art of making sweet yellow butter, and by their energy and 

enterprise stimulate the hardy sons of the soil to 

cultivate the fields, that they may teem with 

golden heads of wheat and waving corn, 

THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, 

With the compliments of 

THE AUTHOR. 



f$n%}\ @tjgs mid §ellaw §niieij. 



xC Gr Or S 5 

DEOXYGENATED AND INSULATED, REMAIN IN A FRESH STATE. 



BUTTER. 



PRESERVED AND COLORED. RANCID BUTTER RESTORED. 



EXPLANATION OF TERMS. 



Compound. — A mass or body formed by the union or mixture of two or 
more substances. A chemical compound is composed of two or 

more bodies united in certain invariable proportions. Thus 49 parts of 

sulphuric acid, and 28 parts of quick lime form sulphate of lime or plaster 

of pari s. 

Deodorizing — Depriving of odor. 

Deozygenating — Depriving of oxygen. 

Digest — In chemistry, to soften and prepare or dissolve by heat. 

Diluted — Made thin or weak by adding fluids. 

Endosmosis — Passage inward of liquids, vapors, or gases through mem- 
branes or porous substances 

Exosmosis — Passage outward of liquids, vapors, or gases through mem- 
branes or porous substances. 

Insulation. — Non-communication with other substances. Insulated eggs 
are not liable to endosmosis or exosmosis. 

Maceration — Softening in water, or soaking in a fluid. 

Mixture — Ingredients blended without an alteration of their substances. 
A mere mechanical union of bodies. For instance, corn and 
oats may be mixed, but not combined. 

Solution— Dissolving a solid in a fluid. Thus, salt disappears in water, 
its solution takes place. The liquid is called a Solution of Salt 
in Water. Solution is a true chemical union. 

Saturated Solution. — Solution is the result of attraction or affiinity between 
the fluid and the solid. This affinity continues to operate to a 
certain point where the fluid no longer possesses any solvent 
properties; it is then saturated and the fluid is called a, saturated 
solution. Thus, one gallon of water will only dissolve three 
pounds of common salt. It is then saturated. Any additional 
salt will remain undissolved. 

Saponified. — Converted into soap. 

Specific Gravity. — Density of bodies as compared with an equal bulk of 
water. Water is the standard for solids and liquids, common air 
for gases. 

Water-bath. — A kettle or vessel of water, over a tire, in which is placed 
another vessel containing fluid that requires only a heat below 
the boiling point of water. Water boils at 212° F. Water in the 
vessel in a water-bath can only be heated to 207° F. 



PREFACE. 

The subjects which this volume is designed to elucidate 
have, in their consideration and investigation, engaged mv 
attention for the past fifteen years. Their importance, and 
that of the improvements and discoveries made, have con- 
strained me to undertake the task of placing them before the 
public in the form of a book. 

While I have aimed to secure enough accuracy in the de- 
tails of these processes and directions to insure their success- 
ful application, it has also been my endeavor to render the 
language and style as free from technicalities as possible. 

In order to subserve the interests of not only Produce 
dealers, Dairymen and Farmers, but also of several other 
classes of industry, a large amount of information not sug- 
gested by (he title has been introduced. 

In every department and subject discussed, not only have 
my own discoveries and processes been faithfully stated, but 
the cream of all that is known thereon has been transcribed 
for the benefit of the reader. 

The processes of deoxygenating and insulating 
eggs, preparing kerosene oil and other barrels and vats by 
insulation, the insulation of egg-preserving solutions and 
mixtures, the restoration of rancid butter, and the preserva- 
tion and coloring of white and streaked butter, as well as 
many others, are wholly new and original, and ar<> herein, 



J v Preface. 

for the first time, given to the public. It is believed that 
these discoveries will inaugurate a complete revolution in 
the art of preserving eggs and butter. 

The information regarding the preservation of wood, 
metal, stone and meat, tanning, soaps, inks, sirups, vinegar, 
wines, cider, aniline dyes, etc., etc., is reliable, and considered 
the best for practical purposes. 

Indeed, it has been the object of the author to make the 
work worth many times its price to those engaged or 
interested in any department of industry of which it treats. 

With the confident hope that my efforts to diffuse reliable 
information on the topics which most intimately concern our 
happiness and prosperity will be appreciated and appropri- 
ately rewarded, this work is respectfully submitted to the 
judgment of an intelligent public. 

THE AUTHOR. 



FRESH EGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 



In the multiplicity of methods to preserve eggs in a state 
of freshness, and to restore rancid butter, it is well known 
that, heretofore, there have been no successful and practical 
processes which meet with general approval. 

To keep eggs in a fresh and healthy condition from 
spring to winter, at a reasonable expense, is a great desider- 
atum to the public. 

Nor is it of less importance to know how to preserve 
good butter, and how to redeem sour and rancid butter by a 
process of purification which is effectual, cheap and expe- 
ditious, answering the needs of the Grocer and the Produce 
Dealer in every particular, so that they may be able to supply 
the public with fresh eggs and sweet, yellow butter. 

Almost every Produce Dealer, Grocer and Farmer has 
tried one or more processes for preserving eggs, but to all 
these there are more or less objections. 

It is claimed by some that the edible substance of the 
egg known as the yelk (vitellus ovi), and the white (albumen 
ovi), should be preserved by chemical agents that will pene- 
trate the porous substance of the egg-shell, and thus cure the 
egg, without imparting to it any unpleasant flavor ; but vari- 
ous obstacles have arisen which renders this method very 



6 -pRESH JlGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 

objectionable; as, for instance, the conversion of the albumen 
of the egg into a watery substance, and the hardening and 
drying of the yelk. Others claim that hermetically sealing 
or covering the egg-shell with varnish, liquid glue, gum, etc., 
which renders it impervious to air, is sufficient to keep 
the egg long enough for all practical purposes. 

Before setting forth the processes which may be relied 
upon, we propose to show the chemical effects on the egg of 
the principal agents now in use. 

First — The common quicklime, [Oxyd of Calcium), has 
been the chief agent used in almost every quarter of the 
globe. It has been tried in its pure state and with various 
compounds, and the question now arises; how does lime 
act upon the egg ? 

It is believed by some that when lime-water is too 
strong, it " cooks" the egg, and " eats" the shell, as com- 
monly expressed. Others contend that when the lime-water 
is too weak, the eggs are spoiled, and indeed there seems to 
be no settled rule for using lime in the preservation of eggs. 
Lime-water never dissolves any portion of the shell, which, 
being composed of carbonate of lime, is not soluble in 
alkalies, but, on the contrary, when exposed to the action 
of lime-water for several months, is increased in thickness, 
caused by a deposit of carbonate of lime on its surface ; for 
example, the interior surfaces of tea-kettles and boilers are 
incrusted by the carbonate of lime from hard water in a 
similar manner. 

Acids and not alkalies dissolve the shell of the egg. 

Some prefer to use the fresh lime [Oxyd of Calcium), 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 7 

slaked in an excess of water ; others take the freshly slaked 
lime, {Hydrate of Lime), slaked with about half its weight 
of water, and to which, when used for eggs, more or less 
water is added. 

We will now treat of the properties of Lime. It is 
well known that its solution possesses caustic properties, but 
of the weakest class. For instance, one pint of either slaked 
or unslaked lime, stirred into a barrel of water, renders it just 
so strongly impregnated as if a half-bushel, or any greater 
quantity of lime, was added. This statement may appear in- 
credulous, but it is a well-known fact to chemists. 

Water dissolves but a minute fraction of lime, and, con- 
trary to the general law, less is dissolved in hot than in 
cold water. 

A gallon of water at boiling point (212° Fahr. ) dissolves 45 grs. of Lime. 

" ( 60° " ) " 74 

" at 1 deg. above | . ^ Q u . tt QQ 
" " freez'gpointor / ^ ' 

A barrel of 32 gallons of water, at 60° Fahr., the average 
temperature of water in the summer months, requires only 5 oz. 
of pure lime to make a saturated solution, which renders it just 
as strong as if a bushel of lime had been used ; but the lime 
water, by exposure, attracts carbonic acid from the atmos- 
phere, and becomes covered with a thin pellicle, or 
coating, of insoluble carbonate of lime, which, subsiding 
after a time, is replaced by another, and so on, successively, 
until the whole of the lime has become insoluble. Hence, 
in order to keep lime-water of a uniform strength, i. e. a sat- 
urated solution, it must be kept in closely corked bottles, or 
the vessels must contain an excess of lime. To illustrate : 



8 j^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 

in order to keep a barrel of saturated lime-water for six or 
eight months, when it is exposed to the air, it will be neces- 
sary to add a few ounces of lime every few days, or else put 
into the barrel a peck of lime at the beginning, which will 
require stirring every few weeks, as some lime contains more 
or less clay and magnesia, which cause the lime that has set- 
tled at the bottom to become more or less hard. In such cases, 
the water does not dissolve any more lime, unless frequently 
stirred. This accounts for lime-water losing its strength, even 
when there is an excess of lime present. When a cold, satur- 
ated solution of lime-water is heated, a deposition of lime • 
takes place, but upon cooling it is re-dissolved. Lime-water 
is colorless, inodorous, and of a slightly disagreeable alkaline 
taste. It changes reddened litmus test paper and vegetable 
reds to blue, and forms an insoluble soap with oils. Carbon- 
ate of lime, as above mentioned, is lime which has lost its 
strength or caustic properties by exposure to the air, and it 
is of no utility for making lime-water. Hence, air-slaked 
lime should never be used for this purpose. By the absorp- 
tion of carbonic acid from the atmosphere, the lime is grad- 
ually converted into a carbonate, and is thus rendered insoluble 
in water. Marble, chalk, etc., are among the carbonates of 
lime. In regard to the effect of lime upon the egg sub- 
stance, if an egg be broken into lime-water and allowed to 
remain in it at any temperature from 55° to 100° Fahr. for 
three weeks, the result will.be a completely spoiled egg. 

The best method heretofore used for preserving eggs with 
lime has been to mix a sufficient quantity of lime with water, 
to the consistency of cream, and immerse the eggs therein. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 9 

It is a well-known fact that eggs, after remaining for some 
length of time in lime and water, undergo a chemical change. 
Decomposition of the white of the egg, or albumen, takes 
place, and it becomes watery. 

The chemical composition of the white of eggs is about 
85 parts water, 2 parts gluten, and 13 parts pure albumen, 
or animal mucilage. 

The egg-shell being porous, after remaining in a lime 
mixture sufficient length of time, the lime-water percolates 
or soaks through the shell, and dissolves more or less of 
the white of the egg, rendering it watery. 

Some eggs, having a close, compact shell, are nut soon 
affected by the alkali, but the majority of limed eggs are 
affected in about forty or fifty days, but may remain even 
longer with but slight change, according to the freshness 
of the eggs and the temperature at which the mixture is 
kept. 

Eggs, having been kept on hand two or three weeks, in 
warm weather, and then put into the lime-mixture at a temper- 
ature above 70 p , will usually spoil in a few weeks. If strictly 
fresh eggs are put into the lime mixture, and it be kept at a 
temperature below 50°, they may be preserved for about 
eighty or ninety days without very material change, and may 
keep from spring to winter with but a partial loss or decom- 
position of the albumen. After the decomposition of the 
white of the egg, the yelk necessarily becomes involved ; it is 
the last portion of the egg that spoils. When the white 
becomes watery, its specific gravity is lessened, and, being 
less buoyant the yelk settles till it rests on the shell, where not 
being protected by the albumen, endosmosis of atmospheric 



10 Fresh F-ggs and Yellow Butter. 

oxygen, aud other substances abnormal to the egg, soon 
hastens decomposition and putrefaction. 

A few weeks after eggs are put into lime-water, the pores 
of the shells become partially closed by a deposit of the car- 
bonate of lime on the surface of the shells, rendering absorp- 
tion of the lime-water slow ; and though decomposition may 
have commenced, as is explained before in reference to stale 
eggs, the supply of atmospheric oxygen is lessened, it being 
only partially excluded by the lime. Lime-water will not 
prevent decomposition of the substance of the egg when it 
has commenced. 

This fact is known by the experienced buyers when such 
eggs are offered for sale, upon examination they are found 
to be watery, and many of them spoiled. 

They are called " limed eggs," and have a slow sale ; their 
market price is from ten to thirty per cent, less than for fresh 
eggs. 

Various substances have been used in combination with 
lime, with a view of rendering it more efficient as an egg 
preservative, but without the least success, if we may except 
common salt. 

An excess of salt with lime, however, causes a more 
rapid dissolution of the albumen, and at the same time hard- 
ens the yelk Such eggs are generally, though erroneously, 
said to be "cooked" by the action of the lime, when it is 
mainly due to the effect of the salt. 

For a proof of this statement, place eggs in a saturated 
solution of salt in water. After temaining in it forty or 
fifty days, at a temperature above 60°, the whites of the eggs 



Fresh JEggs and Yellow Butter 11 

will be discovered to be very watery, and the yelks preterna- 
turally hard and tough. The solvent properties of the lime, 
as before stated, dissolve or disintegrate the albumen and 
yelk, and a small proportion of salt may be properly used, 
to partially correct this effect. 

The presence of salt may readily be detected by the taste 
in both the white and yelk of the egg, as soon as its absorp- 
tion takes place. 

It is an established fact that either a lime or a salt 
solution, or both combined, will dissolve the white of the 
egg, in a time proportioned to the firmness of the egg-shell 
and the freshness of the eggs, and the temperature at which 
they are kept, which, if below 40° Fahr., wholly retards 
decomposition, while at 50° Fahr. decomposition is slow. At 
from 60° to 70° decay is more rapid, and so increasing with 
a higher temperature at from 80° to 100° Fahr. but a fciv 
weeks are required to sjioll eggs % the best " lime process " 
known. 

A series of experiments have determined the quantity of 
salt required to prevent the yelk from being dissolved by the 
lime-water. 

The following is considered the best formula for the " lime 
process," which is not generally known : 

Take of fresh unslaked lime, 40 lbs. 
Common barrel salt, 2 lbs. 
Cold or hot water, 20 galls. 

After the lime slakes or dissolves in the water (which will 
require from twenty to thirty minutes), stir it occasionally for 
about an hour ; and then for one or two days stir, from time 



12 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 

to time, in order that the solution may cool down to the tem- 
perature of the surrounding atmosphere. The above quan- 
tity of solution (which may be called the " Cream of Lime 
Compound ") is then ready, and is sufficient to cover about 
1 50 dozen of eggs, the usual number required to fill a 42 to 45 
gallon barrel. As the specific gravity of this mixture is 
considerably greater than water, eggs will not readily sink in 
it ; hence it will be best to put the eggs into a clean empty 
barrel, of the capacity of 45 gallons, placing them in carefully, 
so that they may not be broken. The last layer of eggs should 
be about three inches below the top of the barrel ; then pour on 
the " Cream of Lime Compound," which has been previously 
prepared in another barrel. Just before dipping it out, stir 
it thoroughly, so that it may be evenly mixed. When the 
eggs are covered with the mixture, spread over them a 
thin cotton cloth, so that they may be entirely covered; and 
pour on the top of the cloth the "Cream of Lime Compound," 
to the depth of at least two inches. Then pour over all 
one quart of refined paraffin oil (see process for refining the 
oil), and cover the barrel closely with a couple of thick- 
nesses of paper and a board cover. 

The cloth is spread over the eggs to receive whatever 
sediment of lime may subside from the additional solution 
poured over them, which sediment will feed the solution 
from above, and thus tend to keep it of a uniform strength, 
and by its weight prevent the eggs from rising to the surface. 

The oil is added to prevent evaporation, chemical change, 
and absorption of impurities and gases from the atmos- 
phere. As ordinary barrels are liable to leak, and as it is 
essential that their contents should not be lessened, for the 



Fresh F.ggs and Yellow ^utter. 13 

eggs would then be liable to spoil, they should be examined 
every week, and more solution added, if necessary. 

By all means, prepare the barrels or vats for holding egg- 
preserving solutions according to the method of preparing kerosene 
oil and other barrels, as it will save much anxiety about leakage. 

Do not use any more salt than is prescribed in the formu- 
la, nor any more lime, as it would render the mixture too 
thick; nor a less quantity, as it would render it too thin, and 
the lime, settling to the bottom, would produce a chemical 
change in the solution. The quantity of lime given in the 
formula will keep the mixture about the consistence of cream, 
and thus preserve a uniform strength. 

Repeated experiments have enabled us to give the follow- 
ing rule : 

To each gallon of water add two lbs. of fresh, unslaked 
lime, and an ounce and a half of common salt. 

The w r ater should all be poured on at one time, and we 
prefer to have it at the boiling point, in order to expel any 
oxygen it may contain in solution. Be particular to have the 
"Cream of Lime Compound" cold and well stirred just before 
pouring it upon the eggs as directed. Do not use, on any con- 
sideration, preparations of soda, potash, borax, saltpetre, 
cream of tartar, tartaric acid, or any other acid or alkali, in 
combination with the " Cream of Lime Compound," as they 
are not egg preservatives. 

Some persons have used these prohibited chemical agents 
in combination with lime and salt solutions with comparative 
success, but this was not owing to their employment, for had 
they been used in excess, the destruction of the eggs would 
have been greatly accelerated. 



14 Fresh F.ggs and Yellow Butter. 

The addition of soda, potash, or any other alkali, to the 
mixture of lime, as before mentioned, only renders it more 
caustic, and it therefore dissolves the albumen, or white, 
of the egg in less time than if lime alone were used. 
When tartaric acid and cream of tartar are used with the 
lime solution, they are converted into the tartrate of lime? 
an inert compound. Therefore the addition of these articles 
are useless. 

Before dismissing the subject of lime, we will give the 
following, which is a decided improvement over the old lime 
formula, and which we denominate, for convenience, the 

IMPROVED LIME PROCESS. 

Take fresh, unslaked lime, 40 pounds. 
Pure tallow, cut in thin slices 5 " 
Paraffin wax, " " 1 " 

Boiling water, 20 gallons. 

(Note. — Cold water should never be used, as the combination will 
not be perfect.) 

Mix these together in a suitable barrel, and, as soon as 
the lime begins to slake, stir occasionally for an hour, and, 
afterwards, three or four times a day for two days, by which 
time the mixture will be cold. 

The mixture is now ready, and is sufficient to cover 145 
to 150 dozen eggs — the usual number required to fill a 
43 to 45 gallon barrel. 

As the specific gravity of this mixture is considerably 
greater than water, eggs will not readily sink in it; hence, it 
is best to put the eggs into a clean, empty barrel, of the 
capacity of 45 gallons, placing them in carefully so they may 
not be broken. The last layer of eggs should be about three 



Fresh jEggs and Yellow ^utter 15 

inches below the top of the barrel. Then gradually pour on 
the mixture, previously prepared in another barrel, but just 
before dipping it out, stir it thoroughly, so that it may be 
evenly mixed throughout. 

When the eggs are entirely covered with this mixture, 
spread over them a thin cotton cloth within the barrel, and 
pour on the top of the cloth more of the same mixture, to 
the depth of two inches, and then pour over all one quart 
of the refined paraffin oil (see process for refining the oil), 
and finally cover the barrel closely with a couple of thick- 
nesses of paper and a board cover. 

The cloth is spread over the eggs to receive whatever 
sediment of lime may subside from the additional mixture 
poured over them, which sediment will feed the solution 
from above, and thus tend to keep it of uniform strength, 
and by its weight prevent the eggs from rising to the surface. 

The oil is added to prevent evaporation, chemical change, 
and absorption of impurities and gases from the atmos- 
phere. As ordinary barrels are liable to leak, and as it is 
essential that their contents should not be lessened, as the 
eggs would then be liable to spoil, they should be examined 
every week, and more solution added, if necessary. 

By all means, prepare the barrels or vats for holding egg- 
preserving solutions according to the method of preparing kerosene 
oil and other barrels, as it will save much anxiety about leakage. 

The above is far superior to the ordinary lime process, as 
by the chemical combination of the ingredients an insoluble 
soap is formed, which prevents, in a great measure, the lime 
from settling and adhering to the egg-shell, as is usually 
the case in the ordinary lime process. 



16 Fresh Eggs and Yellow ^Sutter. 

In place of using tallow and paraffin with lime in the 
improved lime process, we Lave tried lard, stearin, sperm- 
aceti, linseed oil, olive oil, cotton-seed oil, and other oil and 
fats, but they do not answer so well. 

None but the purest and sweetest beef or mutton tallow 
should be used. 

Paraffin may be substituted for tallow; but six pounds 
of paraffin, at 40 cents a pound, amounts to $2.40, which, 
with the expense of 40 lbs. of lime, makes the whole cost 
for preserving 150 dozen eggs about two cents a dozen, which 
renders the use of paraffin objectionable to the large dealer. 
In this case five pounds of pure, sweet tallow may be sub- 
stituted, as set forth in the formula, and will answer for 
all ordinary purposes, when eggs are kept at a temperature 
below GO Fahr. 

When all paraffin is used, the composition will resist a 
higher temperature, in consecpiencc of the paraffin being a 
bad conductor of heat. 

Hence it is advisable that some paraffin be used, as a 
better combination is made by its addition. 

We will now give the best 

DRY PROCESS. 

Take coarsely powdered charcoal, 1 bushel, carbolic acid 
crystals, J oz., dissolved in 4 oz. of alcohol, 95 per cent. 
This solution must be carefully sprinkled over and well stirred 
into the powdered charcoal. It is now ready for use, and 
should be kept in covered barrels or boxes, in a dry place, 
where it will not be liable to attract moisture, till required 
for use. 



Fresh F.ggs and Yellow jButter 17 

Prepare the eggs before packing them in this compound, 
by the dcoxygenating and insulating process. 

Pack in common flour barrels or boxes firmly, and in the 
same manner as when packed in oats, and they may be 
shipped in this dry packing to market. 

To prevent the charcoal from sifting out, paste paper, 
with common flour paste, on the inner surface of the barrel 
or box, and allow it to dry thoroughly before using. 

Head up the barrels securely, and keep them in as cool a 
place as possible, and every two weeks they should be 
inverted. 

We find that this packing preserves the eggs better 
than any other dry packing, while the cost of the materials 
is trifling. 

It is well known to chemists that charcoal and carbolic 
acid are among the best antiseptics and deodorizing agents 
used. Another advantage which this method possesses is, 
that, in case of breakage, no inj ury will accrue to the sound eggs, 
as all tendency to putrefaction of the substance of the broken 
eggs is arrested by the use of the carbolic acid and charcoal. 
The egg-shells being thoroughly coated by the refined mate- 
rials used in the deoxygenating and insulating process, no fears 
need be entertained that the odor of carbolic acid will be 
communicated to the egg. 

Eggs, if strictly fresh when put up by this process, will 
remain in a good condition for a long time, in any climate. 

THE EFFECTS OF CERTAIN CHEMICAL AGENTS UPON EGGS. 

It is proper to state that, in some instances, persons 
have kept eggs in a passably good condition for several months 
in certain chemical mixtures; but it is to be borne in mind 

2 



1g Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

that the credit belongs to the freshness of the eggs and the 
lowness of temperature at which they are kept, instead of to 
the virtues attributed to those compounds. 

SALT — ITS EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

Eggs have been kept a long time packed in dry salt, at a 
low temperature ; but this method is unreliable, as many 
failures are reported. Were the salt deprived of its water 
by calcination, eggs packed in it, and kept at a temperature 
below 50° Fahr., in a close vessel, would be preserved a 
long time. 

Salt is a bad conductor of heat, and therefore has a tend- 
ency to keep eggs cool, but if once heated it remains so a 
long time. 

DRY ASHES THEIR EFFECTS' UPON EGGS. 

Dry ashes have also been used, with the view of pre- 
serving eggs, but unless kept at a temperature below 50° 
Fahr., the process is unreliable. 

OATS — THEIR EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

Grains of various kinds have been used. Oats, if old, 
perfectly dry, and free from must, will preserve eggs, if kept 
in a cool place. Oats, being an imperfect conductor of heat, 
are doubtless, of all the cereals, the best for dry packing. 
But they may be used with much better effect if the eggs 
are first prepared by the deoxygenating and insulating pro- 
cess, in the manner recommended for charcoal packing. 

It is advisable to invert the the barrel or box in which 
eggs are packed once in two weeks. 



j^RESH pGGS AND YeLLOW EUTTER 19 

The liability of oats to attract moisture, and become heated 
and musty, renders it necessary to use none but old, dry oats. 

KILN-DRIED SAND — ITS EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

Kiln-dried sand may be used with success at a temperature 
below 50° Fahr. 

BRAN, CUT STRAW AND CHAFF — THEIR EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

Bran, cut straw and chaff have also been used to preserve 
eggs. But as these agents are very uncertain, and often 
heat, especially if damp, they are decidedly objectionable, 
unless kept at a low temperature and in a dry place. 

SAWDUST AND SHAVINGS THEIR EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

Eggs should never be packed in sawdust or shavings, 
under any circumstances, as these substances readily commu- 
nicate their odors to the eggs, and render them unfit for 
use. 

LIQUID SILICATE OF SODA — AS A DRY COATING FOR EGGS. 

We will now treat of silicate of soda as an egg preserv- 
ative. It has a great affinity for, and readily combines with, 
various preparations of lime, clay, sand, and other substances 
of an alkaline or neutral character; but it must never be 
used with anything of an acid nature, common salt, salt- 
petre, alum, etc., as it is incompatible with such substances. 

We have made many experiments with this preparation 
for the preservation of eggs. In consequence of its affinity 
for carbonate of lime, we have applied it as a coating to eggs 
in a cold, warm and hot state, of various degrees of density, 
separately and in combination with other agents. When 



20 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 

used for coating eggs, enough water must be added to reduce 
it to about 25° Baume, which is about [the consistence or 
density of thin syrup or varnish. In this form it may be 
applied to the eggs by a common varnish brush, or they 
may be dipped into it. It readily unites with the carbonate 
of lime of the egg-shell, and upon exposure to the air dries 
in a few minutes, forming an insoluble silicate of lime, a 
hard, transparent, glass-like coating, unless the egg has been 
in contact with grease, oil, varnish, acids, or common salt. 

Although the silicate of soda renders the shell impervi- 
ous to water or air, by forming, as it were, an air-tight casing, 
yet, like all air-proof agents, it can only be used with success 
when the eggs are strictly fresh, or on the day they are laid ; 
in which case they will keep for a long time. 

But as it is impracticable for dealers to get this class of 
eggs in large quantities, it is not recommended for general use 
as a dry coating for them. 

The question will naturally occur to many of our readers, 
why the silicate of soda solution, or other air-proof coatings, 
will not preserve stale eggs as well as decidedly fresh or new- 
laid eggs ? Because stale eggs are already in the incipient 
stage of decomposition, and contain a much larger percentage 
of atmospheric oxygen, the principal exciting cause of decom- 
position, which, once commenced, will continue, unless the 
eggs are deoxygenated, or the temperature at which the eggs 
are kept be below 50° Fahr ; therefore the mere air-proof 
coating of stale eggs will not long preserve them. 



Fresh F-ggs and Yellow Butter. 21 

CREAM OF TARTAR (BITARTRATE OF POTASS A) — ITS EFFECTS 
UPON EGGS. 

A solution of cream of tartar in water will spoil eggs in 
about forty days, causing them to become sour. 

Cream of tartar, when combined with lime, is entirely neu- 
tralized by the alkaline properties of the lime ; hence cream 
of tartar, an expensive chemical, is useless as an egg pre- 
servative, either alone or in combination with other chem- 
icals. 

DILUTED SULPHURIC ACID ITS EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

Diluted sulphuric acid has been recommended as an agent 
for preserving eggs, by the immersion of the egg for a few 
moments. 

The theory is, that the acid combines with a portion of 
the calcareous substance of the shell, forming with it sulphate 
of lime, but this chemical change from the carbonate to the 
sulphate of lime produces no perceptible effect of closing the 
pores of the shell. 

We have tried fliis method with various strengths of diluted 
acid, and different lengths of time for the egg to remain in the 
solution; but it will not answer practically, as the acid 
corrodes and weakens the shell, and hastens decomposition _ 

ALUM — ITS EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

A saturated solution of alum will spoil an egg in about 
three weeks. 

The sulphuric acid contained in the alum, (about 30 per 
cent.), dissolves the shell, composed principally of carbonate 
of lime, in a short time. 



22 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter, 

Alum has been used, in combination with lime and water, 
as a preservative, but the alum, being acid in character, is 
neutralized by the lime, and is therefore useless. 

BI-SULPHIDE OF CALCIUM, BI-SULPHIDE OF SODIUM, SUL- 
PHATE OF LIME, VINEGAR, TARTARIC ACID, MURIATIC 
ACID, OXALIC ACID, ACETIC ACID, ETC., ETC. 

The effects of these substances are similar to that of 
diluted sulphuric acid, and they should never be used for 

preserving eggs. 

CARBONATE OF POTASSA AND CARBONATE OF SODA (SAL 
SODA) — THEIR EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

The solutions of these salts possess stronger alkaline pro- 
perties than lime, but their admixture produces a compound 
more caustic and destructive, and therefore more powerfully 
solvent to the white of the egg, which renders the egg unfit 
for use in fifty or sixty days, at a temperature from 60° to 
70° Fahr. 

BORAX (BI-BORATE OF SODA) — ITS EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 
Solutions of borax in water, of various strengths, have 
been used. As borax is of a feeble alkaline nature, with a 
sweetish taste, it was hoped that it would be found superior 
to lime for keeping eggs, but they will spoil, by the white 
souring, in about sixty days, at a temperature from G0° to 70°. 
A pound of borax to a gallon of spring water, at a tempera- 
ture of 60° Fahr., forms a saturated solution which will keep 
the eggs a few days longer than a weaker solution. 

SALTPETRE (NITRATE OF POTASSA) — ITS EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

The effects of this agent are nearly identical with those 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 23 

of common salt, causing the white to become red and watery, 
and rendering; the yelk hard in about sixty-five days. 

SULPHITE OF LIME, CHLORIDE OF CALCIUM, CHLORIDE OF 
LIME, BI-CARBONATE OF SODA, SULPHITE OF SODA, SUL- 
PHATE OF SODA, HYPO-SULPHITE OF SODA, PHOSPHATE 
OF SODA, TARTRATE OF POTASSA AND SODA, CHLORATE 
OF POTASSA, TARTRATE OF POTASSA, CARBONATE OF 
AMMONIA, BI-CARBONATE OF POTASSA, ETC. 

The above chemical substances, being of an alkaline or 
neutral character, exert no specific effect in preserving eggs. 

CARBOLIC ACID AND PYROLIGNEOUS ACID THEIR EFFECTS 

UPON EGGS. 
By the use of these agents, diluted with water, eggs 
may be kept a long time, as these materials are highly anti- 
septic ; but the objection to their use is, that they impart a 
strong, smoky taste to the eggs. 

GLYCERINE ITS EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

Glycerine is a valuable agent for preserving animal sub- 
stances. It is preferable to alcohol, inasmuch as glycerine 
does not cause the substances preserved in it to shrink or 
change color, nor does it lessen its bulk by evaporation. 
With a knowledge of these properties, and the known 
antiseptic qualities of glycerine, we have made numerous 
experiments with it. On account of the expense of this pre- 
paration, it is not practicable to employ it in its concen- 
trated form. Diluted with water, in various proportions from 
2 oz. to 16 oz. of glycerine to a gallon of water, we find no 
difficulty in preserving eggs. 



2-4 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 

But its use is open to serious objections, as it is a most 
powerful solvent, acting with great force upon the yelk of 
the egg, dissolving it aud rendering it fluid, and combining 
with the albumen in a most unsatisfactory manner, so that 
when the egg is broken the yelk does not retain its form, 
but is spread out and intermixed with the albumen. 

SUGAR — ITS EFFECTS UPON EGGS. 

A weak solution of sugar in water soon becomes con- 
verted into vinegar, and the action of the acid thus obtained 
destroys the egg in a few weeks' time. 

If thick syrup be used, eggs may be kept a long time, 
but the expense of such a preservative renders it impracti- 
cable. 

AIR-PROOF AND HOT WATER PROCESSES. 

It is alleged by some persons that, by dipping eggs into 
hot water for a few seconds, the albumen and membrane 
which line the shell are coagulated — "the pores of the shell 
closed," and the egg thus canned in its own covering. 

We have made numerous experiments by dipping eggs 
into water of different degrees of heat ; but we find it uncer- 
tain and difficult to practically render eggs air-proof by this 
means. 

Among other experiments, we have immersed them in hot 
oil, lard, tallow, beeswax, liquid glue, common furniture 
varnish, damar, copal, and shellac varnishes, solutions of 
india rubber, gutta percha and gum arabic. 

We have applied these at various temperatures, from cold 
to boiling heat, at different seasons of the year, to perfectly 
fresh eggs, and to those one, two, and three weeks old; 



Fresh Jiggs and Jellow Butter. 25 

but most of these " air-proofing " methods leave an adhesive 
coating, which sticks fast to all substances with which the 
eggs come in contact while drying. 

In making our experiments, we have placed eggs on 
points or pegs to dry, so that but a small portion of the coat- 
ing would be abraded or broken; but we found the varnish, 
or gum coating, removed wherever they came in contact with 
the pegs, and these exposed points admitted sufficient air to 
render the process inoperative. 

When eggs which have been coated by many of the 
above substances are put into alkaline liquids, to preserve 
the shells in a fresh state, the varnishes, oils, etc., become 
more or less saponified, and the result is a coating of soap, 
which is far from being water-proof. Eggs thus treated 
will not keep in a fresh and marketable condition from 
spring and summer till winter, unless at a temperature below 
50° Fahr. 

Again : as the coating of these substances may be readily 
detected by the purchaser when the eggs are exposed for sale, 
they are therefore classed with preserved eggs, which renders 
this method decidedly objectionable, as well as unprofitable. 

HATCHING AIR-PEOOF EGGS. 
From repeated experiments, we find that exclusion of air 
from the egg does not destroy the embryo or prevent the egg 
from being hatched, but, on the contrary, preserves the animal 
life of the egg, provided it be strictly fresh when coated and 
subsequently kept at a moderately cool temperature ; it may 
be hatched a year afterward by the careful removal of the 
coating, and subjecting it to the required incubating heat. 



2() j^flESH ^GGS AND YeLLOW j3uTTER 

WHY CLOUDED EGGS USUALLY APPEAR CLEAR AFTER 
REMAINING IN LIME-WATER OR OTHER ALKALINE 
SOLUTIONS. 

It is well known that a strictly fresh egg presents a cer- 
tain dare-obscure or semi-opaque appearance, when held 
before a bright light, and that in a few days longer, according 
to its state of preservation, the egg, if then "candled," will 
present a turbid or clouded appearance. Such are properly stale 
eggs, which, although not unfit for cooking purposes, are 
in the first stages of change, and less liable to keep than 
strictly fresh eggs. 

This fact accounts for the disappointment of egg dealers 
upon opening a package of preserved eggs, when they find 
them in every condition, from cpiite fresh to very bad. 

It is also known to dealers in egg;s that when clouded 

o© 

or turbid eggs have been kept in lime or other alkaline solu- 
tions, they become clear and lighter in color in a few weeks' 
time. We will explain the cause of this, as we are frequently 
interrogated upon the subject. 

This change is due to the solvent effects of the alkaline 
fluids upon the semi-opaque membrane which lines the shell, 
and upon the albumen, which having become thick and 
more opaque by age, gives the egg that peculiarly turbid or 
clouded appearance when examined bcfoi'e a strong light. 
Such a light is necessary to show the "cloud" or "float," 
unless it is very large and dark. 

When eggs do not readily show this "cloud " or " float" 
and are immersed in lime-water, or other alkalies, for a few 
weeks, it becomes visible by the action of the alkalies. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 27 

WHY EGGS SOMETIMES CRACK WHEN IN EGG-PRESERVING 
SOLUTIONS, OR AFTER BEING REMOVED FROM THEM. 

If eggs are stale, and sour when put into the solution of 
an alkaline carbonate, it infiltrates through the porous shell, 
acting chemically upon the acid already generated in the 
eggs, and causes the evolution of carbonic acid gas, which for- 
cibly bursts the shells, although thick shells will frequently 
prove strong enough to confine the gas for sometime. 
Eggs may therefore crack when not in the putrid ferment- 
ation, and the apparent fullness, or excess of substance of the 
egg, is due to the mechanical retention of carbonic acid 
gas within it. 

Eggs in this condition, for the same reason, crack more 
readily upon being handled, although when strictly fresh 
or but slightly stale, if placed in an alkaline solution, they 
are not liable to be thus affected. 

HOW TO PREVENT PRESERVED EGGS FROM CRACKING WHEN 

BOILING. 

Prick the egg-shell, just before boiling, with a sharp 
point, or immerse the egg a short time in vinegar or diluted 
acetic acid, which will readily dissolve the carbonate of lime 
that fills the pores, and thus allow the hot air to escape. 

This deposit of carbonate of lime is much less firm than 
the shell itself, and is readily dissolved. However, should 
the egg be allowed to remain in the vinegar twenty-four 
hours, the entire shell will dissolve, leaving a tough mem- 
brane containing the contents of the egg. 

To prevent varnished or gummed eggs from cracking, 
puncture them with a sharp instrument. 



28 ^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 

WHY DO THE SHELLS OP PRESERVED EGGS CRACK WHEN 

BOILING ? 

This very common inquiry we will answer by an 
illustration : Put an egg that has not been preserved in hot 
water, and immediately air bubbles will be discovered rising 
to the surface of the water from the egg, caused by the action 
of the heat in expelling the internal air through the pores 
of the egg. 

When a limed or other preserved egg is placed in hot 
water, it usually cracks before it is cooked, because the 
pores of the shell are nearly filled with carbonate of lime, 
which being insoluble in water, partly obstructs the passage 
of the hot rarified air from escaping through the pores, as in the 
fresh egg. The confined air finds vent by bursting the shell. 

WHY FRESH EGGS SINK AND STALE EGGS FLOAT ON THE 
SURFACE OF WATER. 

The specific gravity of a fresh-laid egg is 1.085; water 
being 1.000. Hence a fresh egg readily sinks in water. 
When a stale egg has lost a sufficient portion of its contents 
by evaporation to swim on the surface of water, it should not 
be used for preserving, as eggs of this class are on the verge 
of putrefaction. 

STONE JARS FOR KEEPING EGGS. 

Eggs have also been kept in stone jars and crocks, in va- 
rious chemical solutions, as well as in dry packing, and gen- 
erally with better success than if kept in wood, as barrels, 
boxes, etc. This arises from the fact that the earthen or stone 
jars are generally placed on the ground in a cool place, and, 
the earth being colder, absorbs heat or caloric, and of 
course eggs will keep much cooler than if placed in wooden 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 29 

vessels, which, if not perfectly seasoned and clean, are liable 
to give out offensive emanations that are absorbed by the 
eggs. 

THE PHILOSOPHY OF KEEPING EGGS FRESH. 

It is proper at this time to communicate to our readers, 
as the result of our investigations, the interesting fact 
that neither acids, alkalies, nor any other chemical agents, 
by their own specific qualities, contribute to the preservation 
of the substance of the egg. 

This is the secret of so much disappointment in the 
use of " egg preservatives " now employed, which, when not 
positively prejudicial to the egg, have failed to meet the 
requirements of the egg dealer. 

But when such comparatively innocuous preparations are 
used, and the eggs are found to be preserved, it is simply 
owing to the result of checking the evaporation of their fluids, 
by keeping them at a comparatively low temperature, in either 
dry or liquid preparations that are bad conductors of heat. 

The great secret of preserving eggs consists in excluding 
everything abnormal to their health, and preventing the 
evaporation of their fluids ; or, in other words, protecting 
them from enemies without and the loss of vitality from 
within, by which means the eggs will remain in an unchanged 
condition for an unlimited time. 

Most egg dealers have not the conveniences for keeping 
eggs at a temperature below 50° Fahr., and it is well 
known that they will spoil more rapidly at the higher, 
and more slowly at the lower temperatures. At any tem- 
perature between 35° and 45° Fahr., they may be kept, un- 



30 ^pRESH ^GGS AND YELLOW fiuTTER. 

aided by artificial means, a long time without material 
change, as decomposition rarely takes place at a temperature 
below 50° Fahr. 

Therefore, to preserve eggs effectually for a long time, 
it is absolutely necessary to prevent either endosmosis of 
atmospheric oxygen, or of the vapors of substances abnor- 
mal to the egg, which would communicate to them flavor or 
odor ; or the exosmosis of any of their normal constituents? 
whether water, mineral salts, albuminoid, or oleaginous 
matters. 

The large end of an egg, when first laid, contains a 
cavity within the shell about the size of a small pea, which 
is filled with nearly pure oxygen. This cavity is increased 
with the age of the egg, by the evaporation of a portion of 
the water of the albumen through the porous shell, its place 
being supplied by atmospheric air. If the egg be kept 
at a temperature between 50° and 100° Fahr., it possesses all 
the conditions requisite to induce putrefaction — viz., heat, 
air and moisture. 

If fecundated eggs be kept at a temperature ranging from 
100° to 110° Fahr., the conditions arc favorable to the germ- 
ination and production of animal life, and if the heat be 
continued with but slight intermissions for twenty-one days, 
a chicken is produced. 

During incubation, or the hatching of eggs, they part with 
about one-sixth of their entire substance. Of this loss only 
five or six per cent, is water; the balance is the result of 
chemical decomposition, or probably of combustion, caused 
by the union of oxygen with carbon, producing carbonic 
acid, which escapes through the shell. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter 31 

If eggs, just laid, or within an hour afterward, are deoxy- 
genated by our process, as recommended in the following 
pages, they will remain in the same fresh condition in the 
equatorial or any other climate upon the face of the earth, 
however variable. 

At a temperature above 155° Fahr., the heat would 
coagulate the albumen. 

The commercial egg dealer cannot generally obtain eggs 
of this class, i. e., one hour old, and must necessarily take 
eggs which are from one day to two weeks old for the 
preserving process, at which age they have lost by evapora- 
tion a portion of their fluids, and have absorbed atmospheric 
oxygen to such an extent that they may be said to be in the 
incipient stage of organic dissolution; and in accordance 
with the established chemical law of nature, that when once 
the disorganizing process has begun it continues, unless 
arrested. In a few weeks the eggs are in a condition past 
recovery. 

To help the egg dealer out of this dilemma is one of the 
main objects of this work; and by adopting our deoxygenating 
process, which expels the accumulated atmospheric oxygen 
from the eggs to be preserved, (thus arresting and preventing 
further decomposition by the most simple and cheap methods, 
and preserving them in all their original freshness and 
natural appearance), the dealer will be enabled to realize all 
the advantages of dealing in sound and fresh eggs at all 
times. 

Both theory and practice confirm us as to the great 
importance of preventing the evaporation of the egs; fluid, 
and the absorption of gases or substances abnormal to the 



32 Fresh j^ggs and Yellow Butter. 

egg, and at the same time preserving the shell, with all its 
new and fresh appearance, intact from color or blemish. To 
accomplish this the eggs must be perfectly excluded from the 
atmosphere, which subjects them to oxydation and discolora- 
tion. 

We have already mentioned many of the materials in 
which eggs may be preserved, if kept at a temperature below 
50° Fahr., and which may answer well on a small scale ; but 
we have now to deal with a matter of more importance, and 
of a much more extensive and practical nature, than the 
keeping of a few dozens of eggs for family use. We allude 
to the wants of the grocer and commercial egg-dealer and 
packer, who are annually collecting many thousand dozens 
of eggs, and who must keep them, without failure, from 
spring and summer to winter. 

To meet the necessities of the egg dealer, who is re- 
quired to keep eggs in a fresh condition an unlimited time, 
has been one great object of our investigations for many 
years. 

We have considered, also, the disadvantages which many 
egg dealers labor under, in being unable to keep their eggs 
at even a moderately low temperature during the summer 
months, when eggs are generally the cheapest, and which is 
the most convenient season for preserving them. 

The atmosphere of their cellars or rooms ranges in tem- 
perature, during the summer months, scarcely ever so low as 
50°, but more frequently from 60° to 80° Fahr., and often 
higher, for many days successively. 



33 



NO. ONE (or Hot) PROCESS OF DEOXYGENATING AND 
INSULATING EGGS. 



We will now give the Best Process known for Keeping Eggs 
in a Fresh Condition for a long time, at a Reasonable Expense : 

Place the eggs in a wire basket, or other convenient, perforated ves- 
sel, and immerse them in pure Paraffin Wax, heated to about 200° 
Pahr. by a water-bath. 

The water-bath may be simply and easily arranged, by placing a large 
kettle with some water in it over a fire, and then putting into it a tin 
pail half -filled with Paraffin Wax. Heat the water in the kettle, which 
should be almost full, boiling hot, or nearly so ; when the wax in the 
pail is melted, and of the required temperature— about 200° Fahr. — it 
will be ready for the immersion of the eggs. 

The eggs, having been placed in the wire basket or perforated tin 
vessel, are now to be sunk in the pail of hot wax, so as to entirely 
cover them, and allowed to remain immersed two minutes. Then raise 
and lower the basket in the heated wax a few times, occupying a few 
seconds, so that the entire surface of the eggs may come in contact 
with and be covered by the wax. Finally, lift out the basket, and 
allow the eggs to cool. 

Instead of using the hot Paraffin Wax, the refined Paraffin Oil (see 
process ot refining) may be heated and used in the same manner as the 
wax, except that the eggs should not be allowed to remain longer in the 
hot oil than thirty seconds, which is a sufficient time to complete the pro- 
cess of deoxygenating. 

The reason the eggs are permitted to remain so much longer in the 
hot Paraffin Wax than in the hot oil is, that the eggs being cold when 
immersed in the hot wax, chill the wax which comes in immediate con- 
tact with them. The wax, being a bad conductor of heat, requires 
about one minute to re-melt it, and another minute is required to deox- 
ygenate the eggs; after which they must be immediately removed, in order 
to prevent partial cooking. 

LCopyright secured.] 



34 

Either Paraffin Wax or the refined Paraffin Oil may be used, as best 
suits the convenience of the packer. 

After the eggs are removed from the Paraffin Wax, or Oil, and 
allowed to cool at least half an hour, they may, at any subsequent time 
within a few days, be put into a barrel about half-filled with the Silicate 
of Soda Solution, which is prepared as follows, and which we denominate 

"THE NEW COLORLESS LIQUID PROCESS." 

Liquid Silicate of Soda, 30 c Baume 1 gallon. 

Cold Water 20 gallons. 

Stir continually for some time; then allow the mixture to stand two 
or three hours, giving it only an occasional stirring. 

This new colorless solution, which should be prepared in a barrel of 
the capacity of from forty-two to forty-five gallons, is now ready for 
use, and is sufficient to cover ab~>ut one hundred ami fifty dozen eggs. 

If more convenient, the eggs may be placed carefully in another suit- 
able barrel, of the same dimensions, and the preserving solution gently 
poured over them until the top-layer of eggs is covered to the depth of 
two or three inches. Or the eggs may be placed in the solution in the 
first barrel, in the same manner. A thin cotton cloth is now to be spread 
on the surface of the solution, and allowed to scftb- down upon the eggs. 
Finally, pour over all a quart of refined Paraffin Oil, and cover the 
barrel tightly with paper and a good board cover. 

The object of pouring the refined Paraffin Oil over the solution is, to 
prevent evaporation and the absorption of impurities by the solution 
from the atmosphere. 

Keep the barrel in a cool place, as in a cool cellar, where the ther- 
mometer ranges from 35° to 60° Pahr. The nearer the temperature 
approaches the first figures, the better; but freezing (which oocurs a 
little below 32° ) must be avoided. Although the solution cannot freeze 
until reduced in temperature to several degrees below the freezing point 
of water, eggs will freeze at about 32 ° Pahr. 

As has been previously stated, eggs placed in alkaline solutions are 
more or less affected by the alkali, which dissolves the albumen, thus 
rendering them "watery." 

Of all alkaline solutions employed to preserve eggs whether they are 
deoxygenated or not, preference must be given to the Silicate of Soda, 
which (in the case of eggs not deoxyg nated) combines with the carbon- 
ate of lime of the egg-shell, rendering it less porous, thus preventing 
the alkali from permeating it. It does not, however, wholly prevent 
endosmosis of alkaline fluids, or exosmosis of the substance of the egg, 
especially when the liquid is kept at a temperature above 50 c Fahr. 

[Copj'righi secured, i 



35 



In order to make the process perfect for preserving eggs, they should 
be (as we have before remarked) immersed in the hot Paraffin Wax, or 
hot Oil, before placing them in the Silicate of Soda Solution. 

The egg-shell is permeated by the hot wax, which entirely fills the 
pores, and thus hermetrically seals them. By this operation the shell is 
rendered impervious to air, water, or alkaline solutions. 

The egg is deoxygenated by immersion for a very short time in the 
heated wax or oil, which, by rarefaction, (the effect of heat), expels 
most of the atmospheric oxygen of the egg — an element well known to 
be the principal cause of decomposition in the egg, under favorable 
circumstances. 

"We have now given the best practical processes for preserving eggs. 
These are the results of many years' experiments, and by carefully fol- 
lowing our instructions, clean, fresh and wholesome eggs, at all seasons, 
may certainly be secured. 

Why is Paraffin Wax the best substance known in Chemistry 
for Deoxygenating and Insulating Eggs ? 

Because it is tasteless, inodorous, colorless, non-absorbent, and a non- 
conductor of heat. 

It is not in the least affected by air, cold water, alkalies, or acids. 

Therefore for insulating eggs it has no equal in the wide range of 
resins, oil, wax, gums, etc., at present known. 

Why is the refined Paraffin Oil the best solution known 
for Insulating Eggs by the Cold Process? 

This oil is possessed of properties similar, in many respects, to those 
of Paraffin Wax. It is the only oil proper to be used for immersing 
eggs preparatory to preserving them in alkaline solutions. 

Paraffin Oil is a vegetable oil mineralized, and is not saponified by 
weak alkaline solutions, as are the vegetable and animal oils and fats. 

When it is not convenient to use the hot deoxygenating and insulating 
process, the cold refined Paraffin Oil should be used for insulating the 
eggs. (See the cold insulating process, on page 37.) 

A High Degree of Heat for Deoxygenating Eggs. 

The Paraffin Wax, or refined Paraffin Oil, may be placed in a vessel 
directly on a stove, or over a fire, and heated to 400 c or 500 ° , at wlrch 
temperature the eggs may be immersed therein, and they will be deoxy- 
genated in much less time than when subjected to a heat of about 200° 
in a water-bath, as elsewhere recommended. 

But to successfully deoxygenate eggs at high temperatures of 400 ~ 

[Copyright secure !.] 



36 

or 500° requires experience and the use of a thermometer suitable for 
the purpose, as the whites of eggs will cook in a few seconds at 500 ° . 
Further, the process is attended with the danger of igniting the hot oil 
or wax at these high temperatures, and is consequently objectionable. 

We therefore strenuously recommend the use of the water-bath, in 
which water can only be heated to 212 c Fahr. (the boiling point) ; and 
liquids set in a water-bath cannot be heated above 207 ° Fahr. Hence 
no thermometer is needed for a water-bath when about this temperature 
is required. 

[Note. — Only the true, or genuine, silicate of soda should be used for 
the preservation of eggs. For the process of its manufacture and pro- 
perties, the reader is referred to page 227, and for its market price, to 
the last page.] 

[Copyright secured.] 



Fresh F-ggs and Yellow Butter 37 

PRESERVING EGGS BY THE COLD INSULATING PROCESS. 

Place the eggs in a wire basket, or other convenient 
perforated vessel, and immerse them in refined paraffin oil of 
a temperature between 70° and 80° Fahr. Let them remain 
in the oil about five minutes, raising and lowering the basket 
a few times, that the surface of the eggs may be completely 
covered with the oil. They should then be removed and 
put into the New Colorless Solution, within a day or two, or 
at once, if preferred. 

A better plan is to fill a barrel half-full of refined par- 
affin oil ; then fill the barrel with eggs as long as the oil 
will cover them, and allow the oil to remain at least five 
minutes ; but we prefer to let it remain two or three 
hours. Then draw it off by means of a faucet at the lower 
end of the barrel. 

Let the eggs remain undisturbed twenty-four hours, so 
that the oil may become partly dried on the shell. Then 
fill up the barrel with the new colorless solution, so as to 
cover the eggs to a depth of two inches above the top layer, 
and whatever oil is left in the barrel will rise to the surface 
of the solution. There should be, in all, about one quart of 
oil on the surface, to prevent evaporation, chemical change 
and the absorption of impurities and gases from the atmos- 
phere. 

The barrel should be covered with paper and a board 
cover. 

Keep the barrel in a cellar where the temperature is below 
60° Fahr., and in a year after you may expect to find the 
eggs in as sweet a condition as when put into the barrel. 
3 



38 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow j^utter. 

This process for preserving the ordinary eggs of com- 
merce is probably the best for a cold process that has been 
discovered. 

[Note. — One or two hours before putting the eggs in the new color- 
less solution, add fifteen or twenty pounds of ice, broken up in small 
pieces, to half a barrel of the solution, and as soon as it is dissolved, 
and when the temperature is about 40°, pour it on the eggs, and if the 
barrel is insulated, closely covered as directed, and kept in a cool cellar, 
the temperature of the solution will remain below 50° Fahr. for weeks, or 
even months.] 

By adding ice to all lime mixtures, or solutions, 
before putting in the eggs, as above directed, to reduce the 
temperature to about 40° Fahr., eggs will keep in a fresh 
condition a much longer time. 

Especial attention is called to the fact that eggs will 
remain fresh in the new colorless solution, even if they are 
not coated or insulated with oils, etc., provided that the 
temperature of the solution is kept below 55° Fahr. And 
it is greatly to be preferred to the lime mixtures as a 
preservative. 

INSULATING EGGS WITH THE REFINED RESINOUS LINSEED 
OIL FOE DRY PACKING. 

Eggs, if designed for dry packing, must be insulated 
with the refined resinous linseed oil, at a temperature of 
from 50° to 70°, by immersing them for a few minutes, or 
they may remain in the oil twenty-four hours without detri- 
ment. They must then be taken from the barrel and dried 
in the open air for two or three days. Or eggs may be 
deoxygenated and insulated for dry packing by the use of the 
refined resinous linseed oil, at the temperature recommended 
for the deoxygenating process on page 33. 



•pRESH ^GGS AND JELLOW BUTTER 39 

The eggs are then to be packed in the No. 1 dry com- 
pound (see pages 16 and 17), or in old, dry oats, and kept in 
a cool, dry place. Fresh eggs thus prepared will remain in 
a good condition for a long time. 

A COLD PROCESS FOR .DEOXYGENATING EGGS BY SUBSTI- 
TUTING CARBONIC ACID GAS FOR THE ATMOSPHERIC 
OXYGEN WHICH IS EXPELLED, EITHER BY RAREFAC- 
TION (AS DIRECTED BY THE NUMBER ONE PROCESS), 
OR EXTRACTED BY MEANS OF AN AIR-PUMP. 

Fill a substantial barrel, prepared by the insulating 
process, with fresh eggs, tightly close it (by fastening 
the head with screws), and then cover it all over with the 
insulating composition. Exhaust the air from the barrel by 
means of an air-pump. As a vacuum is produced, the air 
in the cavity at the large end of the egg will escape, together 
with a portion of the air in the substance of the egg. When 
a moderately good vacuum is secured, carbonic acid gas 
must be slowly admitted from a suitably charged reservoir, 
which must have been previously connected with the barrel 
of eggs. Great care must be exercised to slowly admit the 
carbonic acid gas, which can be done best by means of a 
stop-cock, in corresponding quantity with the amount of air 
extracted, as the egg-shells might otherwise be broken by a 
too great and sudden pressure of the gas, especially over the 
cavity at the large end of the egg. By this process, if prop- 
erly performed, the eggs become filled with an inert gas, 
which must be retained by a substantial and impervious 
covering. 

Let the eggs remain at least twenty-four hours in this 
carbonic acid gas. Then inject refined paraffin oil into the 



40 Fresh Jiggs and Yellow jButter. 

barrel until it is full, allowing the gas to escape from the 
top. Permit the eggs to remain in the oil twenty-four hours, 
when they may be removed, or the oil may be drawn off by 
a faucet. 

Within one hour after the oil is drawn off, fill up the 
barrel with the new colorless solution, which should be cooled 
with ice to 40°, just before pouring it upon the eggs, (as 
directed in the cold insulating process). When filling up 
the barrel containing the eggs, carefully pour in the new 
colorless solution, so that the oil will not be washed from the 
eggs. After the barrel is full, plug and seal up the apertures 
made for the faucets, etc. Keep the barrel hermetrically 
sealed and in a cool place until required for use. 

Eggs, after being deoxygenated and charged with car- 
bonic acid gas, if desired for dry packing, must be imme- 
diately insulated with the refined resinous linseed oil, (instead 
of refined paraffin oil,) at a temperature between 50° and 70°. 
Let the eggs remain in the oil for twenty-four hours ; then 
remove and dry them in the open air for two or three days. 
They are then to be packed in the No. 1 dry compound, or 
old, dry oats, and kept in a cool, dry place. 

If fresh eggs are used in this process, they will remain 
in a fresh condition for an unlimited time. 

It should be borne in mind that eggs, after being charged 
with carbonic acid gas, must not be immersed in hot oils or 
other hot 'preparations to obtain a coating, as the heat will 
expel a portion, if not all, of the carbonic acid gas, which 
would vitiate the result. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 41 

WHY DEOXYGENATED EGGS SHOULD BE KEPT IN SOLU- 
TIONS. 

After being deoxygenated by our process, which hermetri- 
cally seals or closes the pores of their shells, the question will 
doubtless arise : Why is it necessary to put eggs in the cold 
silicate of soda solution ? 

Our answer is, first, to prevent an accumulation of dust 
on the shells, which would give them the appearance of age, 
and, secondly, to keep the eggs at a more even and lower 
temperature, as the liquids are not readily affected by slight 
atmospheric changes. Otherwise, if the eggs are exposed in 
boxes and barrels, without any other protection, and as some 
of the eggs may be several days old and contain a large 
quantity of atmospheric oxygen that has not been wholly 
expelled, but sufficiently deoxygenated for their preservation 
if kept at a moderately low and uniform temperature, an 
immersion in this solution will render them less liable to 
change. 

To illustrate : The cellar where the eggs are kept is 50° 
Fahr. in the morning ; at noon the temperature is increased 
to 70° or 80° ; while at night it is down again to 50°. If 
the eggs are not protected by some non-conducting substance, 
many of them not being fresh, they will become affected by 
these atmospheric changes. If they are in the solution, 
however, they will be but slightly affected by these changes 
of temperature. If the solution be kept in the prepared or 
insulated barrels (see method of thus preparing barrels), it 
will require a long continued summer heat to affect its tem- 
perature. 



42 Fhesh Eggs and Jello-w Butter. 

WHY THE SILICATE OF SODA SOLUTION IS PREFERABLE TO 
LIME-WATER FOR MERCHANTABLE EGGS. 

The question may be asked, why lime-water will not 
answer, in place of the silicate of soda solution, in which to 
keep eggs after they are deoxygenated. 

Answer: Because lime-water is constantly depositing 
the carbonate of lime, which settles on the eggs and, partially 
adhering to their surface, gives a roughness to their shells, 
causing the appearance of limed eggs. Such when offered for 
sale will not bring so high a price as those having the appear- 
ance of fresh eggs. But for family use, the rough appearance 
of the shell being no objection, the deoxygenated eggs may 
be preserved quite as well in lime-water or lime mixture as 
in the silicate of soda solution. 

TO RENDER EGGS LESS LIABLE TO BREAK, AND THEREBY 
INCREASE THEIR DURABILITY AND VALUE. 

Additional strength and durability are imparted to the egg- 
shell by the insulating process, which renders it much less 
liable to break when handled, or during transportation. 

WHY DO LIMED EGGS SOON SPOIL AFTER BEING REMOVED 
FROM A LIME SOLUTION ? 

Because they are generally exposed to a higher range of 
temperature after being removed from the solution, which 
accelerates decomposition. Eggs with very thick shells are 
generally the last to spoil. The deposit of carbonate of lime 
from lime-water upon the shell of the egg does not entirely 
prevent the endosmosis of atmospheric oxygen affecting the 
e^ir substance. Strictly fresh etrgs put into lime solutions 
will keep longer than if they were stale when immersed. 



Fresh F.ggs and Yellow Butter. 43 

Stale eggs, with thin shells, will keep but a short time 
after being removed from a lime solution, unless kept at a 
low temperature, because they are in the incipient stage of 
decomposition, as all eggs are, unless preserved in their 
original freshness, or less than one day old. 

Therefore, the reason why some limed eggs will keep for 
weeks, or in some cases months, after being taken out of a 
lime solution, is the fact of their original freshness when put 
into the solution, and their possessing thick, compact shells, 
which receive a deposit of carbonate of lime, rendering them 
still less porous, and consequently much less liable to suffer 
from the evaporation of their fluids and the absorption of 
atmospheric oxygen. 

EGGS KEPT FRESH BY COLD. 

Decomposition cannot take place in eggs, or other animal 
substances, when kept at a temperature below 45°; therefore, 
if eggs be placed in an ice-house, refrigerator, or other cool 
place, at a temperature of from 35° to 45° Fahr., they will 
not spoil. Eggs should be packed, for convenience, in barrels 
containing powdered charcoal or dry oats, or other bad con- 
ductors of heat, which will keep them perfectly sweet by 
guarding them against atmospheric changes and impure or 
noxious vapors. 

The eggs, when packed, should be placed on eud, and 
when the barrel is headed up it should be turned on its 
opposite head as often as once in every fourteen days, thus 
changing the position of the eggs, to prevent the yelks from 
coming in contact with the shells, which is sometimes liable 
to occur. But this is not a practical method for egg dealers in 



44 J^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW J3UTTER 

general, on account of the difficulty in getting so low a 
temperature. 

We have now given our readers the best practical pro- 
cesses, and if they are careful in following our instructions, 
which are the results of years of research and experiment, 
they may depend upon having fresh and wholesome eggs 
throughout all seasons of the year. 

ANATOMY OF THE EGG — WHY THE YELK OF A FRESH 

EGG SETTLES AGAINST THE SHELL, AND THE 

EGG SOON AFTER SPOILS. 

In considering the anatomy of the egg, we will commence 
with the exterior and proceed inward. 

First — We find the egg-shell [testa ovi, or putamen ovi), 
and lining its internal surface is found the chorion (mem- 
brana putaminis), a white, semi-opaque membrane consisting 
of two layers, which, by their separation at the large 
end of the egg, form a cavity filled with nearly pure 
oxygen. This vacuity is caused by the condensation of the 
egg substance and the entrance of air during the process of 
cooling at the time it is laid. When the egg is fecundated, 
this bubble of oxygen serves as a respiratory reservoir for 
the prospective chick. 

Immediately within and adjoining the chorion, yet de- 
tached from that membrane, is found the allantoid membrane 
enveloping the albumen ovi. The office of the allantoid, 
which is a very delicate, transparent membrane, is to hold 
the fluid contents of the white intact, when the egg-shell and 
chorion are removed. 

Next in order is found the albumen ovi, a colorless, trans- 



Fresh J£ggs and Jellow Butter. 45 

parent, glutinous liquid, inodorous and tasteless, inclosed in 
delicate membranous cells. 

The partitionaiy substance that constitutes these cells is 
the delicate membrane oonin (its office is similar to that of 
the honey-comb), which prevents the albumen from rapidly 
spreading when the allantoid is ruptured. When one or 
several cells are broken, the oonin partition holds the white 
of the egg in the remaining cells in statu quo. The labor 
required to " beat up " the white of eggs is owing to the 
toughness of the allantoid and oonin membranes. 

When they are fully disintegrated, either by mechanical 
force, or by decomposition from the effects of lime-water, or age, 
the white of the egg flows readily, and is called "ivatery." 

Between the white and yelk of the egg is found the 
amnion membrane, which surrounds the yelk (vitellus ovi), sub- 
serving the same purpose as the allantoid, which envelops 
the albumen. 

Attached to opposite points on the circumference of the 
amnion membrane are the chalazos, consisting of two white, 
spiral, knotty and tenacious membranous bodies, which 
extend in opposite directions through the albumen, and are 
attached to the allantoid membrane at each end of the egg, 
for the purpose of supporting the yelk in the central part of 
the albumen. But when the allantoid and oonin membranes 
are destroyed by the causes above stated, or by shaking an 
egg violently, the connexion of these membranes is broken, 
and the yelk gravitates to the lowest part of the egg, finally 
resting upon the shell. As the specific gravity of the 
yelk is greater than that of the albumen, it settles in accord- 
ance with the laws of gravity. 



46 J^RESH pGGS AND YELLOW JSUTTER. 

Hence the yelk of a fresh egg does not settle (except 
from agitation sufficient to break the allantoid, ooniri and 
chalazce) ; while that of a stale egg does, owing to the decom- 
position of these membranes. 

When the yelk rests on the shell, it no longer has albumen 
for its protection, and being of a highly susceptible nature, 
rapidly absorbs oxygen, which soon causes its destruction. 

But eggs which have been deoxygenated and insulated are 
not liable to spoil, even after violent agitation has ruptured 
the membranes so that the yelk settles and rests on the 
shell, as no oxygen can be absorbed by an insulated egg. 

The yelk is a thick, opaque, golden-yellow fluid, 
inodorous, and of a bland, oily taste. On the yelk is a 
small white spot, known as the cicatricula, surrounded by 
whitish concentric rings. The cicatricula is the germinating 
or embryonic point of the fetal chicken. A duct extends 
from this germ vesicle to the centre of the yelk, which 
contains a whitish, granular substance, designed by nature 
for the support of the chick during its first stages of 
development. 

THE SIZE AND WEIGHT OF EGGS. 

Among other facts of interest to the dealer, and especially 
to the consumer of eggs, are the following, concerning their 
size and weight : Those laid by the common barn-yard hen 
have diameters two and a half inches in length, by one and 
three-quarter inches in width, and an average weight of one 
and three-fourth ounces. The yelk constitutes about two- 
fifths of the whole substance, the albumen forming the 
remainder. Eight of these eggs ordinarily weigh one pound. 



jpRESH pGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 47 

SALT WATER A TEST FOR FRESH EGGS. 

Dissolve ten ounces of common salt in one gallon of cold 
water. 

Place eggs that candle clear in this solution, and if 
perfectly fresh, they will gradually sink, but if slightly stale, 
they will swim. 

All eggs that sink in this solution, the specific gravity 
of which is about 1.065, may be classed as fresh eggs, which 
have lost but a small portion of their fluids by evaporation 
and are quite suitable for preserving. 

Eggs that will swim in salt water, of the strength of 8 oz. 
of salt to 1 gallon of water, must never be used for pre- 
serving. Eggs which have passed the test of salt water 
must be rinsed in fresh water and dried before deoxygenating 
or insulating them. 

Twelve ounces of salt _ dissolved in one gallon of water 
form a solution (specific gravity 1.091), sufficiently strong 
to float a perfectly fresh egg. One gallon of cold water dis- 
solves only three pounds of salt, making a saturated solution 
of the specific gravity of 1.210. Boiling increases its solu- 
bility but very little. 

WHAT CLASS OF EGGS TO SELECT, AND THE BEST SEASON 
FOR PRESERVING THEM. 

It is well known to most persons who are engaged in the 
egg business that eggs are liable, from their susceptible nature, 
to absorb the flavors of many substances with which they 
may be kept in contact. Hence it is highly important that 
no preserving agent should be used which will impart any 
flavor or taste of a nature foreign to them. 



48 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 

In order to get strictly fresh eggs, they must be removed 
from the nests the same day they are laid, and put up imme- 
diately. This cannot be done on a large scale, as dealers 
in eggs usually purchase them of farmers who bring to 
market eggs from one day to two or three weeks old, on some 
of which the hens have set for a day or two, or longer, and 
thus many of them are stale. 

At all times, and particularly during the hot summer 
months, great care should be taken to reject all musty or 
stale eggs. Eggs gathered in hot weather from damp, out- 
door nests, or that have remained under a lien for a day 
or two, or if placed in musty grain, bran, cellar-earth, 
sawdust, shavings, or other substances which readily impart 
an unpleasant flavor, are liable to be more or less impreg- 
nated with the flavor of such articles, and are unfit to pack, 
though they may look clear when held before a candle. 

If eggs are packed in fresh pine sawdust for a day or two, 
they will be flavored with turpentine; if packed in oak saw- 
dust, they will be stained of a brown color, and are liable to 
become sour. 

The best time to put up eggs is in March, April, or 
May, and again during the months of September, October 
and November. During the hot summer months, unless 
great care is taken by the farmer in gathering fresh eggs 
every day, they are liable to become musty. Although the 
farmer may gather and preserve eggs during all seasons of the 
year, it is not safe for persons in cities to buy eggs for pre- 
serving during the hot summer months. Such eggs are 
usually several days or weeks old, and, having been handled 
and exposed to more or less heat, they are liable to be dam- 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 49 

aged, and if put into a preserving solution when in a musty 
or spoiled state, their condition will not be improved. 

Therefore, eggs which, though not strictly fresh, will bear 
inspection when candled, and have not been exposed to flavors 
or odors so as to affect them, form the class which is commonly 
used for preserving. 

It is therefore, an object of importance to find a remedy 
for this class of eggs, which, to accommodate the egg dealers, 
must be kept on hand at a temperature from 50° to 80° Fahr. 

TESTING AND PREPARING EGGS FOR THE PRESERVING 

PROCESS. 

Wash the soiled eggs. Candle all the eggs carefully, re- 
jecting those which have dark and floating spots, or that have 
a cloudy appearance, and all that are in the least cracked. 
Put down only those that candle perfectly clear. Reject all 
that swim in the water, even if they appear clear when held 
before a candle, as such are old eggs. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR PACKING AND SHIPPING EGGS. 

In hot weather, eggs should always be shipped in old, dry, 
sweet oats, or coarsely powdered charcoal. In cool weather, 
cut rye and wheat straw will answer. Never use oat or buck- 
wheat straw, sawdust or shavings. When packing eggs for 
shipment, allow at least one-half or three-quarters of an inch 
of packing material between the eggs and the barrels; also 
about one-quarter of one inch between the eggs, and about 
one and one-half inches between each layer. Do not put 
over 70 dozen into a flour barrel. There should be about 
two inches of packing material between the eggs and each 
head of the barrel. After each two or three layers are put 



50 J^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW j^UTTER 

in, they should be well settled by using a heavy plank fol- 
lower, and shaking the barrel until well settled. 

When heading the barrel, great caution should be used 
in having the head press firmly on the packing material, so 
that the eggs cannot work loose in the barrel by handling, 
and yet not be so tight as to break them. 

GENERAL REMARKS CONCERNING EGGS IN PRESERVING 
SOLUTIONS. 

When eggs are taken out of preserving solutions, the best 
plan to wash them is to put them into slotted boxes, and 
upon every layer or two pour cold water, and then let them 
become perfectly dry before packing. 

Eggs should never be shipped in liquids, but should 
be taken out of preserving solutions and packed as directed. 

Great care should be used in handling packages contain- 
ing eggs in preserving solutions, as the eggs are very liable 
to break. 

As a general rule, preserving solutions will not answer for 
use the second year. 

Eggs should be kept in preserving solutions until they 
are required for use or for market. 

Eggs, broken in barrels or vats, while in preserving solu- 
tions, generally spoil soon, and impair the preserving quali- 
ties of the solution. Whenever this happens, remove the 
unbroken eggs, wash them in cold water, cleanse the vessel 
and put the eggs into a new solution. 

As ordinary barrels or vats are liable to leak, they 
should be examined every two weeks. In case of leakage, 
they must be supplied with additional preserving solution. 



Fresh Eggs and Jellow Butter. 51 

But if barrels or vats are prepared according to our pro- 
cess for preparing kerosene oil and other barrels and vats, all 
danger of leakage will be avoided. 

Do not put egg-preserving solutions in vessels of iron, 
copper, tin, zinc, or other metal, as the chemical action of 
the metals upon the solutions is injurious. 

THE SEX OF EGGS. 

A series of experiments by an experienced poulterer in 
the egg-hatching business has determined, as a general rule, 
the following results : 

Eggs containing the germ of males have wrinkles on the 
small ends; on the contrary, eggs which are smooth at the 
extremities, and nearest to roundness, produce females, while 
those pointed at one end usually engender males. 

The above may be of some importance to those engaged 
in raising poultry. 

INCUBATION. 

The time required for hatching eggs when placed under 
fowls, or by any artificial heat, to-wit : 

Hens' Eggs, 21 days. 

Turkeys' Eggs, 28 " 

Ducks' Eggs, 29 " 

Geese Eggs, 30 " 

A NEW-LAID EGG. 

The large end of a new-laid egg feels cold when placed 
against the tongue, but that of a stale egg feels warm, because 
the white of a fresh egg being in contact with (he shell acts 
as a conductor in abstracting heat from the tongue more 
readily than the non-conducting air bubble or cavity in the 
stale egg. 



52 -pRESH JiGGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER 

EGGS. 

Few persons understand the magnitude of the egg trade 
of New York city. The receipts for nine months of 1869 
averaged at least one thousand barrels per day. A barrel 
contains about 80 dozen, or 960 eggs ; the aggregate, there- 
fore, was in one day nearly a million. 

Like cotton and corn, they are considered a cash article, 
and can be sold immediately. 

One thousand barrels of eggs, at an average price of 30 
cents per dozen, amounts to $24,000 per day, or $8,790,000 
per annum. 

IMPORTANT STATISTICS FOR THE YEAR 1869. 

In compiling the annexed table, we are respectfully 
obliged to the Hon. Secretaries and other public officers of 
the various States ; also to the Hon. Horace Capron, Com- 
missioner of the Department of Agriculture, Washington, 
D. C, and to the various journals of agriculture and commerce 
throughout the United States, for the statistics herein set 
forth. 



Fresh F.ggs and Yellow Butter 



53 



STATISTICS FOR THE YEAR 1869. 

The following table shows that the total value of eggs 
produced in the United States exceeds fifty millions of 
dollars per annum : 

TOTAL POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES AND TERRITORIES: 

1869 37,139,513 

1860 31,443,790 

Increase in nine years 5,695,723 



STATES AND TERRITORIES. 



Popula- 
tion. 



No. | No. 
Famil's Farms, 



Mo. doz. 
Eggs per 
; Annum. 



Alabama 

Arkansas 

California 

Connecticut 

Delaware 

Florida 

lieorgia 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Iowa 

Kansas 

Kentucky 

Louisiana 

Maine 

Maryland 

Massachusetts 

ftl ichigan 

Minnesota 

Mississippi 

Missouri 

Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming 

Territories 

Ne w Hampshire 

New Jersey 

New iork 

ISorth Carolina 

Ohio 

Oregun 

Pennsylvania 

Knode isla ,d 

bouth Carolina 

Tr nnessee 

Texas 

Ve> mont 

Virginia 

West Virginia 

Wisconsin 

Di^iri ji of Columbia 

.Dakota Territory 

Nebraska 

Nevada .[..'. 

JNcw Mexico, Arizona and Indian 

Territories 

TJt h Tciri tory 

Washington Territory. ........... 

*Colorauo l\ rritory 

*Kussian America 



987,461 

472,166 
554,112! 

486,136 

li0,448 

146,330 

1,110,076 

i,178,766 

1,950,112 

1)02,04(1: 

180,478 
1,100,31:0! 

918,117 

029,104! 
704,891 

1,281,700 
986,724 
386,478 
847,213 

1,556,187 

:.2,112 

330,127 

081,49:[ 

4,b85,58U 

1,200,316' 

2,905,463 

121,53-t; 

3,2 7,420! 

178,«J1 

780,41o! 

1,106,141 

894,141 

315,610 

1,330,588 

871,891 

855,061 

86,1* 

9,312, 

78,187 

108,496 



141,131 

71,111 

73,114 

76,581 

18,117 

20,113 

169,112 

378,882 

325,118 

180,408 

30,570 

190.1U 

14i,10i 

103,648 

117,481 

256.9J0 

lo 1,454 

03,583 

1> 1,1b9 

261,198 

5,004 

65,oo., 
113,582 
780,931 
167,118 
484,242 

10,851 
544,663 

*23,ol<i 
120,171 
163,050 
110,(14 

58,07b 
221,731. 

40,46(. 

171,011 

7,43a 

1,127 

3,710 

12,891 



56,131) 
41,068 
27,114 
25,31- 
6,710 
7,134 
62,144 

190,520 

142,786 
82,596 
18,690 
91,710 
17,148 
50,110 

108,49o 
36,194 
79,511 
!><8,14s' 
42,113: 

108,496 

850, 
31,101 

28,004 

242,807 

75,364' 

188,909! 

8,968 

17o,l0. 

5,438 

33,241 

83,14-1 

45,19 

31,578 

77,21i 

17,113 

78,892i 

233 

690' 

6,481 

1,008. 



5,414,001 
3,147,000 
3,848,000 
2,331,000 

848,000 

600,i '00 

4.210,000 

22,648,01 

17,7h7,000 

10,808,000 

2,400,000 

8,480,000 

l,41u,00l 

7,00 ,000 

12,478,001 

5,001,001 

9,766,001 

2,400,000 

2,100,000 

9,890,000 

1,000 

4,896,000 

4.1)05,410 

28,749,001 

4,111.000 

21,875,000 

l)JO,0Ot 

20,445,' 00 

700,500 

3,014,000 

7,4 14,300 

4,667,401 

4,157 600 

6,l5i),li. 

1,64 ,1(1 

8,958,201 

13.001 

15,601 

600,451 

100,60G 



Av'age Price 

20 centi 
per do^en. 



148,619; 11,867 
81,496; 7,112 
31,461' 4,010 

61,181 

55,780 



8,896; 85S 000 
9,786 1,040,001 
3,672! 100,601. 



$i,('82.son.no 

0211,400.00 

769,600.00 

466,200.00 

109,600.00 

1211,000.00 

842,000.00 

4,529,600.00 

3,553 400.00 

2,179,600.00 

4811.000.00 

1.697,200.00 
281,0 10.00 

1,521,000.00 

2,49 .eou.oo 

1.000,200 00 
1,953,101.00 

4Si 1,000. co 

4' 0,000. 00 

1,978,000.00 

200.00 
979,200.00 
981,082.00 

5,749,800.00 
883,800.00 

4,375,000.00 
189,000.00 

4,08i',000.00 

140,010.00 

6' 2,8 0.00 

1,192,860.00 

013,480.00 

831,520 00 

1.230 020.00 

3 >, 020. 00 

1,791.640.00 

2 600.00 

3, '20.0:1 

12:i.0'.lo.00 

20,120.00 

171,600.00 
208.000.00 
20,120.00 



Aggregate. 



37,139,513.6,074,25b 2. 3 71.,S94 258,507,860, 851,701,572x0 



* The statistics of families, farms and eggs not received from Colorado and Russian America. 



54 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow j3utter. 

A French statistician estimates the total value of eggs 
annually produced in France at fifty-seven millions of dollars. 

The total value of eggs annually produced on the globe 
is estimated at five hundred and fifty millions of dollars. 
EGG— Ovum. 

The following is a perfect chemical analysis of the egg of 
the common hen, (Phasanius Gallus), which is supposed to 
have been originally the jungle fowl of India. It is now 
domesticated in nearly all parts of the globe. 

The earff consists of an external covering, known as the 

shell, (testa ovi, or putamen ovi), which is composed of — 

Carbonate of Lime, 86.0 parts. 

Animal Substance 3.5 " 

Phosphate of Lime 1.3 " 

Carbonate of Magnesia 0.9 " 

Oxide of Iron 0.7 " 

Sulphur 1.7 " 

Gelatin 2.9 " 

Water 3.0 " 

Total 100 

The shell, when exposed to an intense heat in the crucible, 

is deprived of its carbonic acid, while the other substances 

are either rendered inert or dissipated, leaving a residuum 

of nearly pure oxide of calcium. Lining the internal surface 

of the shell is the membrana putaminis, a white semi-opaque 

membrane, composed of — 

Albumen 29.1 parts. 

Gluten 36.0 « 

Tannin 9.3 « 

Gelatin 14.6 " 

Water 11.0 " 

Total 100 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 55 

This lining envelopes a substance known as the white, 
(albumen ovl), a colorless, transparent, glutinous liquid, inclosed 
in delicate membranous cells, inodorous and tasteless. Its 
composition is — 

Pure Albumen 13.0 parts. 

Chloride of Sodium 0.2 " 

Soda 0.5 " 

Gluten 1.2 " 

Sulphur 0.1 " 

Water 85.0 " 

Total 100 

The white is soluble in water and alkaline solutions, 
coagulable by alcohol, strong acids, and by a heat of 156°F., 
and can be precipitated by chloride of gold, tannin, chloride 
of tin, corrosive sublimate, sub-acetate of lead, and sulphate 
of copper. Coagulation renders it insoluble. 

Passing through the white to the central portion of the 
egg, is found the yelk (vitellus ovi), a thick, opaque, golden - 
yellow fluid, inodorous, of a bland, oily taste, and by agita- 
tion with water it forms an opaque emulsion. Its chemical 
composition is — 

Vitellin, a peculiar albuminous principle 15.760 

Margarin and Olein 21.304 

( 'holesterine 938 

Oleic Acid, Margaric Acid 5.462 

Muriate of Ammonia 2.204 

Phosphoglyceric Acid 034 

Phosphates of Lime and Magnesia 200 

Chlorides of Sodium & Potassium — Sulphate of Potassa 1.022 

Gelatin 277 

Sulphur 553 

Oxide of Iron, Lactic Acid and Animal Extract 400 

Water 51.846 

Total 100.000 



58 ^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW J3UTTER 

Yelk of eggs is concrescible by heat, and becomes solid by- 
boiling. It is employed as a medium for uniting resins and 
oils with water. 

The white of eggs is useful as a demulcent in diseases of 
the intestinal mucous membrane, and as an antidote to 
corrosive sublimate and the soluble salts of copper, with 
which it forms insoluble and comparatively inert compounds. 

Exposed in thin layers to a current of air, it becomes 
solid, retaining its transparency and solubility in water, and 
can be thus preserved a long time without change; in this 
state it may be applied in a state of solution to the same pur- 
pose as in its original condition. It soon putrefies in the 
fluid state, unless kept at a temperature below 50° Fahr., or 
deoxygenated and permitted to remain in its natural condition. 

CLARIFICATION. 

The white of the egg is used for the clarification of 
syrups, infusion of coffee and other liquids, which it accom- 
plishes by undergoing coagulation, enveloping suspended 
impurities and undissolved particles in its flakes, and rising 
with them to the surface, or settling to the bottom. 

ALBUMEN. 

This substance, found nearly pure in the white of eggs, 
from which it derives its name, .is also found in the serum of 
the blood, and in many animal and vegetable substances. 

It exists in two conditions, solid and liquid — liquid 
in the white of eggs, humors of the eye and serum of the 
blood; solid, in the brain and nerves of animals, and in 
the seeds of plants. As found in the white of eggs, it 
is colorless, tasteless, odorless and soluble in alkaline solu- 



j^RESH ^GGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER 57 

tions. It is precipitated from all of its solutions by alcohol, 
and by heat, which coagulates it, after which it is not 
again soluble in water. Like all other nitrogenized animal 
substances, it is very prone to decomposition. Being 
capable of changing in the blood into fibrin, which again 
becomes musculin, (the substance of muscles'), albumen is 
justly esteemed by physiologists a most perfect article of 
food. Indeed, the value of meats and vegetables is largely 
estimated by the amount of albumen present. This accounts 
for the well-known fact that eggs may well be substituted 
for meats. 

DESICCATED EGGS. 

Break a number of fresh eggs into an evaporating vessel, 
and expose them to a heat of 125° Fahr., over a water-bath, 
with occasional stirring until dry. Then pack them in air- 
tight vessels. When thus dried, the residue presents a bright 
orange color. When required for use, one part of dried egg 
should be well beaten with three times its weight of water. 

Desiccated eggs may be used for making puddings, cus- 
tards, etc. 

DOES THE ANIMAL WARMTH OR GERMINATING HEAT 
RETARD OR PROMOTE THE DECOMPOSITION OF EGGS? 

This is a subject of controversy among chemists. It is 
claimed by some that it is absolutely necessary to destroy 
the life of the germ in order to preserve the egg. Wherefore 
they recommend, for that purpose, agents which will not ren- 
der the egg distasteful or injurious as an article of food. 
Others contend that instead of destroying the germ of the 
egg, it is only necessary to suspend its animal life. 



58 Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter 

When we reflect that the absorption by the egg of alkalies 
or acids destroys the life of the germ, and that when the 
egg is deprived of its vitality decomposition is the result, 
we see that the retention of the vital principle tends to 
its preservation. An egg never decomposes so long as it has 
life. Our processes, which are based upon this correct and 
truly philosophical theory, avoid the immediate contact with 
the egg of those destructive agents which are used to aid in 
the protection of the egg against the various influences of 
atmospheric gases, vapors and dust. After a lapse of twelve 
months, or longer, eggs preserved by our processes retain all 
their pristine beauty and freshness. 

BARREN EGGS, OR EGGS WHICH ARE NOT FECUNDATED, 
ARE BEST FOR PRESERVING. 
The hen at certain periods prepares a batch of eggs which, 
when sufficiently matured, she "lays," whether they are 
fecundated, or not, by the male bird. 

As a matter of course, hatching cannot take place unless 
the eggs are fecundated, but they are equally good for cook- 
ing, and better for preserving, from the circumstance that 
they do not contain the germ-vesicle, and, as a consequence, 
the germinating heat, i. e., the punctum saliens of animal life. 

Experiments have proved that when un impregnated eggs 
are placed under a setting hen for twenty-one days, (the 
usual period of incubation), both the yelk and albumen 
remain in their normal condition; showing conclusively that 
the barren are preferable to the fertile or fecundated eggs, 
because capable of enduring a higher temperature without 
chancre. 



J^resh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 59 

Poulterers should make a note of this fact, and not allow 
the male bird to associate with hens that are kept merely for 
laying eggs for preserving, and which are not designed for 
producing chickens. 

CONCLUDING REMARKS CONCERNING LIME COMPOUNDS FOR 
PRESERVING EGGS. 

An objection may be raised against the use of the 
"Cream of Lime Compound," according to. formula (see 
page 11), as the lime, after remaining at rest a few months, 
" packs " about the eggs, and requires considerable labor to 
take them out of the mixture. This may be obviated by 
using the following : 

Take of fresh, unslaked lime, ten pounds ; 

Common barrel salt, one pound ; 

Cold or hot water, twenty gallons. 

Mix and stir occasionally for a day or two. Then allow 
the solution to rest for twenty-four hours, at the expiration 
of which time the undissolved lime Avill have subsided, 
leaving a clear solution, which is now ready for use, and is 
sufficient to cover about one hundred and fifty dozen eggs, 
the number required to fill a 42 to 45 gallon barrel. 

Place the eggs carefully in the solution, so as not to 
disturb the sediment. When the barrel is filled within three 
inches of the top, spread over the eggs a thin cotton cloth, 
so that they may be entirely covered, and pour on the top of 
the cloth "Cream of Lime Compound" to the depth of two 
inches, and then pour over all a quart of paraffin oil, as 
directed on page 12. 

Eggs put up in the lime and salt solution should be kept 



60 Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 

at a temperature below 50° Fahr., and only in barrels 
prepared by the insulated process, and the solution covered 
with the refined paraffin oil ; otherwise the barrels and the 
atmosphere are liable to change the character of the lime- 
water. (See pages 7 and 8.) 

By strictly following these directions, if the eggs are kept 
at a temperature below 50 Fahr., they may be preserved in 
as good condition as if put up with the "Cream of Lime 
Compound." 

Lime solutions or mixtures are not to be preferred for 
keeping eggs, but the formulas already given are the best 
combinations of lime for that purpose. 

Fresh slaked lime may be used in the lime processes instead 
of the fresh, unslaked lime ; but the latter is preferable. 

ALL EGG-PRESERVING SOLUTIONS COOLED BEFORE USING. 

All solutions and liquid mixtures designed for egg- 
preservatives, should be cooled to the temperature of about 
40° Fahr., by the addition of ice broken into small pieces so 
that it will readily melt. 

To each twenty gallons of solution or mixture, add from 
fifteen to twenty pounds (or more, if required) of finely 
broken ice, to reduce the temperature of the liquid to 40° 
by the thermometer ; then put the eggs therein, as soon as 
the ice melts. 

If the barrel is insulated, and the surface of the solution 
covered with the refined paraffin oil, and kept in a cool cellar, 
the temperature of the solution will remain below 55° for 
months, which will insure the preservation of eggs a much 
longer time. 



/ 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow j3utter. 61 

PRESERVING EGGS, MEAT, VEGETABLES AND ERUITS BY 

HEAT. 

The boiling of eggs and meat produces a marked change 
in these articles of food, by coagulating their albumen, 
which is the substance first involved in putrefaction and 
disorganization. 

Cooked meat and eggs keep sweet much longer than when 
raw. 

Air is a necessary agent in the process of decay or putre- 
faction. If animal or vegetable substances can be deprived 
of air and kept in vacuo, no visible change will take place 
for a very long time. 

Boiling expels this internal air. Hence, if vegetable or 
animal substances be placed in a vessel and deprived of air 
by heat or other means, and the vessel then be hermetrically 
sealed, their preservation will be secured. 

The application of heat, as we before remarked, coagu- 
lates the albumen, rendering it inactive and less inclined to 
change. By the heating process, fruits and vegetables are 
boiled in their own juice, whereby their albumen is coagu- 
lated. Heat has the peculiar effect not only of changing the 
combination of the constituent parts of vegetable and animal 
substances, but of retarding, at least for many years, if not 
altogether, the natural tendency of these bodies to decom- 
position. This opinion is confirmed by many important 
facts, which cannot be reconciled with the supposition that 
oxygen is the sole or even principal agent of decomposition. 
Thus milk which has been merely scalded will keep sweet 
much longer, even if freely exposed to, or purposely impreg- 
nated with oxygen gas, than milk which has not been heated. 



62 -pRESH pGGS AND YELLOW BuTTER. 

Experiments have proved that oxygen may be present with 
fermentable matter without producing any effect whatever, 
as certain conditions cause or accelerate fermentation. So 
different or opposite states prevent or retard it. This is true, 
whatever may be the nature of the fermentation. 

The well-known preserving process of Appert does not 
wholly depend upon the exclusion of oxygen from the pro- 
visions he preserves, after the albumen is coagulated. 

Eggs, meat, vegetables and fruits put into tin cans, glass 
or earthenware jars, and kept for some time in boiling water, 
in order to completely expel their internal air and coagu- 
late their albumen, and then sealed up while hot, may be 
preserved thus for winter use. 

In dead animal bodies, the albumen first decomposes, 
serving as a ferment, or leaven, to infect the other animal 
constituents. Plants, which contain much vegetable albu- 
men, as mushrooms, cabbage, etc., very soon decay when 
exposed to the air, particularly in warm weather. 

To induce putrefactive fermentation, the same conditions 
are required as in the vinous and acetic, viz : moisture with 
certain degrees of temperature. 

Could we deprive animal and vegetable substances of 
both air and moisture, no change would ever take place. 
The presence of air, although not always necessary, usually 
hastens decomposition. It is upon the foregoing laws of 
chemistry that most of the methods of preserving food are 
founded. The putrefactive fermentation, like the acetous 
and vinous fermentations, requires but a small amount of 
animal or vegetable substance in a state of decomposition for 



Fresh J2ggs and Yellow JSutter. 63 

its inauguration. Even a decaying molecule inoculates 
others with which it may come in contact, causing them to 
putrefy. Even the effluvia or vapor of decaying matter will 
sometimes exert this destructive effect. 

The inevitable change to which inanimate organic matter, 
whether animal or vegetable, is subject, is denominated fer- 
mentation, of which the following are the chief varieties : 

First — The Vinous Fermentation. 

Second — The Acetous Fermentation. 

Third — The Putrefactive Fermentation. 

By the first two varieties, the useful products, alcohol and 
acetic acid, are obtained. But the last is that complete change 
termed putrefactive decomposition, or rotting, by which animal 
and vegetable substances, particularly those containing nitro- 
gen, are resolved into more simple and staple compounds, 
which, if liquids or gases, evaporate, while earthy or mineral 
matters remain. This change does not take place precisely 
in the same manner in animal as in vegetable substances; 
while vegetables generally pass through all the stages of fer- 
mentation, the flesh of animals passes at once into the putre- 
factive condition. 

Animal substances contain a large proportion of nitrogen, 
as one of their elementary constituents, which is found only 
in small proportion as a constituent of vegetable matter. 
Many kinds of the latter contain none at all, as, for example, 
lignin or woody matter, gums, resins, etc., which decay much 
more slowly than animal matter. 

The saccharine juices which many plants and fruits con- 
tain, if expressed, pass spontaneously in warm weather into 



64 j^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW EuTTER 

the vinous and thence into the acetous fermentations, giving 
rise to carbonic acid, which escapes, and alcohol, which, by 
absorption of oxygen passes into acetic acid or vinegar. 
Vinous fermentation, if not arrested, as it may be by well- 
known means, soon changes into the acetous fermentation, of 
which vinegar is the product. If a considerable quantity of 
nitrogenized material remains in the vinegar, the acetous will 
soon pass into the putrefactive fermentation, which results in 
complete destruction of the liquid for all useful purposes. 
There is a time, however, though brief, when vegetables and 
fruits are through the vinous fermentation, before becoming 
positively sour and unwholesome. 

When the juices of plants enter into the acetous ferment- 
ation, the acids thus generated destrov the cohesion of the 
ligneous fibres, and thus the whole plant is soon reduced to 
a pulpy state, and putrefaction follows. There is, however, 
very little of that remarkably disagreeable odor which 
exhales from putrefying animal matter, from the fact that 
the elements necessary to produce the offensive gases — sulphur 
and phosphorus — exist in vegetables in small proportions. 
When vegetables putrefy, their oxygen and a part of their 
hydrogen unite and form water, while another portion of 
their hydrogen combines with carbon, forming carbureted 
hydrogen. The chief part of the carbon, however, remains in 
the free and amorphous form of this element, and gives the 
decaying substance the black color so commonly seen in rich 
soils, which are the products of decaying vegetable matter. 

The elementary substances which compose the animal 
and vegetable kingdom are held together by the laws of 
organic life, but when deprived of this bond, have a tendency 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 65 

to separate from each other and enter into new combinations. 
This is a universal law of nature ; organic bodies come into 
existence, and, if permitted, live their allotted time and die. 
If nothing retards the usual course of things, they pass into 
other conditions, and the material substances of which they 
consist form the corporeal part of other living beings. Hence, 
life is death, but the grand result is life. 

For example: When the egg commences to decay, its 
albumen is the base of putrefactive fermentation, and sub- 
sequently the yelk is involved in the same chemical change 

The ultimate elements of a fresh egg are as follows: 

Carbon — about 55 parts. 

Nitrogen, " 16 " 

Oxygen, " 17 " 

Hvdrogen, " 7 " 

Sulphur, " 3 " 

Phosphorus" 2 " 

Which, in the progress of organic dissolution, separate 
from each other, and combine again as follows : The carbon 
unites with oxygen and forms carbonic acid; one portion of 
the hydrogen forms water with the oxygen; another part, 
uniting with the nitrogen, forms ammonia ; another portion 
combines with the carbon, producing carbureted hydrogen 
gas, and the remainder unites with the phosphorus and sul- 
phur, producing phosphoreted and sulphureted hydrogen 
gases, which are, in a great measure, the cause of the fetor, 
(so offensive to the sense of smell), evolved by the breaking 
of a perfectly rotten egg, which is justly entitled to the 
appellation of egg ultimatum. 



66 Fresh F,ggs and Yellow ^utter. 

NUMBER ONE PROCESS FOR INSULATING ALL WOODEN 
VESSELS — HOW TO PREPARE OR INSULATE CARBON 
OR KEROSENE OIL, LARD AND LINSEED OIL' OR 
OTHER BARRELS, WHETHER NEW OR OLD ; ALSO 
WOODEN VATS, FOR HOLDING EGG-PRESERVING SOLU- 
TIONS, PORK, BEEF, BRINE, CIDER, VINEGAR, ALKA- 
LIES, ACIDS, SIRUP, BUTTER, WATER, ETC. 

The .simplicity, cheapness and effectiveness of the method 
of preparing- carbon or kerosene oil barrels for containing 
eovr-prcserving solutions, render it practicable by all dealers 
in eggs. 

Kerosene or carbon oil barrels are generally well made, 
iron-bound and durable, and can be obtained in almost every 
town or village at a reasonable price. But being completely 
saturated with the oil, and impregnated with the peculiar 
odor of kerosene, such barrels cannot be used for general 
purposes without preparation. 

A series of chemical experiments has developed the fol- 
lowing sure and simple method of rendering these barrels 
suitable for the preservation of eggs and the other purposes 
above named : 

PROCESS AND FORMULA FOR INSULATING THE BARRELS 

OR VATS. 

The barrel must be well hooped, water-tight, clean and 
dry. It is then charred in the following manner, viz. : 
Build a fire inside the barrel with shavings, so that the blaze 
may char the whole interior surface. 

In the case of kerosene oil barrels, the inner surface 
will readily burn after the ignition of a few shav- 
ings. Other barrels may also be readily charred by the 



Fresh jEggs and Yellow Butter. 67 

use of about a pint of kerosene oil spread over their inner 
surface and allowed to remain a few minutes, in order that 
the wood may absorb a portion of it. Ignite it by some 
shavings, and in a short time the entire interior will become 
well charred. The combustion should be maintained until 
the wood is charred about one-eighth of an inch in depth, 
after which the ashes must be emptied out. 

To extinguish the fire after the barrel is sufficiently 
charred, put a damp cloth over it, or turn the barrel on the 
other end, but do not extinguish it by water, as it would 
render the barrel damp and unsuitable for receiving the 
insulating composition. 

By the inversion of the barrel on its opposite end, the 
ashes are emptied and the fire extinguished in a few 
moments. As soon as this is effected, reverse the position of 
the barrel, and allow the smoke and hot air to escape for a 
minute or two. Immediately, while the barrel is still hot, 
apply, as rapidly as possible, a thorough coating of the fol- 
lowing insulating composition : 

White Resin (pulverized) 6 lbs. 

Paraffin Wax 1 lb. 

Melt these articles together, and when combined apply 

while hot with a clean brush or swab, spreading the 

composition, before it cools, evenly over the entire interior 

surface of the barrel. If this composition be thoroughly 

applied while it is liquid and the barrel hot, it will penetrate 

the pores of the wood from one-fourth to half an inch. 

After allowing the barrel thus prepared to remain about an 

hour, make another application of hot melted paraffin as a 

finishing coat, to completely cover any remaining air holes. 



68 ' Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 

In one or two hoars after this application, the barrel will be 
ready for use. It will be proper to use six or seven pounds 
of the insulating composition for each barrel, and for the 
last coating about a pound of paraffin will be required. 
When barrels thus prepared require cleaning, use only luke- 
warm soap-suds, as hot water will melt the paraffin. 

[Note— To Prevent the Shrinkage and Swelling of Barrels. — 
In addition to the inside coating, make a hot application of the insulating 
composition to the entire outside and bottom of the barrel. Barrels thus 
prepared may be kept in water or in damp cellars, or ina dry atmos- 
phere, without swelling or shrinking, and with careful usage will last for 
years without decay.] 

Do not put hot wafer, or mix hot lime compounds, in 
barrels which have been prepared with the insulating 
materials, as paraffin wax: melts at 120°. 

When lime compounds are used, mix them in a barrel 
which has not been insulated, and, when the mixture is cold, 
pour it in the insulated barrel. 

NUMBER TWO PROCESS FOR CLEANSING AND PREPARING 
BARRELS AND VATS. 

The following process is not so complete as that described 
as the No. 1, or Insulating Process, but is far preferable to 
the ordinary methods of preparing barrels, and may be pre- 
ferred by some on account of its cheapness, being about one 
half as expensive : 

One pound of sal soda (common washing soda), or 
one-half-pound of potash or concentrated lye, and one 
pound of fresh, unslaked lime. Put these into the 
kerosene or carbon oil barrel to be cleaned, and pour upon 
them a pail full of boiling water. Stir thoroughly about 
fifteen minutes ; then wash, or scrub with a clean broom or 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 69 

long-handled scrubbing brush, the inside of the barrel over 
its entire surface with this caustic mixture; after which let 
the mixture remain during the day, occasionally scrubbing 
until the inside is thoroughly cleansed. Frequent scrub- 
bings may be necessary in some hard cases. 

On the following day, pour off the mixture, and imme- 
diately rinse the barrel with clean water. Then, before the 
barrel dries, place in it eight pounds of fresh, unslaked lime 
and two gallons of cold water. Let this mixture stan4 half 
a day, stirring occasionally. It will then be of the con- 
sistence of cream. 

Then, with a brush, give the entire inner surface a coat- 
ing of about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, and the 
bottom should have half an inch or more in thickness, all of 
which allow to remain and partly dry. 

In about an hour after this application, or when the 
coating is half dry, apply liquid silicate of soda, of the con- 
sistence of 25° Baume, with a clean brush, or carefully 
pour it into the barrel to the extent of half a gallon, and 
then carefully roll the barrel, so that the liquid silicate may 
come in contact with the entire interior surface of the barrel. 

This immediately combines with the lime, forming an 
insoluble compound of silicate of lime and soda. 

A second application should be made of the liquid sili- 
cate of soda in about six hours. 

A third application should be made in twenty-four hours 
after the first, which will dry in a few hours, forming a hard 
and tenacious vitreous coating or lining of the barrel. 

After a barrel thus prepared has dried one day, it is ready 
for the reception of any egg-preservative that may be desired. 
5 



70 J^RESH ^GGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER. 

No salt, glue, grease, oil, or other substances, should ever 
be mixed with the lime or silicate of soda, as such substances 
prevent the chemical union of the silicate with the lime. 

Never apply the silicate of soda to the barrel before the 
lime, as the lime will not afterwards properly adhere. 

Neither mix the silicate with the lime mixture, but use 
them separately, as above directed. It is much better to 
apply the silicate while the limed surface is somewhat damp, 
or htvlf dry, than to defer its application longer. 

If the above directions are strictly followed, a barrel will 
be produced having an interior surface hard and similar to 
glazed earthenware. 

This process (No. 2) may be used for cleaning all barrels, 
either new or old, for the preservation of eggs, etc., such as 
those which have contained molasses, vinegar, alcohol, 
wine, whisky, or other liquors. The wood of such barrels, 
although apparently clean, contains substances which, on 
exposure to the air, enter into fermentation, the results of 
which are acids that act upon the egg-preserving solutions, 
and may seriously modify them. 

Many suppose that new oak barrels are well adapted 
to hold egg-preserving solutions. On the contrary, they are 
the most unsuitable barrels that can be selected, as the sap or 
juice of the wood contains coloring matters and acids, which 
crystalize in the pores on drying. The acid (principally tannic) 
is readily dissolved when in contact with water, especially of 
an alkaline nature, thus changing the solution so that its action 
upon the carbonate of lime of the egg-shell stains it brown. 

It also changes the alkaline character of the lime-water, or 
other alkaline preparations, sometimes even wholly neutral- 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 71 

izing them and destroying all their effectiveness upon the 
effffs. which then soon spoil. These facts are sufficient evi- 

©to ' -L 

dence of the unfitness of new oak barrels for containing egg- 
preserving solutions, unless previously prepared for the 
purpose. Pine barrels are the best that can be used. Vats 
should always be constructed of pine lumber. 

The application of soda or potash, as above described, 
converts the grease or oil of the kerosene, lard or linseed, 
absorbed by or adhering to the barrel, into soap, which is 
subsequently removed by water. In case the impurity of 
the barrels is an acid, it is neutralized by the alkalies 
employed. 

The combination of lime and silicate of soda produces a 
hard, vitreous coating, which prevents the contents of the 
barrel from receiving any odor or other impurities that 
might be imparted by the wood. 

The principal objection to this process is, that the coating 
is liable to crack and peel off, especially when the wood 
swells and shrinks. 

With proper care, however, to prevent the undue drying 
of the vessels, the coating may last several seasons. But to 
render barrels or vats very durable and wholly unobjec- 
tionable, the No. 1 Insulating Process is decidedly prefer- 
able, as it entirely prevents the barrels from shrinking or 
swelling. 

No wooden vessel should be used for preserving eggs 
which has not been prepared by one of these processes. 

VATS FOR KEEPING EGGS. 

Vats may be made in the earth three or four feet deep, 
under cover, or in cellars. Let the earth be excavated 



72 Fresh JSggs and Yellow Butter. 

to the required dimensions, and the vat may be constructed 
of one and a half inch seasoned pine plank, and insulated, 
as directed for kerosene oil barrels, or the charring may be 
omitted, and the composition put on hot. 

Or the vats may be constructed of stone or brick, and 
laid in water-lime (hydraulic cement). If plastered thor- 
oughly, no insulating composition will be necessary. The 
cement will harden sufficiently in a few days. 

When these vats are ready for the eggs, pour in the egg- 
preserving solution till the vat is half filled. The eggs 
may be placed in the solution at any convenient time there- 
after, and should be deoxygenated and insulated by the No. 
1 process, or by the cold insulating process. When the vat 
is filled, the solution should cover the eggs at least two 
inches in depth, and there should then be poured over all a 
proper quantity of refined paraffin oil to make it about one- 
fourth of an inch in depth. Lastly, cover the vat with a 
strong board cover. 

REFINED RESINOUS LINSEED OIL MODE OF REFINING 

AND BLEACHING. 

To each gallon of raw linseed oil add four ounces of 
diluted sulphuric acid, (prepared by gradually adding two 
and a half ounces of commercial sulphuric acid to one and a 
half ounces of cold water, in a thin glass vessel). Mix the 
oil and acid well together by agitation, which should be 
repeated occasionally for two days ; then allow it to rest two 
or three days, in which time the albuminous and mucilag- 
inous matters contained in the oil will have subsided. The oil 
must then be carefully decanted, leaving the precipitate behind. 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow j3utter. 73 

Then to each gallon of oil thus prepared add animal 
charcoal, in coarse powder, two pounds ; chloride of lime, 
fine, dry powder, one ounce. Mix well together, and for two 
or three days occasionally shake the mixture ; then heat it in 
a water-bath at boiling point for five or six hours, stirring 
with a glass rod or stick two or three times an hour. Then 
remove the vessel from the water-bath ; allow it to stand 
two days, or even a week,, agitating occasionally. Let 
it remain at rest at least twenty-four hours, when the oil 
should be carefully decanted and passed through filtering 
paper. 

Finally, add to each gallon of the oil two ounces of 
slippery elm bark, pulverized. After thorough admixture by 
agitation, heat the mixture in a water-bath for one or two 
hours, with occasional stirring during the first hour. Then 
allow it to stand undisturbed one hour; after which pour off 
the clear oil, and while hot add to it one-half pound of the 
best white resin, pulverized ; stir the mixture a few minutes, 
or until the resin is dissolved ; then let the solution stand 
twenty-four hours, with occasional stirring, when it will be 
ready for use. Do not add more resin than recommended, 
as an excess retards the drying of the oil, while the propor- 
tion named accelerates the operation. 

The diluted sulphuric acid carbonizes the albuminous and 
mucilaginous matters contained in the raw oil. The animal 
charcoal and chloride of lime neutralize any acid remaining, 
and at the same time deodorize, purify and bleach the oil. 
The slippery elm imparts an agreeable odor, and absorbs any 
water which may remain in the oil, and when heated to 200° 
subsides within an hour, leaving a pure, refined oil. 



74 Fresh F,ggs and Jellow Butter 

Raw linseed oil, prepared in this way, will keep in any 
climate without change ; and, when applied to eggs, forms 
over the shell a firm, elastic, transparent coating, which 
materially aids in their preservation by excluding air from 
their substance and by preventing evaporation. The refined 
resinous linseed oil must not be used except for eggs which 
are to be kept in dry packing, as charcoal, oats, etc. If eggs 
coated with linseed oil are placed in alkaline solutions, the 
oil coating will saponify, and thus become destroyed. (See 
directions for using this oil for eggs on page 38.) Never 
use boiled linseed oil for coating eggs. Aside from its dele- 
terious character, owing to the litharge, sugar of lead, sul- 
phate of zinc, and other poisonous chemicals contained in 
it, its color darkens the egg-shell, which damages the sale of 
the eggs. 

RAW LINSEED OIL 

We have used as a coating for eggs, but find the follow- 
ing objections : It does not dry readily ; it slightly stains 
the egg-shell ; the egg sometimes absorbs the offensive 
crude odor of the oil, and it does not form as perfect a 
coating as when refined and combined with resin in the 
proportion above directed. Hence we do not recommend 
the raw linseed oil for coating eggs. 

REFINED PARAFFIN OIL MODE OF REFINING AND BLEACH- 
ING IT. 

Treat paraffin oil of a light color in the same manner as 
recommended for refining raw linseed oil, except that for the 
resin substitute paraffin wax, four ounces to each gallon of 
oil. The whole must be heated in a water-bath until the 
paraffin wax is dissolved. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 75 

This prepared oil may be used for the No. 1 hot deoxy- 
genating and insulating process (see page 33), or for the 
cold insulating process, (see page 37.) 

[Note. — Do not use more than four ounces of paraffin wax to each 
gallon of paraffin oil, when intended for the cold insulating process, as an 
excess of wax will leave a visible coating on the egg-shells, which is an 
objectionable feature when eggs are offered for sale.] 

The special attention of the reader is directed to the fact 
that resin must not be combined with paraffin oil, as it sapon- 
ifies when in alkaline solutions. Also, that PARAFFIN wax 
must not be dissolved in linseed oil when used for a cold 
application for eggs, as the combination will not dry readily. 

OTHER OILS FOR EGGS. 
We have experimented with many oils and oleaginous 
substances for the purpose of producing a suitable coating 
for eggs, viz. : Olive, Cotton Seed, Cantor, Poppy, Sperm and 
Lard Oils; also Tallow, Lard, Butter, etc., separately, and in 
combination with Beeswax, Paraffin, Caoutchouc, Resin, etc., 
but, thus far in our investigations, we have found nothing 
equal to the Refined Linseed and Paraffin Oils. 



7G Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 



BUTTER. 

Butter consists of fat globules (known as cream), each of 
which is inclosed in an envelope or coating of an albuminous 
nature, termed casein. This envelope is ruptured by the 
process of churning, and oxygen being absorbed from the 
air the cream becomes sour, while its temperature is 
increased. The fat globules coalesce into masses and form 
butter, while the remaining watery liquid, containing lactic 
acid and some butter, is expelled from between the globules 
in the form of buttermilk. 

The process of churning may be expedited by having the 
cream, at the commencement, indicate a temperature of 55° 
Fahr. An increase of caloric results chiefly from fric- 
tion, and to a small extent from an absorption of oxygen, 
which, combining with the constituents of milk, gives rise 
to a species of invisible combustiou, by which heat is evolved. 
From these causes the temperature rises to 60° or more. 
Great care should be taken not to exceed 65° Fahr., as thereby 
the quantity of butter will be lessened and its quality more or 
less impaired. 

If the temperature of cream, when put into the churn, 
is below 50° Fahr., a great increase of labor is necessary to 
separate the butter, without the least advantage. In winter 
the temperature of the cream should be the same as in 
summer. 

Never add boiling water to the cream, as it melts the fat 
globules, which thus become oily, and if the general temper- 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 77 

ature of the cream be raised to 70° or 80° Fahr., which is 
often the case, a white, oily butter is produced. The burst- 
ing of the globules of margarine, or fatty matter, gives rise 
to a greasy, sticky, unpalatable butter, liable to become 
strong and unfit for any other purpose than cooking, and 
sometimes not even for that. 

It will therefore be seen how very important a knowledge 
of the fore^oino; details is to the butter maker. 

Butter and cream are not changed in winter, except 
through neglect. The pernicious custom of keeping milk in 
the same room occupied by the family, subject to variations 
of temperature from 60° to 90° Fahr. during the day and 
down to the freezing point at night, should never be prac- 
ticed. Indeed, it is, under such circumstances, impossible 
to get sweet, palatable cream or good butter. There is also 
an absorption of the animal effluvia constantly exhaled from 
the bodies of persons inhabiting the room, as well as of the 
odorous principles of smoke from the atmosphere, which 
causes the smoky taste so often found in winter butter. 

Cleanliness is indispensable in butter making. Clean 
vessels, clean milkers, pure air, and a uniform temperature 
of 55° to 60° Fahr., are necessary conditions for the produc- 
tion of good butter. 

If the feed of the cow is good, consisting of young and 
tender hay, with some bran or odorless food in winter, and 
care is taken not to break the globules of the butter by work- 
ing it too much, and if the buttermilk be well expressed, 
good butter will be the inevitable result. 

When milk and cream are churned together, a higher 
temperature is required than for cream alone, ranging from 



78 Fresh F^ggs and Yellow Cutter. 

70° to 75° Fahr., before butter can be obtained. If the 
butter is unusually slow in forming, the addition of a little 
vinegar, or cream of tartar, or rennet solution, will cause 
the formation of butter almost immediately. 

The acidity of the milk is caused by the conversion of a 
portion of the sugar contained in it into lactic acid ; and if 
this change is not sufficient, the addition of the vinegar 
or cream of tartar supplies the want of acid, and the butter 
forms. 

THE CAUSE OF SOUR AND RANCID BUTTER. 

Fresh butter contains more or less buttermilk — the 
less the better for the butter, and the more certain its pre- 
servation. It should be worked out with a ladle or proper 
butter machine. The hands ought not to be used, on account 
of their high temperature (blood heat is 98°), which melts 
the globules, thus causing the butter to become greasy and 
sticky. Butter properly made, salted and packed in jars or 
firkins, if kept at or below a temperature of 50°, will remain 
in a perfectly sweet condition for a very long time. 

Butter containing much buttermilk, if kept at a tem- 
perature of from 75° to 90°, soon sours; lactic acid is 
formed ; and if kept for some time at a temperature of 
from 90° to 110°, butyric fermentation sets in, giving 
it a rancid odor and strong taste, owing to the presence of 
butyric acid, which characterize the incipient or first stages 
of its decay. Butyric acid is very volatile, and possesses a 
very powerful and disagreeable odor. It is the product of 
the decomposition of the butyrine, to which principle good 
butter owes its excellent flavor. At a temperature of 315° 
Fahr., butyric acid is completely converted into vapor ; and 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 79 

to restore rancid butter it is only necessary to raise the tem- 
perature to this degree, when the butyric acid escapes, leaving 
the remainder perfectly sweet. Therefore rancid butter may 
be used in cooking, by raising its temperature to 315° Fahr., 
which deprives it of all this acid, the cause of its offensive 
odor. But this heat also destroys the globules, and renders 
the butter unpalatable for the table. 

HOW TO RESTORE SOUR AND RANCID BUTTER. 

Butter dealers, as well as consumers, feel the importance 
of a reliable and practical process for the purification and 
refining of poor butter; and it is from the want of a proper 
knowledge of butter making, and sometimes from careless- 
ness, that a large proportion of the butter offered for sale is 
not suitable for table use. 

We shall proceed to show that butter, however imper- 
fectly made, may be rendered quite palatable and but little, 
if any, inferior to good dairy butter, and also how, even after 
the destruction of the butyrine, which imparts the peculiarly 
appetizing flavor and grass-like taste to fresh butter, it may 
be restored by a cheap and simple process. 

The discoveries of science have enabled the chemist and 
manufacturer to convert extremely repugnant compounds into 
wholesome articles of food. Among the most important dis- 
coveries on the list, may be classed those relating to sour and 
rancid butter. 

We confidently hope that since the immortal Blot has lec- 
tured upon, and taught the science of cookery, the day is not far 
distant when missionaries of health shall spread the gospel of 
knowledge to butter makers, who, from no fault of their own, 
have quite generally been excluded from the light of science. 



80 ^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BUTTER 

Butter may be restored by neutralizing the lactic and 
butyric acids of sour and strong butter, thus destroying the 
causes of both its unpleasant taste and odor. 

We will now give several processes, hot and cold, for the 
restoration of butter. 

NUMBER ONE — COLD PROCESS. 

Place two or three pounds of fresh, unslaked lime in a 
clean barrel, and pour over it twenty gallons of pure cold 
water, which allow to remain, with occasional stirring, for one 
day, and afterwards at rest ten or twelve hours, or until 
clear. Then carefully pour or draw off the clear liquid, and 
strain it through two or three thicknesses of fine muslin or 
linen into a clean, odorless barrel, of the capacity of forty to 
forty-five gallons. 

It is now ready for the reception of the rancid butter, 
which must be cut with a broad, sharp knife into thin slices, 
not exceeding one-fourth of an inch in thickness — the thin- 
ner the better. Put in one hundred pounds, or as much as 
the lime-water will cover, and finally over all, inside of the 
barrel, place a clean and floating cover, to prevent the butter 
on the surface from being exposed to the air. 

Remove the cover several times each day and stir the 
butter well with a long, clean stick. At the expiration of 
thirty-six or forty-eight hours, the rancidity of the butter will 
be entirely removed. 

The chemical action of this butter restorative is to cause 
the mass of butter to resume its original globular condition, 
thus imparting the appearance of new butter just churned 
and ready to be gathered. 

The solution should now be drawn off and thrown away; 



j^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 81 

after which thoroughly rinse the butter with cold water, 
fill up the barrel with pure water, and let it stand half 
a day. Then remove the butter, and let it drain several 
hours. It will then be ready for salting (or the butter pre- 
servative), and will answer the same purpose as new butter, 
if a good cooking butter only is wanted. This process 
removes much of the salt from the butter, and bleaches it 
quite white. To give the desired color, use the butter 
coloring. 

HOW TO RENDER THIS BUTTER OF SUPERIOR QUALITY 
FOR TABLE USE. 

Previous to salting or coloring the butter, a fresh grass 
taste may be imparted to it by putting it into a revolving 
churn with new milk, and keeping the churn in motion for 
fifteen or twenty minutes. 

For example : Take fifty pounds of butter, thus 
prepared, and five or six gallons of new milk, to which 
add the strained juice of three medium-sized raw carrots. 
Churn the butter in the new milk and carrot juice, which 
impart to it not only the butyrine, upon which depends the 
rich flavor of good table butter, and which was lost when 
it became rancid, but also a delicate yellow color, and equal 
in flavor to good June butter. 

The foregoing process converts the most rancid butter 
into a good saleable article, at a reasonable expense. 

This butter is now ready to be worked and salted in the 
same manner as new butter, or the butter preservative may 
be used instead of salt, and if the carrot juice in the milk 
has not sufficiently colored the butter, the butter coloring 
may be used to give the desired " June tint." 



82 Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 

OTHER AGENTS USED FOR REFINING BUTTER. 

For restoring rancid butter we have experimented with 
the chlorides of soda and of lime, but find them objection- 
able, for the reason that while they remove rancidity from 
the butter, they impart to it a flavor of chlorine, which is 
quite as disagreeable. 

We have also used butyric ether to restore the natural 
odor to butter which has been deprived of its rancidity, but 
find that it does not answer the purpose, and is not to be 
compared with new milk and carrot juice, when used for the 
same purpose. 

ANIMAL CHARCOAL, FOR REFINING BUTTER. 

Sour and rancid butter may be restored sufficiently for 
all culinary purposes by filtering it at a temperature of 200° 
Fahr., through animal charcoal, which at once removes 
from it all odor and color. But butter wholly free from 
flavor is as unpalatable for table use as that in which the 
opposite condition prevails. 

HOW TO PREPARE BUTTER FOR HOT CLIMATES. 

All butter designed for shipment to hot climates should 
be prepared by clarifying it in a water-bath, at a temperature 
of 200° Fahr. If butter be thus melted and allowed to 
remain at rest, the albumen and casein, or cheesy portion, 
will coagulate and settle to the bottom, leaving the butter pure 
and transparent, like oil. Then immediately draw off the 
butter into ice-cold water, without disturbing the sediment, 
in order that it may rapidly cool, and so prevent the crystal- 
lization of the stearin and the separation of the olein, which 
results would injure the flavor and appearance of the butter. 



J^RESH JlGGS AND YELLOW ^UTTER 83 

When cold, pack it down with the preservative, in as 
solid a manner as possible. 

Butter thus prepared will be paler than before, and may, 
if necessary, be properly colored. 

It will have a firmer consistence than before, and if put 
into close vessels and kept in a cool place, will remain sweet 
for months, even without salt. 

Butter, like oils, is liable to the change called rancidity, 
which proceeds from the casein and albumen found in it, as 
well as the water which is not entirely expelled. 

By the application of salt, or the preservative, this ran- 
cidity is in a degree retarded. 

HOW TO COLOR BUTTER. 

Nearly all lovers of butter prefer that which is of a light, 
rich, golden color. The following original process is a whole- 
some and simple method of bringing white or "streaked" 
butter to this fine tint without giving it the least appear- 
ance of having been colored. Good butter, if white or 
streaked, may be rendered more saleable by properly coloring 
it — a fact admitted by all produce dealers. 

The following is a formula for a 

NUMBER ONE BUTTER COLORING YELK OP EGGS AND 

ANNATTO. 

Take the yelks of sixty-four fresh eggs, which will be 
equivalent to one quart of yelk. The eggs may be broken 
into a large, convenient dish, and the yelks carefully separated 
from the whites. Add to the yelks thus obtained six ounces 
of pure glycerin, which will dissolve them, and beat together 
thoroughly with a spoon or egg-beater. Then pour this 



84 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

solution into a half-gallon bottle or jug, and agitate occasion- 
ally during five or six hours ; then add twenty-four ounces 
of pure sulphuric ether, and shake well together for a few 
minutes. The jug must be tightly corked, to prevent the 
evaporation of the ether. 

Shake, without removing the cork, a few times during 
three or four hours, and then let it remain at rest twenty-four 
hours. During this time the ether will have extracted the 
rich, yellowish-red coloring substance of the yelks, and if 
a glass vessel is used, it will be seen to have risen to the 
surface, owing to its light specific gravity. 

Carefully pour, or draw off with a syphon, into an evapo- 
rating pan or other convenient vessel, all that portion of the 
liquid of a yellowish-red color. There will be about twenty- 
four fluid-ounces in quantity, or about the same in bulk as 
of the ether used. This must be evaporated carefully to 
sixteen ounces, which should be done by setting the vessel 
containing it into a water-bath, or a pail of water, at a tem- 
perature not exceeding 140° Fahr. Water boils at 212°, and 
ether at 96° Fahr.; therefore the ether will rapidly evaporate, 
leaving a residue, which is the desired coloring, and which 
may be appropriately termed " oleum vitellus ovi," or oil of 
egg-yelks. 

It should not be forgotten that while evaporating the ether, 
there must be no fire or lighted lamp in the room, or fire in 
adjoining rooms where a draft can possibly convey the vapor 
of the ether, which is as inflammable and explosive as gunpow- 
der. Ethereal vapors, which are heavier than air, flow thirty 
or forty feet distant and take fire, instantly conducting the 
flame the entire length and breadth of the ethereal volume 



Fresh F-ggs and Yellow Cutter 85 

of vapor, and wrapping the contents of the room in one 
vast sheet of flame in a moment. On a large scale, the ether 
may be recovered by distillation, by means of suitable appa- 
ratus, and again used for the same purpose. 

The oil of egg-yelks should not be evaporated below one- 
third of the quantity of the ether used — that is, to sixteen 
ounces — as it would become too thick for use. 

The sediment which is left may be treated with half the 
former quantity of ether in the same manner, and with a 
similar result, except that less color will be obtained. 

Having shown how to obtain one of the products used 
for coloring butter, we will now explain how to combine it 
with another to obtain the requisite color. 

The process, which is quite simple, is as follows : 

Pure Extract of Annatto — one-fourth pound ; 

Alcohol, 95 per cent. — one quart. 

Cut the annatto into small pieces, put them into a bottle 
or jug containing the alcohol, and cover the mouth of the 
vessel by tying a piece of paper over it ; then set it into a 
water-bath or kettle of water heated to 175° or 200° Fahr., 
for two or three hours, agitating its contents occasionally. 
It must then be removed and allowed to rest twenty-four 
hours, and afterwards strained through filtering paper. The 
liquid thus obtained must then be evaporated in an open 
vessel, in a water-bath, to one pint. (On a large scale, the 
alcohol may be recovered by distillation.) This we may 
properly term the concentrated tincture of annatto. 

Concentrated Tincture of Annatto — one pint; 

Oil of Egg-yelk — two pints. 

Mix in a bottle, and shake well together. 
6 



86 Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 

This quantity will color one hundred and fifty, or more, 
pounds of butter, according to the tint desired. 

Before using, this mixture should be well shaken. Then 
sprinkle over and work into the butter thoroughly ; or, if 
preferable and more convenient, the requisite quantity of 
salt or butter preservative needed for the butter may be 
saturated with the color and incorporated in the same man- 
ner. By this operation the butter is both salted and 
colored. 

This butter coloring imparts to butter and cheese a 

perfectly natural color. 

[Notk. — The glycerin, after dissolving the oily portion of the yelks, 
owing to its great density (1.270), settles to the bottom, together with 
the yellowish-white remainder of the yelk. More ether may be added to 
this residue until all of the coloring matter is extracted, leaving the 
mass colorless ; but after the first maceration the subsequent additions of 
ether do not produce a saturated solution of the coloring substance, and 
therefore the secondary tincture should be used with a fresh quantity of 
yelks.] 

The above coloring, instead of being used in a liquid 
state, may be mixed with equal parts of oil of butter and 
digested for about an hour in a water-bath, at a temperature 
of about 120° Fahr., or until the ether is evaporated. Work 
it into butter in the same manner as if it were salt. One 
ounce of this preparation is sufficient for five or six pounds 
of butter, according to the shade desired. 

BUTTER COLORING THE USE OF ANNATTO. 

It is the custom of those who use annatto for color- 
inir butter and cheese, to dissolve it in solutions of soda, 
saleratus, etc., to extract its coloring substance. These 
alkaline solutions of annatto produce a dull brown, nankeen 






Fresh Jsggs and Yellow Butter. 87 

color, unsuitable for the purpose, and to a certain extent 
saponify, or convert into soap, the butter thus colored. 

When annatto is used for coloring, it should be first cut 
into small pieces, which must then be covered with deodorized 
alcohol, 95 per cent., in a suitable vessel placed in a water- 
bath, the heat of which ranges from 175° to 180° Fahr. 
The coloring substance of the annatto will be chiefly 
extracted in three or four hours, which may be known by 
the dark appearance of the alcohol. Remove the vessel, and 
let the liquid settle a few hours. Then pass the tincture 
through filtering paper, and evaporate in an open vessel to 
one-half. On a large scale, the alcohol should be recovered 
by distillation. 

This is a good method for obtaining a preparation of 
annatto for coloring butter or cheese. 

When using the tincture of annatto for coloring butter, 
it may be sprinkled over and worked into the butter, or the 
salt may be colored with the tincture before being incor- 
porated with the butter. 

As a large proportion of the annatto of commerce is 
adulterated, care should be taken that an inferior article is 
not used. Pure annatto is worth at this time from $1.50 to 
$2.00 per pound, at wholesale. ' 

Another method of using annatto for coloring butter is, 
to melt butter in a water-bath at about 200° Fahr., until 
the albuminous and cheesy matter separates and subsides ; 
then pour off carefully the pure oil of butter. 

Take three ounces of annatto, cut into fine pieces, and 
macerate it for one week in four ounces of deodorized alcohol 
(95 per cent). Or a similar result may be obtained by 



88 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 

digesting the annatto and alcohol for two or three hours in a 
water-bath heated to 180° Fahr. 

This is sufficient for one quart of the oil of butter, to 
which add both the tincture and sediment of annatto. Digest 
the whole in a water-bath, at a temperature of about 180° 
Fahr. for two or three hours, stirring occasionally. By that 
time the oil of butter will be of a dark orange color. Then 
carefully strain through a fine cloth, when it will be ready 
for use. It should be warmed to a temperature of about 
70° when used. Work it into butter in the same manner as 
salt — an ounce of this preparation to five or six pounds of 
butter, which may be varied according to the shade desired. 

BUTTER COLORING THE CARROT. 

It is often asked why the juice of carrots cannot be used 
for coloring butter. The answer is, because the colored 
juice of the carrot will not combine with butter or any other 
oleaginous compound, unless churned with milk or cream, as 
described below; and to extract the color from the juice, 
and to reduce it to a form for use, requires a long and expen- 
sive process, thus rendering it too costly for utility. 

But a fine color may be imparted in the process of 
making winter butter, by incorporating with it the juice of 
the common orange, garden carrot. 

Grate or bruise well a carrot of ordinary size, and squeeze 
its juice through cloth. Put the juice thus obtained into 
three gallons of cream, and churn. In color and taste 
winter butter thus obtained is little, if any, inferior to the 
best May or June butter. 

More or less of the juice may be used according to the color 
required ; but a proper proportion will give it the true color. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 89 

Just before grating the carrots, wash them thoroughly in 
warm water with a stiff brush, so as to perfectly remove all 
the dirt from the indentations on the surface. Then scrape 
off the outside skin with a dull knife, throwing it away. 
Cut off half an inch of the top, and two or three inches of the 
bottom of the carrot. This will remove all earthy or. foreign 
deposits, which, if left, would communicate an unpleasant 
taste to the butter. All the coloring properties of the carrot 
are contained in the rind, which is usually about half an inch 
in thickness; hence it is unnecessary to grate the core, or 
central portion of the carrot. 

OTHER AGENTS FOR COLORING BUTTER. 

Fresh egg-yelks may be used to impart color, in mak- 
ing winter butter, by mixing them with the cream before 
churning, but we greatly prefer the use of the carrot. 

Of the various coloring agents with which we have exper- 
imented, with a view of obtaining an innocuous and proper 
color for butter, we mention Saffron, Turmeric, Marygold, 
Fustic, etc., but we do not find any of them equal to the 
preparations of egg-yelk and annatto. 

BUTTER PRESERVATIVE. 

HOW TO KEEP BUTTER SWEET. 

To keep butter sweet and to give it a wax-like consist- 
ence, instead of using dairy salt, use the butter preservative, 
which arrests any tendency to sourness and the consequent 
destruction of its biriyrin, to which is due that delicious 
flavor only found in good, new, or well-preserved butter. 



90 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

HOW TO PREPARE THE BUTTER PRESERVATIVE. 

Ashton's Fine Liverpool Salt 11 pounds 

Powdered White Sugar 3 pounds 

Powdered. Saltpetre (chemically pure) £ pound. 

Mix well together, and use according to the following 

DIRECTIONS : 

Immediately after the butter is made, work it thoroughly 
with pure cold water, thereby removing all the buttermilk, 
which is, in a measure, the first cause of rancid butter. 

Then into each twelve pounds of the butter work one 
pound of butter preservative, instead of salt ; let the butter 
stand over night, and in the morning work it over ; then 
pack it down solid, and spread a cold, wet cotton or linen 
cloth over the butter, and finally cover it with salt at least 
one-half inch deep. Keep it in a cool place. 

Butter thus prepared is better after standing two or three 
weeks. 

HONEY-BUTTER. 

Instead of using salt or the preservative, thoroughly 
incorporate with twelve pounds of butter one pound of 
strained honey. This process will not only improve the 
flavor of the butter, but extend its preservation for an 
indefinite period. 

GLYCERIN FOR BUTTER. 

After restoring rancid butter, and when coloring and 
salting it, add one ounce of pure glycerin to each three 
pounds of butter. The glycerin combines readily with the 
butter and gives it a smooth and lustrous surface, which is 
characteristic of good butter. 



Fresh Fxjgs and Yellow Butter. 91 

Glycerin is not in the least unwholesome. It communi- 
cates a sweet, fresh taste, and materially assists in the pre- 
servation of all substances with which it maybe incorporated. 

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OP BUTTER. 

Carbon 65.60 

Hydrogen 17.60 

Oxygen 16.80 

Butter consists of two distinct proximate principles — 
Stearin, a tasteless, odorless and colorless substance, which 
melts at 100° Fahr., and Olein, the oily portion of butter, 
which melts at 50° Fahr. 

Butter softens as the temperature rises from 40° to 96° 

Fahr., at which point it becomes completely liquid. 

Olein. Stearin. 

Butter made in winter contains 37 63 

Butter made in summer contains 60 40 

This difference in constitution accounts for the difference 
between hard and soft butter. 

BUTTER PIRKINS, PAILS, ETC., INSULATED. 

All vessels, whether earthen, stone or wood, when used 
for containing butter, should be insulated with pure refined 
paraffin wax. 

This should be melted in a tin vessel, and applied hot, 
with a brush, to the inside surface of the vessel, covering it 
with a coating one-eighth of an inch thick. 

This coating will prevent the vessels absorbing salt from 
the butter, and from communicating any flavor to it. The 
paraffin wax is a bad conductor of heat, and thus prevents, in 
a great degree, injurious effects to the butter from the external 
changes of temperature. 



92 ^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BuTTER. 

After butter is packed in vessels prepared in the above 

manner, a white cotton cloth (new muslin), saturated in salt 

water, should be carefully spread over and pressed firmly on 

the butter, leaving no edges, and a layer, one-quarter of an 

inch thick, of hot paraffin wax should be poured over this 

cloth, so that the union by contact of the wax with the 

sides of the vessel shall be complete. Afterwards spread a 

layer of dampened salt, one inch deep, over all, and then a 

cloth and substantial cover. Keep the package in a cool 

place, and if the butter was sweet when packed, it will 

remain in the same condition for years. 

[Note. — It is best, a few minutes before packing butter as above, to 
work into every hundred pounds ten pounds of powdered ice, which 
must be as small as wheat grains. This will reduce the temperature of 
the butter to 35° or 40° Fahr. ; and if packed in the insulated vessel, and 
kept in a cool cellar, it will not rise to a temperature above 55° Fahr. for 
months.] 

This process will insure cold, hard, sweet butter at all 
times. The addition of the ice will add to the profit of the 
butter packer in two ways, viz. : By the additional weight of 
the ice, and the improved quality of the butter when offered 
for sale. 

The purchaser, although he may pay for ten per cent, of 
ice, obtains sweet, hard butter, and is the gainer in the end. 

By insulating butter in this manner, and with the free use 
of finely pulverized ice, the great question, how to preserve 
butter without failure, must be decided. 

Butter packers who have no ice-crusher can place the 
ice in a barrel, and by means of a wooden pounder reduce it 
to the fineness required, although the finer the better. A 
good butter-working machine is a most valuable auxiliary to 






FrESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 93 

the butter packer, and when the ice is added, it should imme- 
diately be worked into the butter before it chills, as the ice 
mixes more readily at first, and the butter should be packed 
without delay, before the ice can melt. 

To prevent the shrinking or swelling of butter firkins, 
make a hot application of the insulating composition to the 
entire outside and bottom of the vessels ; and when they are 
coated, both outside and inside, there will be no material 
change in the wood for a long time. 

NUMBER TWO PEOCESS FOR PREPARING BUTTER FIRKINS. 

When it is not convenient to insulate the wooden vessels 
designed for butter packing, they should be filled with salt 
water (three pounds of salt to each gallon of water), and 
allowed to remain for four or five days or more. The wood 
becomes saturated with salt, and will not therefore absorb 
any from the butter. This will also prevent the wood from 
imparting any of its flavor to the butter. 

After the salt water is poured out, rinse with cold water ; 
let the firkin drain well for half a day, and then apply 
a heavy coating of glycerin over its entire inner surface. 

.Butter may be packed immediately, or at any convenient 
time, after applying the glycerin. 

New oak firkins are frequently found to have an injurious 
effect upon the butter, from the presence of tannic acid 
contained in the oak wood ; but if prepared by the above, or 
the No. 1 process, this objection is removed. 

CREAM. 

When milk is allowed to remain at rest from twelve to 
twenty-four hours, according to the temperature of the air, 



94 Fresh F,ggs and Yellow Butter. 

a large proportion of its fat globules, by virtue of their low 
specific gravity, (being lighter than milk), rise and form a thin 
stratum or layer upon the surface, which is known as cream. 
When milk is kept in a room at a temperature from 50° to 
60° Fahr., the cream will rise with the greatest rapidity and 
regularity. More cream will rise if the depth of the milk 
does not exceed^ three or four inches. It is essential that the 
milk should be kept cool in warm weather, to prevent acidity. 
But if the temperature is lower than 40° Fahr., the cream 
rises slowly and imperfectly. 

CREAM — ITS CHEMICAL COMPOSITION. 

Cream is a yellowish-white, opaque, smooth, unctious 
fluid, and possesses an agreeable flavor. Its chemical compo- 
sition is as follows : 

Whey (or serum) 92.0 

Curd (or caseous matter) 3.4 

Butter 4.6 

100 

CREAM — ITS PRESERVATION. 

Cream may be preserved a long time if prepared as follows : 

White Sugar : 4 pounds 

Dissolve in Boiling Water 1 quart 

Add, while hot, Sweet Cream 2 quarts. 

Stir the mixture well, and when cold put it into jugs or 
bottles, and keep it in a cool place. 

This preparation will be found convenient for coffee, tea, 
and other purposes, where sugar and cream are both required. 

If five quarts of cream are reduced to four quarts by 
boiling in a water-bath, and when cool placed in jugs or 
bottles well corked, it will keep for months. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 95 



MILK. 

ITS COMPOSITION AND PRESERVATION. 

Milk is obtained from the class of animals called Mam- 
malia, and is intended by nature for the nourishment of their 
young. 

Pure Cows' Milk is an aqueous fluid of a yellowish-white 

color, being most yellow at the beginning of the period of 

lactation, and is marked by an agreeable, slightly saccharine 

taste. 

The specific gravity of new milk averages 1030 

The specific gravity of skimmed milk averages 1035 

The specific gravity of cream averages 1024 

The specific gravity of water distilled is 1000 

An analysis of new milk exhibits the following com- 
position : 

Water 873.00 

Casein 48.20 

Butter (fat) 30.00 

Milk Sugar 43.90 

Phosphate of Lime 2.31 

Phosphate of Magnesia 0.42 

Phosphate of Iron 0.07 

Chloride of Potassium 1-44 

Chloride of Sodium 0.24 

Soda, in combination with Casein 0.42 

Total 1000.00 

The average weight of a gallon of good, rich, new milk 
is 8 J lbs.; a gallon of pure water weighs 8 lbs. 



96 Fresh F,ggs and Yellow Sutter. 

PRESERVING MILK. 

In order to preserve milk sweet for years, put it into 
strong bottles, which place in a water-bath, and gradually 
raise it to the boiling point, by which means the small quan- 
tity of air contained in it is expelled. While the bottles are 
boiling hot, cork them securely, using wire to retain the corks, 
and finally cover with good sealing-wax. 

Milk, if boiled for a few minutes, will keep sweet a long 
time in warm weather, even when freely exposed to the atmos- 
phere. 

If three pounds of sugar be added to each gallon of milk 
before boiling, and it afterwards be placed in suitable bottles 
or jugs for use, it will keep still longer. 

New milk, reduced by boiling to one-half its original 
volume, will keep sweet much longer than the usual time. 

Milk heated to 212° will remain sweet for a few days. 
If heated to 220°, under pressure, it will remain sweet for 
two or three weeks, but if heated to 250°, under pressure, it 
will keep almost indefinitely. 

TO DETECT WATERED MILK. 

The usual method of adulterating milk is by the addition 
of water. The extent of its adulteration may be determined 
by the following plan. If a tube of glass, of convenient size, 
be divided into one hundred equal parts, and then filled 
with milk and allowed to stand twenty-four hours, the cream 
will rise to the upper part of the tube and occupy from 
eleven to thirteen parts of the tube, if the milk be genuine ; 
otherwise, the cream will occupy less space in proportion to 
the amount of adulteration. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter, 97 

EFFECTS OF HEAT AND AGITATION. 

If cream is kept warm for some days, it becomes thicker 
and partially coagulated, in consequence of the lactic acid, 
which precipitates the caseous matter contained in the small 
portion of milk with which the cream is mixed. 

If cream in this state be violently shaken, as in the opera- 
tion of churning, the oily portion, or butter, quickly separates, 
leaving a liquid called buttermilk. 

SKIMMED MILK 

Consists of — 

Water 92.9 parts. 

Curd 2.8 " 

Sugar of Milk 3.4 " 

Lactic Acid 3 " 

Lactate of Potassa 2 " 

Lactate of Iron 1 " 

Chloride of Potassium 1 " 

Phosphate of Potassa 1 " 

Phosphate of Lime 1 " 

Total 100 " 

MISCELLANEOUS FACTS. 

As a general average, three gallons of good milk yield 
one pound of good butter ; although chemical analysis shows 
but three-fourths of a pound of pure butter in this quantity 
of milk. Hence one-fourth of each pound of butter made 
in the ordinary way consists of the various other substances 
enumerated in the foregoing analysis. 

The white, almost opaque appearance of milk is an 
optical illusion ; for when examined by a microscope of 
moderate power, it is seen to consist of a perfectly transparent 
liquid, in which are suspended numerous lucid globules of 
fat (known as butter), surrounded by albuminous envelopes. 



98 j^RESH pGGS AND YELLOW J3UTTER. 

By agitation, these envelope's are broken mechanically, as in 
churning, and the butter collects in masses. 

Milk boils at 199° Fahr., and in boiling a curd of 
caseous matter, partially coagulated, rises to the surface, 
forming a pellicle or thin skin, which, if removed, will soon 
be succeeded by another. This action will continue until 
the residuum becomes watery and incapable of producing 
any more such pellicles. 

Milk should never be put into zinc or lead vessels, as it 
speedily dissolves a portion of these metals and becomes 
poisonous. 

TO PREVENT MILK FROM SOURING. 

New milk is very slightly alkaline in character, and the 
cause of its becoming sour is the warm temperature of the 
atmosphere and the absorption of oxygen, which produce 
lactic acid. 

So long as the alkaline character of milk is maintained, 
it cannot sour. As the result of many experiments, we pro- 
pose the following as the best method for preserving milk in 
a sweet condition : 

Calcined Magnesia 1 ounce. 

Phosphate of Soda (pulv.) 3 " 

Mix well together, and thoroughly stir one ounce of this 
mixture into three gallons of milk. This quantity will keep 
milk, during quite warm weather, at least twenty-four hours 
longer than if not used. By its addition from time to time, 
in small quantities, milk may be preserved sweet almost an 
indefinite time. Care should be taken, in using this pre- 
servative, not to add too great a quantity at one time, as when 
used in excess it communicates a perceptibly alkaline taste. 



Fresh F,ggs and Yellow Butter. 99 

WHY LIGHTNING CAUSES MILK TO SOUR. 
Oxygen and nitrogen gases, which constitute atmospheric 
air in the proportion (by weight) of 23 parts of the former 
to 77 of the latter, are mixed, but not combined. By the 
action of lightning, these gases, through which it passes, are 
caused to combine, and thus are produced nitrous oxide, 
nitric oxide, hyponitrous, nitrous and nitric acids, according 
to the proportion of each gas in the combination. The acids 
thus produced in the atmosphere become diffused, and the 
slightest quantity of them absorbed by milk causes lactic 
fermentation and sourness. We might further consider the 
slight proportion of ammonia also produced, but deem it 
unnecessary to do so in this connection. 

WHY STALE MILK CURDLES WHEN BOILED. 

In stale milk, fermentation has already commenced, which 
the heat of the fire greatly accelerates. The lactic acid formed 
during this fermentation, acting upon the casein of the milk, 
coagulates it. 

Milk contains soda and potash, which are combined with 
the casein. These compounds (caseate of soda and caseate of 
potassa) are soluble in water, and the milk is sweet; but when 
any acid deprives the casein of these alkalies by combining 
with them, then the casein is no longer soluble in water, but 
is precipitated in the form of curd. 

BOIL MILK IN A WATER-BATH. 

It should always be boiled in a water-bath. Otherwise 
the organic substances of the milk will sink to the bottom in 
the form of coagulated casein and adhere to the kettle. 



100 Fresh JLggs and Ji 



CHEESE. 

THE COMPOSITION OF CHEESE. 

The best cheese is obtained from new milk, and is a mix- 
ture, in various proportions, of coagulated casein and butter. 

Casein is found in milk, and in the blood ; also in peas, 
beans, and other leguminous plants. It is soluble in 
alkaline solutions, and its solution in milk is due to the 
alkali (soda) present ; but if the latter be neutralized by an 
acid, as lactic acid, the casein coagulates, forming the curd. 
The same effect is produced by a calf's stomach, dried, which 
is called rennet (and contains muriatic and lactic acids), and 
by other acids. The degree of heat most favorable for the 
coagulation of milk by rennet (or other suitable acids), is 
about 90° Fahr., its natural heat when obtained from the cow. 

By analysis, cheese is found to consist of: 

Carbon 59.781 

Hydrogen 7.429 

Oxygen 11.409 

Nitrogen 21.381 

100.000 

The large quantity of nitrogen it contains sufficiently 

explains its tendency to decomposition, and at the same time 

accounts for its well known histogenetic (flesh-making) 

properties. 

Its wonderful power of exciting fermentation, of which 
digestion is a variety, by its own internal changes, is recog- 
nized in the following couplet : 

" Cheese itself is a peevish elf — 
It digests all things but itself." 



fRESH J£ggs and Yellow ^utter 1 01 

Centuries have elapsed since the author of this couplet 
(which is attributed to Galen) lived ; yet the truth conveyed 
is unchanged. The moderate use of cheese is highly bene- 
ficial, not only as food itself, but as a promoter of digestion. 

The carbonaceous matter of cheese, or other food, is fuel 
for the body, and producss, by respiration, animal heat. 

The nitrogenized portion of cheese produces muscle and 
other similar structures of the body. 

Professor Liebig has very ingeniously classified what he 
terms the plastic elements of nutrition, to which belong — 

Vegetable Fibrin, Vegetable Casein, 

Vegetable Albumen, Animal Flesh, 

Blood. 

And, the elements of respiration, to which belong — 

Fat, Grape Sugar, 

Starch, Milk Sugar, 

Gum, Pectin, 

( lane Sugar, Alcohol. 

Other modern investigators, after comparing the fat- 
forming and flesh-forming values of cheese with that of 
flour and meat, have arrived at the following statement : 

KLESH-MAKING PAT-MAKING 
PROPERTIES. PROPERTIES. 

Per Cent. Per Cent. 

( 'heese contains 24 31 

Flour contains 6 30 

Meat contains 15 30 

Food taken into the body varies in its effects in different 
individuals. Some persons are inclined to obesity, while 

7 



102 J^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BUTTER 

others are constitutionally lean, and all the feeding or absti- 
nence possible will not wholly change these conditions. 

In the business of life, obesity generally characterizes 
persons constitutionally inactive, and who require strong 
motives to impel them to violent physical exertion. Such 
individuals possess more of the lymphatic or watery tem- 
perament, and are apt to preserve their equilibrium of temper 
while others do not. Hence it is better for judges, child- 
bearing women, and all persons whose duties require little 
muscular activity, to be inclined to obesity. In accordance 
with the unerring wisdom displayed in nature, we discover 
the presence and exemplification of these conditions in the 
animal organization in exactly those cases where it is most 
required, e.g., in females, judicial officers, etc. 

Inferior kinds of cheese are not very digestible, nor will 
they assist digestion so much as good old cheese. The lives 
of persons who eat to a surfeit of rich food may often be 
prolonged by means of a little old cheese of the best quality, 
used as a condiment, and which, when taken into the stomach, 
causes the rapid disintegration of the mass of food by excit- 
ing a copious flow of saliva and a greatly increased secretion 
of the gastric juice, all of which are the most important 
agents in the process of digestion. 

Cheese should be well masticated. This is the principal 
secret of its agreeing so well with some persons, while, others 
who do not sufficiently masticate their cheese complain of 
its disagreeing with them. Poor cheese, with which the 
market is flooded, is unfit to be eaten except by ostriches or 
other animals possessing the strongest digestive powers. 

In the process of cheese-making, much care is required, 



Fresh F.ggs and Yellow }3utter 103 

especially in the cooling and stirring of the milk as soon as 
taken from the cow, and in preserving it free from all 
impurities. 

THE PROCESS OF CHEESE-MAKING. 

The materials used in making cheese are milk, rennet, 
salt, and coloring matter. 

Rennet is the stomach of a calf, and may be used either 
fresh or after being salted and dried. 

It is generally kept in the latter state, for the sake of its 
better preservation. The stomach is taken from the calf as 
soon as killed, and after being cleaned of the curd of milk 
always found in it, is well salted on both sides, and, after 
draining well, is stretched on a bent stick and dried. 

In the preparation of cheese, the milk may be of any 
kind, from the poorest skimmed to that rich in cream, accor- 
ding to the quality of cheese required. 

The present high price of cheese will incite great compe- 
tition in its manufacture, whereby we' hope that it will 
become both cheaper and better than that generally found in 
market. 

The process of cheese-making is very simple ; but to make 
good cheese, even with the best materials, pure air and clean- 
liness are indispensable. 

The materials being ready, the greater portion of the milk 
is put into a large tub, and the remainder sufficiently heated 
to raise the temperature of the whole to 90° Fahr., the heat 
of new milk. The whole having been well mixed, the rennet 
is added, and the tub covered. 

[Note. — If the milk be not warm enough when the rennet is put into 
it, the curd will be tender, and the cheese will never be firm, but will 



104 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 

bulge out at the sides ; but if it be hot, it will cause the cheese to swell, 
"heave," and become spongy, hard, dry and unpalatable, because most 
of the " richness " will go off with the whey. In hot weather, care 
should be taken, if the cows are pastured in unshaded grounds or where 
water is not within their reach, to add cold spring water to the milk as 
soon as it is brought into the dairy, until it arrives at the proper degree 
of heat, which is from 85° to 90° Fahr.] 

Allow the tub to stand until the milk is turned, when 
the curd should be struck down with the skimming-dish a 
few times ; after which allow it to subside. 

The vat, covered with the cheese cloth, is next placed on 
a "horse" or "ladder" over the tub, and filled with curds by 
means of the skimmer. The curd is pressed down with the 
hands, and more is added as it sinks. This process is continued 
until the curd stands about two inches above the edge of the 
vat. The cheese, thus partially separated from the whey, 
should be now placed in a cheese tub, and a proper quantity 
of salt added, without removing it from the vat ; after which 
a board should be placed over and under it, and pressure 
applied for two or three hours. 

The cheese should now be turned out and surrounded by 
a fresh cheese cloth, and then subjected to pressure for ten or 
twelve hours. It is then commonly removed from the press, 
salted all over, and pressed again fifteen or twenty hours. 

The quality of the cheese largely depends on this part of 
the process, as if any of the whey has been left in the cheese 
it will not keep, but will rapidly become ill-flavored. Before 
placing the cheese in the press the last time, the edges should 
be pared smoothly and neatly. 

It now only remains to wash the outside of the cheese in 
warm whey or water, wipe dry, and color with annatto, as is 
usually done. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 105 

In gathering the curd, preparatory to making cheese, 
collect it with the hands, very gently pressing it towards the 
sides of the tub, letting the whey run off through the fingers, 
and ladling it out as it collects. 

The cheese being made, it should be placed in a cool, damp 
cellar, at a temperature not above 50° ; a few degrees less 
will be better. Any place subject to great changes of tem- 
perature is unfit for storing cheese. 

It will be seen that very slight differences in the 
materials, preparation and storing of the cheese essentially 
influence its quality and flavor. 

The proper season for manufacturing cheese, which in 
this country has become a very staple article and is the source 
of a large revenue, is between the first of May and the last 
of September. Under favorable circumstances, the business 
may be continued at earlier or later periods of the year. 

The process of cheese making should not be commenced 
before the rennet and the coloring material have been prop- 
erly prepared. The rennet is first soaked in water, to which 
may be added a few simple aromatics, as cloves, etc., which 
serve to destroy any offensive odor of the rennet, and to give 
an agreeable flavor to the cheese. The rennet may remain 
in the water any reasonable length of time, with the result 
of increasing the strength of the fluid the longer it is left 
in it. An average amount of this fluid for coagulating fifty 
gallons of milk is estimated at half a pint. The proper 
quantity is, however, best learned by care and daily experi- 
ence. A handful or two of salt, properly used, will aid 
materially in producing a proper coagulation. 

Instead of rennet, the Hollanders sometimes use a small 



106 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter, 

quantity of muriatic acid, which is said to cause the peculiar 
flavor of " Dutch " cheese. 

Should the whey be of a slightly greenish color, it is 
evident that the curd has been properly formed ; but if it be 
white, it is equally certain that the coagulation is imperfect. 
If much caseous matter be wasted in the whey, the cheese 
will have a poor flavor. 

The vat used is simply a strong, circular wooden tub, 
similar to a half-bushel measure in shape. Hard wood is 
preferable in its construction. If turned out of a solid block, 
it will be better for service. The bottom is not tightly 
inserted, and, as well as the sides, is perforated, in order to 
permit the free egress of whey when the curd is subjected to 
pressure. The press is a combination of mechanical powers, 
such as the lever and screw, and is too well known to require 
any further description here. 

Before the cheese is placed in the press, it should be 
enveloped in a piece of thin, open linen. 

To harden the skin of the cheese, after its removal from the 
vat, it is put into a vessel of warm or hot whey for an hour. 
After being taken from this whey, the cheese is again sub- 
jected to pressure for half an hour, and then turned in the vat, 
and so alternately turned and pressed for forty -eight hours. 

To salt a cheese properly, the salt should be thoroughly 
mixed with the curd previous to its being put in the vat. 
The amount of salt used must be graduated by the size of 
the cheese, as too much will make it unpleasant, and if there 
is too little the cheese will not keep. 

COLORING CHEESE. 

Coloring cheese is a very general custom, for which pur- 



Fresh F,ggs and yELLow ^utter 107 

pose annatto is considered preferable. The usual manner of 
coloring milk for cheese is to dip a piece of the annatto into 
a bowl of milk, and then rub it on a smooth stone until the 
milk assumes a deep red color. This infusion, freed from 
the sediment which separates by standing a short time, is to 
be added to the milk of which cheese is to be made. It 
imparts to the milk a reddish, nankeen color, which becomes 
deeper in proportion to the age of the cheese. Annatto, dis- 
solved in solutions of soda or saleratus, is also used to color 
cheese. 

But the most suitable coloring for cheese is the butter 
coloring heretofore described : either the egg yelk and 
annatto (see page 85), or the oil of butter and annatto (see 
page 87). Add a sufficient quantity to the milk while warm, 
and stir well together before the rennet is added. These 
butter colorings impart to the " cheese milk" a rich, mellow, 
light-orange tint, far superior to the water or alkaline solu- 
tions of annatto. After the cheese is made, its exterior 
surface may be slightly tinged with the butter coloring. 

HOW TO PRESERVE CHEESE. 

By immersing the cheese in hot paraffin wax two or three 
minutes, or by applying the wax with a brush, the cheese will 
be preserved from flies, dust, etc., and rendered proof against 
maggots or "skippers," whereby the cheese dealer will be 
saved much annoyance and loss. 



lU8 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 



MEAT. 

PRESERVING MEATS. 

Animal food is rendered harder and less digestible by 
being salted for preservation. 

In the process of salting, besides common salt, several 
other antiseptics are frequently employed to improve the 
meat, among which are Nitrate of Potassa, Sugar, Vinegar, 
Spices, etc 

The theory of the preservation of meat by alkaline or 
neutral salts is, that they abstract water from the flesh, the 
existence of which in meat is necessary to its decomposition. 
When applied, the salts become dissolved in the water they 
withdraw from the meat, and at the same time a small quan- 
tity of the solution penetrates the meat by a species of 
endosmosis. 

The albumen and fibrin being thus deprived of their 
water, are concentrated and less prone to putrefaction. 
Hence, salted meats are more readily dried in the air than 
fresh meats. 

Salting greatly impairs the nutritious qualities of the 
meat, and, if long continued, will corrugate and harden the 
fibrin, rendering it less easily digestible; but the action of 
salt for a few days does not materially impair the nutritious 
qualities of meat. 

\\ hen kept very long in salt, meat becomes so disagree- 
able and strongly saline that it is difficult, by soaking in 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 109 

water, to sufficiently deprive it of this objectionable char- 
acter. Even boiling salted meat is not sufficient to extract 
the salt from the middle of the meat, for so much boiling is 
requisite that its quality is thereby greatly injured, and many 
of its nutritive properties are lost. 

Salting is performed in two ways, viz. : Dry-salting and 
pickling. 

Dry-salting consists in packing meat in dry salt, and 
sometimes rubbing its surface over with salt. Meat thus 
salted will keep longer, but is deprived of a greater propor- 
tion of its nutritive properties than when cured by pickling. 
For exportation, or for keeping in hot climates, dry-salting 
is necessary, for obvious reasons, to preserve beef and pork. 

The pieces of meat most suitable for salting are those 
which have the fewest large blood-vessels, and are most 
solid. 

Very little salt penetrates meat, except through the cut 
surfaces, to which it should always chiefly be applied. All 
openings or cavities in the meat should be well filled with 
salt. 

For each hundred weight of meat, about eight pounds of 
salt will be requisite. It should be rubbed into every part, 
moulding and turning the meat very often, to " open the 
grain." 

The meat is then to be put into tubs, with a layer of 
coarse rock salt between the pieces. The juices of the meat 
dissolve the salt, forming a strong solution called "brine." 
In about a week, it is usual to take out the meat, and re-pack 
it in smaller vessels, with the addition of more coarse salt, in 
which condition it should remain at least one month before 



110 Fresh Jsggs and Yellow Butter. 

it caii be relied on to preserve through winter or during trans- 
portation. Cutting out the bones of meat to be salted in 
this manner is advantageous to its preservation. 

If the salting is performed immediately after the animal 
is slaughtered, and while the flesh is still warm, and before 
the fluids are coagulated, the salt penetrates rapidly, by means 
of the blood-vessels and capillaries, throughout the entire 
substance of the meat. 

Tainted meat does not readily absorb curative agents. 

DRY-SALTING FOR BEEF, PORK OR OTHER MEATS. 

Rock, or Turk's Island Salt 6 pounds. 

Sugar (light-brown or white) 2 pounds. 

Mix together, and rub thoroughly over the meat. 

In packing, apply a layer of the mixture over each piece 
of meat. 

The time required for this compound to penetrate the 
pores of the meat varies from one and one-half to two weeks, 
according to the size and compactness of the meat. The sugar 
is not only a preservative, but renders meat more juicy and 
" mellow." 

PICKLE FOR BEEF, PORK OR MUTTON. 

Coarse Salt 8 pounds. 

Sugar-house Sirup 2 quarts. 

Nitrate of Potassa } ounce. 

Bicarbonate of Potassa h " 

Soft Water 8 gallons. 

Mix, boil and skim well, and when cold pour over the meat. 

This makes sufficient pickle to cover one hundred pounds 
of meat. 

When salt is used alone in curing meat, it is apt to com- 
municate a greenish tinge. 






Fresh F-ggs and Yellow jButter 111 

Nitrate of Potassa has a sharp, bitterish, cooling taste, 
possesses about four times greater antiseptic power than com- 
mon salt, and imparts to meat a fine red color ; but it has 
also the effect of hardening the meat and of giving it a harsh 
taste; hence but a very small quantity of it should be used. 

Sugar-house Sirup of a pleasant flavor imparts a mild 
and delicious taste, gives the meat a natural red appearance, 
and is a good antiseptic. 

Bicarbonate of Potassa (saleratus) has a tendency to 
preserve the juices and tenderness of the meat by preventing 
the coagulation of its albumen. 

Cochineal is sometimes used to impart to meat a red color, 
but we do not advise its use. 

Notwithstanding the antiseptic powers of salt, brine is 
very liable to putrefaction, as the blood and juices of the 
meat which it contains are more liable to decomposition than 
the flesh. 

Pork can be preserved by a smaller quantity of salt than 

beef or mutton, as it takes up less salt and contains less water 
i 
in the form of juice. 

When pork and beef are equally salted, the former will 
be properly cured in ninety days, while the beef will have such 
an excess of salt as to be almost unfit for food. 

The fatty portions of salted meat absorb less salt than 
the lean parts. Pork contains much fat, which is the cause 
of the effect above mentioned. 

The fat of fresh pork is too gross to be much relished in 
this climate, especially in hot weather, but when salted 
becomes firmer, more agreeable to the palate, and much more 
digestible. 



112 Fresh F-ggs and Yellow Butter. 

Fat, in general, has less tendency to putrefaction than 
lean meat, which is illustrated by the preservation of lard, 
tallow, oils, etc. 

THE PRESERVATION OF MEAT BY SMOKING. 

The smoke of burning wood, as hickory, beech and maple, 
as also of bark, corn-cobs, etc., is generally supposed to com- 
municate the finest flavor to meat. 

The preservation of meat by smoking is due to the acid 
vapor in the smoke, termed pyroligneous acid. 

By adding a quart of pyroligneous acid to a barrel of 
meat, much less salt is required in pickling. Pyroligneous 
acid coagulates the albumen of the meat, but does not act 
upon the fibrin. Its antiseptic properties are well established. 

HAMS AND SHOULDERS, BACON, DRIED BEEF, MUTTON, ETC. 

These meats, after being salted and immersed in hot paraffin 
wax for two or three minutes, will have a thin coating of 
paraffin, which renders them impervious to air, moisture, 
flies, dust, mould, etc. ; and thus prepared they will keep 
much longer than if not subjected to the paraffin process. 

The paraffin can readily be removed by peeling it off with 
a knife, or by dipping the meat into boiling water a few 
minutes, which will melt and save it, as the paraffin may 
be collected on the surface of the water when it becomes cold. 

The above may be applied to fresh beef and other meats. 






J^RESH p3GS AND YELLOW RuTTER 113 



APPLES AND CIDER. 

The apple-tree (Pyrus Mains) is indigenous to the soil of 
Europe, but naturalized in this country. 

The apple-tree is supposed to have been introduced into 
England by the Romans. 

Homer describes the apple as one of the precious fruits of 
his time; and it was cultivated and highly esteemed among 
the Romans, who brought it from the East and set a high 
price upon fine bearing trees. 

It was cultivated in the gardens of monasteries during 
the Middle Ages, to which source the greater number of 
our cultivated varieties trace their origin. All varieties of 
the apple are said to be derived from the Wild Crab, which 
is the type of the fruit if left to degenerate, and to which 
it speedily does if uncared for. 

By culture, crossing and grafting, improved varieties are 
produced. 

The apple-tree, if favored by a good soil and climate, 
lives to a great age. Reports show that apple-trees yield fruit 
for two centuries, and that there are orchards now in Asia five 
hundred years old. 

It is estimated that there are about fifteen hundred vari- 
eties cultivated in the United States. 

Apple-trees do not yield fruit in tropical countries, but, 
like the oak, extend from the tropics to the latitude of 60°. 
The apple is, therefore, the growth of temperate and rather 
cold climates. 



114 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

The fruit, or apple, contains both malic and acetic acids, 
has a pleasant and refreshing flavor, and is a useful and 
healthy article of diet, when perfectly ripe, which may he 
eaten either raw, roasted, stewed, or boiled. 

However, apples should not be eaten raw by dyspeptics 
or patients afflicted with gout, rheumatism, etc. 

Raw apples should always be well masticated before being 
swallowed. 

An apple tea may be made for fever patients, by boiling 
a tart apple in half a pint of water, and sweetening the tea 
with sugar. 

CIDER— (Sicera.) 

Cider is a fermentable liquor, consisting of the juice of 
apples. It was known to antiquity, and is mentioned by 
Pliny, who called it the " wine of apples," as made by the 
Romans in Italy. 

Cider is made in nearly all the temperate climates of the 
world. The process of making it is too well known to re- 
quire more than a brief description. 

The apples are crushed or ground in a mill, the pulp or 
pomace placed in a cider press, and the juice expressed. 
This, when first made, is known as bweet cider, which if kept 
at a temperature below 45°, will remain the same condition. 

But if the cider is kept at a temperature above 45°, fer- 
mentation takes place. The best plan is to place the barrels 
of cider in the shade, and allow it to ferment at a temperature 
between 45° and 55°. This is a slow process of ferment- 
ation, but for domestic use is the only proper one, as at a 
low temperature nearly all of the saccharine matter is con- 



Fresh F,ggs and Yellow Butter. 115 

verted into alcohol, which remains in the liquor instead of 
undergoing the process of acetification. 

The saccharine juice of apples, or any other fruit, should 
be kept at a temperature between 45° and 55°, but not to 
exceed 60°, when undergoing the vinous fermentation, by 
which the loss of the spirit resulting from the transformation 
of the alcohol into acetic acid, is prevented. The retention 
of the spirit in an unaltered state in the cider greatly enhances 
its quality, and by its conservative and chemical action 
precipitates the nitrogenous substances. 

Many persons, after making cider, leave it exposed to 
the sun, or in a temperature, ranging from 70° to 100° 
Fahr., which soon converts the alcohol formed by the decom- 
position of the sugar into vinegar, by the absorption of at- 
mospheric oxygen, and thus the cider acquires that peculiar 
and unwholesome acidity known as " rough" or "hard" cider. 

In practice, it has been found that. suur apples produce the 
best cider. This arises from the fact that they contain leas 
sugar and more malic acid, which acid impedes the conversion 
of alcohol into vinegar. But cider made from sour apples 
is not equal in quality to that prepared at a low temperature 
from sweet or sub-acid apples, which are rich in sugar. 

In Worcestershire and Herefordshire, England, the best 
cider-makers prepare cider by fermenting it, at a low tempera- 
ture, from selected, ripe, sub-acid apples. This cider remains 
in an unchanged condition for twenty-five years, and is fre- 
quently sold for champagne. 

In America much of the cider offered for sale is prepared 
from " selected cider apples" which are usually the half-rotten, 
small and unripe apples ; hence we have a diversity of 



l\fi Fresh J^ggs and Yellow jSuttefl 

flavored cider. Unripe and rotten apples do not contain 
sufficient sugar to undergo the proper vinous fermentation, 
and cider made from them becomes bitter and unpalatable, 
and frequently even putrefies. 

THE PRESERVATION AND FLAVORING OF CIDER. 

Cider made from sound, ripe apples, and having under- 
gone the vinous fermentation (in a cellar), at a temperature 
of from 45* to 55° Fahr., is in the half-hard or pleasantly 
acidulated state. 

Carefully rack or draw it, off, so as not to disturb the 
sediment, and strain through tine flannel into a clean barrel. 
When the barrel is half-filled, add 

Sulphite of Lime 4 ounces. 

Fresh-laid Eggs 8 in number. 






-&&- 



Beat up shells and all in a pint of the cider, stir into 

half a pailful of the cider for a few moments, and pour all 

into the half-barrel of cider. Then add 

Oil of Wintergreen 1 ounce. 

Oil of Sassafras \ ounce. 

Alcohol (95 per cent.) 1 pint. 

Mix. Shake well togecher for a few moments ; then pour 
it into the cider. Lastly, add five pounds of good raisins 
(bruised), and fill up the barrel with cider. (The reason for 
putting these articles in the cider when the barrel is half- 
tilled is, that they may be evenly mixed.) 

The barrel should then be bunged up tightly. In two or 
three weeks' time the cider will settle clear, have a fine 
flavor, and constitute a most wholesome beverage. 

The addition of the above cider-flavoring preservatives 
will not convert poor cider into good; neither will it change 



jPresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter 117 

sour into sweet cider, but it will arrest and prevent any farther 
fermentation. 

For the ordinary cider of commerce, the above process 
will give entire satisfaction. 

If flavoring be not desired, the essential oils of winter- 
green and sassafras may be omitted. 

Cider, the specific gravity of which is about 1 .060, consists 
of water, mucilage, sugar, malic acid, tartaric acid, tannic 
acid, etc. 

Cider is not valued principally for the alcohol it con- 
tains, but for its agreeable mixture of sugar and acid, form- 
ing a pleasant sub-acid, and when it reaches that state of 
fermentation which generates sufficient carbonic acid gas to 
saturate the water of the apple-juice, it is in the most whole- 
some and palatable state for a beverage. 

When cider has reached this state, it is ready for bottling; 
after which cork securely, place the bottles in a cool cellar, 
and it will keep for years. 

In making cider, the following rules should be observed : 

Slight fermentation will leave the cider thick and unpalat- 
able ; rapid fermentation will impair both its strength and 
durability ; excessive fermentation will make it sour, hard 
and thin. See that the fermentation proceeds at a tempera- 
ture between 45° and 55°, and it will not be confounded 
with acetous. 

100 lbs of apples will usually make eight gallons of cider. 

Good cider yields about nine per cent, of alcohol ; 

ordinary cider about four per cent. 

[Note. — Silphtjrgus Acid Gas, as developed by burning brimstone 
in the air, has long been known and used as a preservative agent. It is 



H8 ^BESH pGGS AND YELLOW f?UTTER 

composed of one equivalent of sulphur i 16) and two equivalents of oxygen 
(16), and therefore is represented by the chemical formula SO s . It is char- 
acterized by a strong affinity for an additional equivalent of oxygen, with 
which it combines, forming sulphuric acid, SO3. The process of fermen- 
tation, decay and putrefaction are all dependent upon oxydation. There- 
fore, if a substance be deprived of free oxygen, or if the free oxygen in 
proximity to it be monopolized by some other substance having a stronger 
affinity for it, its decay will be retarded, if not wholly prevented, while 
these conditions are maintained. 

Cider contains not only sugar, but nitrogenous matter in abundance, 
the decay or oxydation of which causes the sugar, as it were by sympathy, 
to decompose into carbonic acid gas, which partly escapes and partly re- 
mains, imparting its pungent prickling taste to the liquor, and into alcohol, 
which, being a liquid, remains dissolved in the water, and gives to the 
cider its intoxicating properties. The amount of oxygen necessary to 
effect the decomposition of the nitrogenized matter of the cider being very 
small, it always is present dissolved in the cider, so that filling vessels 
full and hermetrically sealing them is of no avail as a means of preventing 
fermentation. By boiling, this oxygen is temporarily expelled, but sop,n 
returns, unless its access is prevented. The addition of sulphurous acid, 
which is best effected by adding oue of its compounds, effectually mon- 
opolizes aud removes the oxygen which would otherwise cause fermenta- 
tion. For this purpose sulphite of soda or sulphite of lime is added to 
the cider, which is not thereby injured in flavor or rendered in any respect 
unwholesome.] 

CHAMPAGNE CIDER. 

Good Clear Cider, (slightly sour) 36 galls. 

Proof Spirit 2 " 

Strained Honey 10 lbs. 

Stir well together, and keep tightly bunged, allowing it 

to remain in a cool cellar for thirty days ; then add 

Skimmed Milk 1 quart. 

Old, Rich Cheese (in small pieces) 1 lb. 

Raisins, bruised to a pulp 8 lbs. 

After standing three or four weeks, it may be decanted 
into champagne bottles. Wire and cover the cork with tinfoil. 
It is far more wholesome than the genuine champagne. 

The bottle will open with a brisk report, and its contents 
pass for a good imitation of " imported " champagne. 



J^RESH pGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER 119 

CIDER WINE. 

Take new cider and boil it down one-half; add five 
pounds of bruised raisins to each barrel, and keep in a cool 
cellar. After it is one year old it will have the taste of 
Rhenish wine, and its flavor will continue to improve by age. 
When it is two years old it may be bottled, and will then pass 
for a good article of "imported wine." 

ARTIFICIAL CIDER. 

Take a barrel from which sugar-house sirup has just been 

been drawn out, and put into it 

Good Sugar-house Sirup 3 gallons. 

Hot Water 5 gallons. 

Stir well together, and let it stand one hour. Then add 

Tartaric Acid 12 ounces. 

Dried Sour Apples 7 lbs. 

Before adding the apples, pour on three gallons of hot 
water and let them stand two or three hours. Finally add 
Cold Water 30 gallons. 

Keep the barrel (with the bung out, and covered with. 

gauze to keep out flies, etc.,) where the thermometer ranges 

from 60° to 70° for two or three days, or until the cider 

becomes pleasantly acidulated. Then add 

Oil of Wintergreen 1 ounce. 

Oil of Sassafras i " 

Alcohol i pint. 

Mix, shake well together, and pour into the barrel, which 
bung up and roll about until its contents are well mixed. 

Keep it in a cool cellar. 

This makes a wholesome summer beverage. 

If it should, in the course of time, become too sour to 
drink, it will make good vinegar. 



120 Fresh F.ggs and Yellow Butter. 

But by adding the sulphite of lime and eggs, as recom- 
mended for the preservation of cider, it will keep a long time. 

CIDER — WITHOUT APPLES. 

Take a sirup barrel, as above directed, and pour into it 

Good Sugar-house Sirup 3 gallons. 

Hot Water 5 " 

Stir well, and let stand one hour. Then add 

Cold Water 32 gallons. 

Tartaric Acid 12 ounces. 

Brewers' or Hop Yeast 2 cpuarts. 

Stir well together, or roll the barrel about until well 
mixed. If kept with the bung out, at a temperature between 
60° and 70°, it will be good cider in forty-eight hours. 

Then keep in a cool place. 

This cider will remain good but a short time unless kept 
at a temperature below 45°. 

All the above preparations constitute perfectly whole- 
some summer beverages. 

sweet cider — [Imitation.) 

Water (warm) 35 gallons. 

Honey (strained) 20 pounds. 

Catechu Gum (powdered) 1 ounce. 

Alum (powdered) 2 ounces. . 

Yeast (Brewers' or Hop) 1 pint. 

Ferment for two weeks, at a temperature from 60° to 

75°. Then add 

Nutmeg (powdered) 1 ounce. 

Cloves (powdered) 1 ounce. 

If too sweet, add good cider vinegar to suit the taste. If 
too sour, add more honey. 



Fresh }£ggs and Yellow Butter. 121 

cider — (Imitation.) 

Water (warm) 35 gallous. 

Sulphuric Acid | pound. 

(Or, sufficient to make the water pleasantly sour.) 
Sugar-house Sirup 6 gallons. 

Stir well together, and let stand twelve hours. 

Boil in one gallon of water one hour : 

Alum (pulverized) 3 ounces. 

Cloves (pulverized) 4 ounces. 

Ginger (pulverized) 4 ounces. 

Bitter Almonds (pulverized) 4 ounces. 

Add to the first, when nearly cool. It will be ready to 

use in twenty-four hours. 

BOTTLING OR CANNING SWEET CIDER. 

Boil sweet cider about ten minutes, in tin cans or bottles. 
Immediately cork, and hermetrieally seal while hot. 

Cider thus prepared will keep fresh and sweet for years, 
if the vessels are kept air-tight. 

The juices of grapes, currants, blackberries, etc., may be 
preserved in the same manner, and are considered more 
wholesome than wine. 

PERRY. 

This beverage — " wine of pears" — is prepared from 
pears in a manner similar to the manufacture of cider from 
apples, and is a wholesome and pleasant drink. 

MEAD. 

Mead is a liquor prepared from honey diluted with water, 

and fermented. It is the Hydromel of the Romans. Pliny 

records, and Virgil celebrates this drink, made of honey 

mixed with fruits. 

(Our Improved Process.) 

Strained Honey 100 pounds. 

Hot Water 30 gallons. 



122 Fresh F-ggs and Yellow Butter 

Stir thoroughly and simmer for one hour. Remove the 
scum, and when about cool, add 
Fresh Hops li pounds. 

Put all together in a sugar-house sirup barrel. Stir well, 
and allow the barrel to remain, with the bung out, at a tem- 
perature of from 55° to 65° for three or four weeks, or until 
fermentation takes place. Then add : 

Cinnamon Bark, pulverized \ ounce. 

Cloves, pulverized J " 

Ginger-root, pulverized 2 " 

Mace, pulverized \ " 

Nutmegs, pulverized 1 " 

Dried Cherries, pulverized 4 " 

Dried Raspberries, pulverized 8 " 

Stir all together; bung up the barrel, and keep it in a 
cool cellar for six months or a year. Then it may be bottled 
for use. 



•pRESH pGGS AND JeLLOW ^UITER, 123 



S I II U I\ 

Sirup is a thick solution of sugar in water, and when only 
sugar and water are employed it is called Simple Sirup, which 
forms the basis of Flavored or Medicated Sirups. 

In the preparation of sirups, only the refined sugar 
should be used, as they will then be less liable to spontaneous 
decomposition, and if the water is pure, the sirup will be per- 
fectly transparent, without the trouble of clarification. If 
too small a proportion of sugar is employed, the sirup is 
liable to ferment; but if too great a quantity is used, crystals 
of sugar will be deposited. 

The following is the best formula : 

Pure White Sugar 8 pounds. 

Pure Cold Water 2 quarts. 

Mix together, in a tin or porcelain vessel, occasionally 
stirring, for one or two hours ; then place the vessel in a hot 
water-bath, and allow it to remain about one hour, or until 
the sugar is all dissolved. The sirup should then be removed, 
and, when cool, bottled or put in jugs for use. When pre- 
paring sirup, do not allow it to boil, but it may simmer for 
a minute or two. Remove from the fire as soon as made, 
because a long continued heat will impair its efficiency. 

The proper degree of concentration is 30°, Baume's sac- 
charometer, when boiling, and 35° when cold; or, specific 



124 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow ^utter. 

gravity when boiling 1,261, and when cold 1,320. Its boiling- 
point is 221°. A gallon of this sirup weighs 12 pounds. 

Sirups, when kept at a high temperature, sometimes 
undergo the vinous fermentation, but they may be restored by 
boiling for a few moments, which expels the alcohol and 
carbonic acid. Sirups thus recovered are less liable to 
subsequent changes, as the fermenting principles have been 
decreased or consumed. 

Simple sirup, prepared as above directed, is a choice and 
delicious article for the table, more wholesome than molasses 
or sugar-house sirup, and far preferable in flavor. 



Fresh F.ggs and Yellow j3utter 125 



"SODA," OR FLAVORED SIRUPS. 

lemon sirup — [Imitation.) 

Citric Acid, pulverized 1 ounce. 

Oil of Lemon 20 drops. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Rub the citric acid and oil of lemon with four ounces of 
the sirup in a mortar; then add the mixture to the remainder 
of the sirup, and dissolve by a moderate heat over a water-bath. 

When cool, bottle for use. 

A table-spoonful of this sirup, added to a glass of cold 
water, forms an agreeable extemporaneous lemonade and 
refrigerant beverage. 

"When water is charged with carbonic acid gas it constitutes 
what is known as "soda-water," to which this and other 
flavored sirups are added. 

[Note — Carbonic aci'l gasis obtained from powdered marble by 
means of diluted sulphuric acid. See process for manufacturing carbonic 
acid gas.] 

lemon si r up — ( Genuin e. ) 

Cut off the ends of lemons and squeeze out the juice ...1 quart. 
Add Pure White Sugar 3 lbs. 

Cut up and add the rinds of two lemons. Simmer a 
few minutes in a porcelain vessel ; then strain, and when 
cool put into bottles or jugs for use, and keep in a cool cellar. 
To be used in the same manner and for the same purpose 
as the imitation " lemon sirup." 



12fi Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 

CREAM SIRUP. 

Simple Sirup 2 quarts. 

Sweet, Rich Cream 1 " 

Heat gradually together in a water-bath for half an hour. 

When cool, bottle for use. To flavor cream sirup, add 

Fluid Extract of Vanilla 1 ounce. 

Fluid Extract of Nutmeg J " 

Used with carbonic acid water, commonly known as 
soda-water. 

GINGER SIRUP. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Fluid Extract of Jamaica Ginger 1 ounce. 

Mix. Heat, and stir half an hour over a water-bath. 
When cool, bottle for use. 

ORANGE SIRUP. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Essence (" Extract ") of Orange J ounce. 

Mix, and proceed as for ginger sirup. 

SARSAPARILLA SIRUP. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Oil of Wintergreen 40 drops. 

Oil of Sassafras 40 " 

Dissolve the Oils in Deodorized Alcohol 2 ounces. 

Mix, and shake well together. 

strawberry sirup — ( Genuine.) 

Expressed Juice of Ripe Strawberries 1 quart. 

White Sugar 4 pounds. 

Mix, and simmer a few minutes, or until the sugar is 
dissolved, in a porcelain kettle. Strain, and when cool put 
in bottles or jugs for use. Keep in a cool cellar. 



Fresh F^ggs and Yellow ^utter. 127 

strawberry si rup — ( Imitation . ) 

Tincture of Orris Root | ounce. 

Acetic Ether 40 drops. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 

raspberry sirup — ( Genuine. ) 

Expressed Juice of Ripe Raspberries 1 quart. 

White Sugar 4 pounds. 

Simmer a few minutes in a porcelain kettle, until the 
sugar is dissolved. Strain, and when cool put in bottles or 
jugs, and keep in a cool cellar. 

raspberry sirup — (Imitation.) 

Tincture of Orris Root jounce. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 

pine-apple sirup — ( Genuine. ) 

Expressed Juice of the ripest and best flavored 

Pine-apples 1 quart. 

White Sugar 4 pounds. 

Simmer a few minutes in a porcelain kettle until the 
sugar is dissolved ; strain, and when cool put into bottles or 
jugs, and keep in a cool cellar. 

pine- apple sirup — (Imitation. ) 

Butyric Ether (called " Pine-apple Oil ") 50 drops. 

Dissolve in Deodorized Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 ounce. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 

BLACKBERRY SIRUP. 

Expressed Juice of ripe Blackberries 1 quart. 

White Sugar 4 pounds. 



] 28 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

Simmer a few minutes in a porcelain kettle, until the 
sugar is dissolved ; strain, and when cool put in bottles or 
jugs, and keep in a cool cellar. 

VANILLA SIRUP. 

Essence of Vanilla 1 ounce. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 

ROSE SIRUP. 

Essence (" Extract ") of Roses 1 ounce. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 

PEACH SIRUP. 

Expressed Juice of ripe, good Peaches 1 quart. 

YV hite Sugar 4 pounds. 

Simmer a few minutes in a porcelain kettle, until the 

sugar is dissolved ; strain, and when cool put in bottles or 

jugs, and keep in a cool cellar. 

COFFEE SIRUP. 

Essence ("Extract") of Coffee 1 ounce. 

Simple Sirup 1 gal Ion . 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 

W I NTE RG RE EN SIRUP. 

Essence (" Extract ") of Wintergreen 1 ounce. 

Sim pie Si rup 1 gal Ion . 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use 

ORGEAT SIRUP. 

Essence ("Extract") of Orgeat 1 ounce. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 



J^RESH JiGGS AND JeLLOW ^UTTER 129 

NUTMEG SIRUP. 

Essence ("Extract") of Nutmeg 1 ounce. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 

MACE SIRUP. 

Essence (" Extract ") of Mace 1 ounce. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 

CINNAMON SIRUP. 

Essence (" Extract ") of Cinnamon 1 ounce. 

Simple Sirup 1 gallon. 

Stir well together, and it will be ready for use. 

COLORING FOR SIRUPS. 

Cochineal is used to color the strawberry imitation sirup, 
and gives it a beautiful red tint. Wintergreen, raspberry 
and sarsaparilla sirups are usually colored with tincture of 
camwood; lemon and ginger sirups with tincture of turmeric ; 
pine-apple requires no coloring. Various shades may be pro- 
duced in the sirups, according to the quantity of the above 
tinctures added. 

COCHINEAL FOR COLORING. 

Powdered Cochineal 2 ounces. 

Water 1 quart. 

Boil together for a few minutes in a porcelain kettle. 

While boiling, add 

Cream of Tartar | ounce. 

Alum, in Powder | " 

When the coloring matter is all extracted from the coch- 
ineal, strain and bottle for use. 

Most of the sirups used for soda-water are imitations of the 
genuine, because they are less expensive. The fruit sirups 



130 j^RESH pGGS AND JeLLOW J3UTTER. 

should all be made from expressed juices, as directed in the 
foregoing formulas. A glass of the ordinary soda-water 
pontains about two table-spoonsful of flavored sirup — the 
remainder of the beverage being water charged with carbonic 
acid gas, drawn from the fountain. 

When the fountain is charged with a solution of carbonate 
of soda in water, each gallon of the flavored sirups should 
have added to it three-fourths of an ounce of tartaric acid, 
dissolved in a little water. But in most of the fountains, at 
the present time, neither soda nor tartaric acid is used. 

PORTABLE LEMONADE. 

Citric Acid, in powder 3 ounces. 

Pure W hite Sugar, powdered 2 pounds. 

Oil of Lemon 15 drops. 

Mix well together, and keep in a closely corked bottle. 

A tea-spoonful of this, added to a tumbler-ful of cold 
water, forms a wholesome and agreeable beverage. Travelers 
will find this a convenient way of procuring a pleasant and 
refreshing drink, at any time or place. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 131 



VEGETABLE AND ROOT BEERS. 

SPRUCE BEER. 

Essence of Spruce 1 pint. 

Bruised Ginger 8 ounces. 

Allspice, bruised 4 " 

Hops 8 " 

Cold Water 5 gallons. 

Mix and stir occasionally for five or six hours. Then 

boil for fifteen minutes. Strain, and pour into a clean barrel) 

and add 

Warm Water 20 gallons. 

Sugar-house Sirup 1J " 

Brewers' Yeast, or good Hop Yeast 1 quart. 

Mix altogether, and allow it to remain, for fermentation, 

in a room where the temperature is between 60° and 70°. 

If the bung be left out of the barrel for six hours, the beer 

will have fermented ; bung up, and it will be ready for use 

in twenty-four hours. It forms a wholesome and medicinal 

beverage. Keep the beer in a cool cellar. 

[Note. — To prepare the essence or extract of spruce, mentioned above, 
simmer one pound of young spruce twigs in half a gallon of water, for 
twenty or thirty minutes. Then strain and bottle for use. It should be 
used immediately, or within a few hours, unless it is kept in a very cool 
place.] 

.SARSAPARILLA COMPOUND ROOT BEER. 

Hops 1 ounce. 

Sassafras Bark | " 

Burdock Root 1 " 

Dandelion Root 1 " 

Sarsaparilla Root 2 ounces 

Spikenard Root 1 ounce. 



132 J^RESH ^GGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER. 

All these roots should be crushed or cut into small pieces, 
and may be either green or dry. Place them in suitable 
vessels, and add 
Cold Water • 2 gallons. 

Stir occasionally for six hours, and then simmer altogether 

for one hour. Strain, while warm, and add 

Brewers', or Hop Yeast, half a tea-cupful. 

Sugar-house Sirup 1 pint. 

Mix altogether in a jug and shake thoroughly. Let the 
jug remain in a warm room, for six hours, uncorked. Then 
cork and keep it in a cool place. 

This is a delightful spring beverage, alterative in its 
effects, and may prevent attacks of illness. 

LEMON BEER. 

Four Lemons, cut into thin slices. 

Ginger, ground 4 ounces. 

Sugar-house Sirup i gallon. 

Brewers' or Hop Yeast 1 pint. 

Mix the lemons and ginger in half a gallon of warm 
water. Let the mixture stand in a warm place for six hours, 
and then simmer for about one hour. It is then to be put 
into a barrel and the sirup and yeast added. Then add 
Warm Water 12 gallons. 

Ferment in a warm place, with the bung out, for six 
hours, then bung up tightly ; after which remove the beer 
to a cool place. 

GINGER BEER. 

Ground Ginger 3 ounces. 

Simmer it in two quarts of water for half an hour. Add 

Honey, strained 4 ounces. 

Juice of 2 lemons. 



J^RESH pGGS AND JELLOW BUTTER 133 

Stir well together, and strain while warm. Add 

Warm Water 2 J gallons. 

Sugar-house Sirup 3 pints. 

Put all into a jug and shake well together. Keep the 
jug, uncorked, in a warm room, for twenty-four hours, or 
until it ferments. Then cork and keep in a cool cellar. 

CORN BEER. 

Warm Water 2 gallons. 

Sound Corn 1 pint. 

Sugar-house Sirup 1 quart. 

Put altogether in a jug, which must be tightly corked 
and kept in a warm room. It will be in a condition for 
drinking in about three or four days. 

ROOT BEER. 

American Sarsaparilla Root (powdered') 1 pound. 

Guaiac Chips 8 ounces. 

Birch Bark 3 ounces. 

Sassafras Bark 2 ounces. 

Prickly Ash Bark i ounce. 

Spice Wood 4 ounces. 

Hops 8 ounces. 

Water, warm 3 gallons. 

Stir well together, and let it stand six hours ; then sim- 
mer for three hours, stirring occasionally. Strain while 
warm. Then add 

Tincture of Ginger 4 ounces. 

Oil of Wintergreen 1 ounce. 

Dissolved in Alcohol 1 pint. 

Shake well together. Then add 

Warm Water 28 gallons. 

Sugar-house Sirup 2 gallons. 

Yeast 3 quarts. 

9 



134 



Fresh Jiggs and Yellow Butter. 



Bung up the cask, and if kept at a temperature of from 
60° to 75° for twenty-four hours, it will be in good state for 
a beverage. 

This, if properly fermented, may be used in fountains, as 
there will be a sufficient pressure of carbonic acid to force up 
the beer in the manner of soda-water. 



Fresh Fxigs and Jellow Butter. 135 



WINES. 

CURRANT WINE. 

Expressed Juice of Currants, strained 30 gallons. 

White Sugar 105 pounds. 

Mix, and pour into a barrel, with the bung out, which 
place in a cool cellar where the thermometer indicates a tem- 
perature of about 50° Fahr. Cover the bung-hole with 
gauze, to exclude flies and dust. Let it remain undisturbed 
for four or five weeks. Then put in the bung. It may be 
left in the barrel, or bottled, and will improve by age. No 
spirits are required to increase its strength. 

RHUBARB WINE. 

Expressed Juice of Rhubarb, or Pie-plant, 

strained 20 gallons. 

White Sugar 150 pounds. 

Warm Water 10 gallons. 

Mix altogether in a barrel, put into a cool cellar, and let 

it ferment for five or six weeks, covering the bung-hole with 

gauze, to keep out flies and dust. Then put in the bung, 

and at the end of two or three months it should be bottled. 

It will be fit for use, however, as soon as fermentation has 

fully ceased. 

TOMATO WINE. 

Expressed Juice of the garden Tomato, strained. 30 gallons. 
White Sugar 1 20 pounds. 

Mix, and put into a barrel, which place in a cool cellar, 

leaving the bung-hole open, but covered with gauze, to 

exclude insects and dust. Let it remain undisturbed for 



136 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow j3utter. 

five or six weeks. Then put in the bung. Whether left in 
the barrel or bottled, it will improve by age, and be ready 
for use at any time. It is a very excellent and healthful 
beverage. 

BLACKBERRY WINE. 

Expressed Juice of Blackberries, strained 30 gallons. 

"White Sugar 80 pounds. 

Mix in a barrel, which must be bunged, and place 

in a cool cellar. In two or three months it will become 

splendid wine. 

port wine — (Imitation?) 

Wild Grapes (bruised to a pulp, without breaking 

the seeds) 50 pounds. 

Elder Berries (bruised to a pulp, without breaking 

the seeds) 10 pounds. 

White Sugar •' >0 pounds. 

Warm Water 30 gallons. 

Mix together in a barrel, which must be placed in a cool 
cellar. Leave it undisturbed for five or six weeks, to ferment, 
keeping out dust and flies by covering the bung-hole with 
gauze. Then put in the bung, and bottle at convenience, 
leaving the sediment in the barrel. Add no spirits. This is 
better than much of the " superior port " of the shops. 

port wine — (Genuine.) 

Cider (sweet) 30 gallons. 

Alcohol, 95 percent 6 gallons. 

Into another vessel put 
Extract of Logwood (pulverized) If pounds. 

Simmer in four gallons of water one hour, and add to 

the cider and alcohol while warm. Then add 

Alum (pulverized) li pounds. 

Cream of Tartar 1 pound. 

White Sugar 24 pounds. 



Fresh Jiggs and Yellow Butter. 137 

Stir well together, and roll the cask occasionally for one 
clay. Allow it to settle for a few clays, and it is ready for use. 

This makes a native wine extensively used in America as 
an "imported" wine. 

ISABELLA OR CATAWBA WINE. 

Ripe Grapes (bruised to a pulp in a barrel, 

without breaking the seeds) 100 pounds. 

Warm Water 3 gallons. 

Stir well together, and let stand for three or four clays in 
a cool cellar. Then express the juice, strain, and add 
White Sugar 60 pounds. 

After standing thirty days, or until fermentation ceases, 
it should be drawn or racked off and strained. It may be 
kept in bottles or in casks. 

APPLE WINE. 

Cider, fresh from the press 30 gallons. 

White Sugar 40 pounds. 

Proceed as directed in the process for making currant wine. 

STRAWBERRY WINE. 

Expressed Juice of Strawberries, strained 30 gallons. 

White Sugar 1 20 pounds. 

Proceed, in all respects, as prescribed in the formula for 

making currant wine. 

RASPBERRY WINE. 

Expressed Juice of Raspberries, strained 30 gallons. 

White Sugar 70 pounds. 

Mix together in a barrel, and continue the process as 

directed for currant wine. 

ELDERBERRY WINE. 

Expressed Juice of Elderberries, strained 30 gallons. 

White Sugar 70 pounds. 



138 ^RESH JlGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER 

After mixing the materials in a barrel, proceed in all 
particulars as in the process for making currant wine. 

GINGER WINE. 

Ginger (ground) 1 pound. 

Hot Water 10 gallons. 

Simmer gently for one hour ; then add 

White Sugar 20 pounds. 

Lemons, sliced.. 2 pounds. 

Continue to simmer for thirty minutes longer, and then 
remove from the fire. 

When nearly cold, add 
Yeast | pint. 

Put all together in a barrel, and ferment as directed in the 
preparation of other wines. When fermentation ceases, rack 
off the wine, and bottle when clear. 



Fresh F.ggs and Yellow Hotter, 139 



VINEGAR. 

{Acetum.~) 
Vinegar has been known for thousands of years. It is 
mentioned by Moses, and was in common use among the 
Israelites. In that age it was made from wine. Vinegar 
was also in common use among the Greeks and Romans, who 
employed it in their cookery, and as medicine. 

ITS PROPERTIES. 

As a condiment, vinegar is refreshing, and, if used 
moderately, is wholesome. It appears to render fatty and 
gelatinous food more digestible ; but if used in excess is 
injurious to the stomach. 

HOW VINEGAR IS FORMED. 

Sugar and water, and all saccharine vegetable juices, in- 
fusions of malt, wine, cider, and all liquors susceptible of 
vinous fermentation, may be converted into vinegar by 
exposure to a temperature between 75° and 90° Fahr., with 
access of air. They undergo an action called acetous fer- 
mentation, and which is developed under the influence of a 
microscopic fungus termed torula aceti. The several changes 
which occur during this fermentation are included in the 
term aceti fication, during the progress of which heat is disen- 
gaged, the liquid becomes turbid, and filaments are formed, 
which move in numerous directions, and, finally, the liquid 
becomes transparent, with a pultaceous deposit of the fila- 
ments ; its alcohol has disappeared, and vinegar now occupies 
its place. 



140 ^resh JSggs and Yellow Butter. 

This change is supposed to take place in consequence of 
the formation of a new substance called Aldehyd, the result 
of the loss of a part of the hydrogen of the alcohol. Alcohol 
consists of four equivalents of carbon, six of hydrogen, and 
two of oxygen. Through the action of the atmosphere it 
loses two equivalents of hydrogen, and becomes aldehyd. 

Hydrated acetic acid consists of four equivalents, each, of 
carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. One equivalent of water is 
basic, and may be replaced by any metalic oxyd. 

Aldehyd is an ethereal fluid, very inflammable and color- 
less, with a pungent taste and smell ; its density is 0.79. It 
absorbs oxygen with avidity. 

Its name has reference to its character — alcohol dehy- 
drogenized. 

Aldehyd Resin, a soft, light-brown mass, giving a nauseous, 
soapy smell when heated to 212°, is formed by decomposing 
the aqueous solution of aldehyd with caustic potassa. 

CIDER VINEGAR. 

The cider is placed in barrels with the bung-holes open, 
and exposed to a temperature between 75° and 90° Fahr. 
The acetification is perfected in about two months. This 
fermentation must be watched during its progress, and as 
soon as vinegar is formed it must be racked off into clean 
barrels; otherwise it will become spoiled by running into 
the putrefactive fermentation. 

Vinegar is also made by various other methods, many of 
which require a comparatively short time for its formation. 
A pint of boiling milk added to forty gallons of vinegar, and 
stirred into it, will clarify it without injuring its aroma, and 
will also render red vinegar pale. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 141 

MANUFACTURE OF VINEGAR. 

The true nature of the process of making vinegar quickly 
consists in the mere oxydation of alcohol in contact with 
organic matter, which is effected by exposing the largest 
surface of a vinegar-making fluid of proper temperature to 
atmospheric air, by means of a perforated vinegar generator, 
in which are placed beech, maple or basswood shavings, or corn 
cobs, through which the fluid passes and slowly drips into a 
vessel beneath. As the fluid passes slowly through the shav- 
ings, there is exposed a large surface of it to the air, oxygen 
is absorbed, and the temperature of the fluid rises to 104° 
Fahr., remaining stationary at that point, while the action 
goes on favorably. 

The fluid may be passed through the generator two or 
three times, if it should not prove of sufficient strength at 
first ; and thus vinegar may be made in from twenty-four to 
forty-eight hours. 

MANUFACTURE OF VINEGAR — (QUICK PROCESSES.) 

Number One. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 gallon. 

Good Vinegar 1 quart. 

Soft Water, warmed to 75° 15 gallons. 

Yeast 1 pint. 

Mix and pass through a vinegar generator. 

Number Two. 

Pure Cider 2 gallons. 

Water, warmed to 75° 1 gallon. 

Mix and pass through a vinegar generator. 



142 j^RESH jiGGS AND YELLOW J3UTTER. 

Number Three; 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 gallon. 

Molasses 1 quart. 

Soft Water, warmed to 75° 14 gallons. 

Good Vinegar 1 quart. 

Mix and pass through a vinegar generator. 

MANUFACTURE OF VINEGAR — (SLOW PROCESSES.) 

Number One. 

Good Molasses 3 gallons. 

Soft Water, warmed to 75° 30 gallons. 

Yeast 1 quart. 

Mix well together, and keep in a warm temperature in a 
barrel, with its bung out and the hole covered over with 
gauze, to keep out flies. 

Number Two. 

Acetic Acid, pure 4 pounds. 

Molasses 1 gallon. 

Warm Water, soft 35 gallons. 

Mix, and keep at from 75° to 90° Fahr., and it will 
become vinegar in about twenty days. 

INSTANTANEOUS PROCESS. 

Acetic Acid, pure 1 pound. 

Pure Water 6 pints. 

Mix. 

HOW TO CONSTRUCT A VINEGAR GENERATOR. 

To construct a vinegar generator, or graduation vessel, 
simply prepare an oaken tub, narrower at the bottom than at 
the top, and furnished with a loose lid or cover. The tub 
may be of any convenient size, from six feet to ten or 
twenty feet high, and from two to four or five feet in diam- 
eter. The higher and more capacious the tub, the greater the 
quantity of vinegar which can be generated in a given time. 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter 143 

Below the lid, or cover, is placed a perforated shelf, or 
false bottom, having a number of small holes filled with 
pack-threads, extending down six inches and prevented from 
falling through by knots at their upper ends. The shelf is 
also perforated with four open glass tubes, as air vents, each 
having its ends projecting above and below the shelf. The 
tub, at its lower part, is pierced with a horizontal row of 
eight or ten equidistant, round holes, to admit atmospheric 
air. One inch above the bottom is a syphon discharge-pipe, 
whose upper curvature stands one inch below the level of the 
air-holes in the side of the tub. The body of the tub being 
filled with beech-wood shavings, the alcoholic liquor, which 
should be at a temperature of from 75° to 80° Fahr, is placed 
on the shelf. It trickles slowly down through the holes by 
means of the pack-threads, diffuses itself over the shavings, 
and runs off by the syphon-pipe. The air enters by the cir- 
cumferential holes, circulates freely through the tub, and 
escapes through the glass tubes. As the oxygen is absorbed, 
the temperature of the liquid rises from 100° to 104° Fahr., 
and remains stationary at that point, while the operation goes 
on favorably. 

It will be necessary to pass the liquor through three or 
four times before acetification is complete, which generally 
requires twenty-four hours. 

A cheap, extemporaneous vinegar generator may also be 
constructed by placing new oak barrels (the heads being re- 
moved) one above the other, until the pile is five or six 
barrels high, or less. Have them securely fastened, by 
nailing strips of boards on the outside of the barrels. Per- 
forate the barrels, and arrange as described above. To secure 



144 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 

the joints against leakage, where the barrels rest upon each 
other, make a thorough application of paraffin wax, applied 
while hot. 

ANOTHER MODE OF CONSTRUCTING A GENERATOR. 

Take six new oak barrels, or those which have been used 
for vinegar or molasses, respectively numbering them from 
one to six. Remove one head from each. With a three- 
quarter inch auger, then bore fifteen holes through the sides 
of each barrel, an equal distance apart, all slanting towards 
the bottom of the barrel, (to prevent the vinegar from run- 
ning out on the side). These holes should be about twelve 
inches above the lower end of the barrel. Set the barrels 
side by side, and insert a faucet in each, near the bottom. 
Fill up the barrels with thick beech, maple, or bass wood 
shavings, which must be new and planed from the edges 
of inch-boards. They should be each about two feet long, 
and formed into rolls. Clean corn-cobs, however, will serve 
the same purpose for a few months, but for permanent and 
continued manufacture the shavings are preferable. When 
cobs are used, they should be put in the barrels in layers, 
crossing each other, to prevent their becoming too closely 
packed, and over all, when the barrel is nearly filled with 
cobs, should be laid shavings, to the depth of about six inches. 
Pine shavings must be avoided in making vinegar. Cover 
over the top of the shavings or cobs a flannel cloth, for the 
purpose of retaining the heat generated in the barrel by oxy- 
dation during the chemical transformation. Then gradually 
pour all over the cloth, in each barrel, one gallon of good 
vinegar, for the purpose of souring the shavings or cobs. Let 
the barrels stand unmolested one day, when the vinegar must 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 145 

be drawn from them by means of the faucet in each. The 
next day pour on the alcohol, vinegar and water, as recom- 
mended in either number one, number two, or number three 
process. 

For example : Heat two gallons, prepared according to 
the number one formula, to 80° Fahr., and pour it carefully 
over the cloth in barrel number one. Repeat this process 
every hour during the day. After six hours have elapsed, 
draw off all that has settled in the bottom and pour it 
over the cloth in barrel number two, at the rate of one 
gallon every half-hour. It will drip slowly through the 
shavings, and, as fast as it drips through, pass the same liquor 
into all the remaining barrels in rotation, and in the same 
manner. Continue to pour the fluid through barrel number 
one, as before described, and so on through each other 
barrel. When the liquid has passed through all the barrels, 
as it will within thirty-six hours from the commencement, 
if the barrels have been kept in a room where the temperature 
ranges between 75° and 90° Fahr., the vinegar will be found 
good, sharp, pure and wholesome. If stronger vinegar is 
required, it can be passed again through one, two, or more 
of the barrels, until the desired strength is obtained. It is 
essential that the temperature of the room in which the 
vinegar is made should be neither less than 75° nor more 
than 90°. 

TO DECOLORIZE VINEGAR. 

When a colorless vinegar is required, add to each gallon 
of vinegar one pound of coarsely-powdered animal charcoal, 
and stir occasionally for two or three days. Allow the 
mixture to rest three or four days ; then draw off and strain 



146 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 

the vinegar, which, if well prepared charcoal has been used, 
will be colorless, and similar to white wine vinegar. 

FRUIT VINEGARS. 

Various fruits yield saccharine juices, which, at a tem- 
perature ranging from 60° to 100°, spontaneously pass first 
through vinous and then acetous fermentation, resulting in 
vinegar, the odor and flavor of which, in some degree, cor- 
respond to the fruit from which the juice was expressed. But 
currants, gooseberries, pie-plant (rhubarb), and various other 
excessively acid substances, are deficient in sugar, which must 
be added to secure fermentation. 

Vinegar may be strengthened by freezing it and removing 
the ice which forms on the surface. It is only the water of 
the vinegar which freezes, leaving* the acetic acid in solution 
in the remaining water. 

VINEGAR REFINED BY BOILING. 

If vinegar be boiled a few seconds in a covered porcelain 
or glass vessel, the heat will congulate the albuminous and 
mucilaginous substances contained in it. If it be then 
strained through flannel, and put into bottles, which should 
be kept well corked, it will remain in a good condition for a 
long time. 

VINEGAR REFINED BY DISTILLATION. 

Distill vinegar until about two-thirds of it has passed 
over. The impurities, not being volatile, are left behind. 
The part distilled is nearly pure acetic acid. Dilute this with 
water to the proper strength for vinegar. This is known as 
distilled vinegar. 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 147 

GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR. 

Reduce eight gallons of ripe gooseberries to a pulp, and, 
having placed them in a suitable barrel, add twenty-five 
gallons of warm water. Stir occasionally during one day. 
Then strain through coarse flannel, and add either six gallons 
of sugar-house sirup, or forty-eight pounds of brown sugar, 
or, if preferred, fifty pounds of strained honey. Mix well 
together, and keep at a warm temperature, leaving the bung- 
hole of the barrel open, but covered with fine gauze to keep 
out flies, dust, etc. 

RHUBARB VINEGAR. 

Rhubarb (pie-plant) vinegar may be formed from the 
juice of the stalk of the rhubarb plant, by adding of warm 
water four times the weight of the juice, and one and a half 
pounds of brown sugar to each gallon of the juice thus 
diluted. Ferment in the manner previously described. 

But the quantity of sugar required to produce the vinous 
fermentation renders the juices of fruits and vegetables a very 
expensive material for making vinegar. Furthermore, they 
do not produce any better vinegar than that made from 
three gallons of molasses and thirty gallons of water. 

THE ADULTERATIONS OF VINEGAR. 

Sulphuric, nitric and muriatic acids are sometimes used 
to impart acidity to vinegar. Burnt sugar is often added for 
coloring, and acetic ether to give it a pleasant flavor. Vinegar 
not containing more than one-thousandth part of mineral 
acid is not injurious, and preserves better than pure vinegar. 
Still we do not advise the adulteration of vinegar with any 
of the mineral acids. 



148 Fresh J£ggs and Yellow Butter. 

TO DETECT SULPHURIC ACID IX VINEGAR. 

Take of the Suspected Vinegar 4 ounces. 

Starch (common) 1 drachm. 

Agitate, and add 
Iodine 5 grains. 

Shake well together. 

If the vinegar is pure, the presence of iodine will change 
its color to a blue tint ; but if sulphuric acid is present, no 
such reaction will take place, for the resultant of starch in its 
presence is glucose, a substance not affected by iodine. 

WINE VINEGAR. 

When wine passes through the acetous fermentation, it is 
denominated " wine vinegar," and contains not only acetic, 
but also citric and tartaric acids, together with a small 
quantity of acetic ether, which gives it an agreeable flavor, 
and is in no respect injurious. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

No attempt should be made to run the solution of sugar 
or diluted sirup through the generator, during the process 
of making vinegar, as a mucilaginous substance, called 
" mother," forms, which soon fills up the apertures of the 
generator, and arrests the operation. Sirup, however much 
diluted, should always be converted into vinegar by the slow 
processes, in barrels. Use only the alcoholic preparation in 
the generator, as set forth in the quick processes. 

THE STRENGTH OF VINEGAR. 

The pleasant and refreshing odor of vinegar is derived 
from acetic acid and acetic ether. 

The strength of vinegar is designated by the manufacturer 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 140 

by numbers, as follows : 18, 20, 22, and 24 — the latter number 
representing the strongest, which contains about five per cent, 
of anhydrous acetic acid, and is known as u proof vinegarr 
In order that these numbers may be more fully understood, 
the following tables are introduced to indicate the saturative 
power and specific gravity of vinegar, as well as to explain 
the technical terms employed by manufacturers : 

1 oz. No. 18 viae»ar requires IS grs. pure, dry carbonate of soda for complete neutralization. 

1 oz. " 20 " " 20 •' •' " " " " " « •' 

j oz ct 23 .. » 22 " " " " '■ " " " '• 

loa. •' 24 " " 24 " " " " " 

The ounce of vinegar is liquid measure. 

The specific gravity of No. 18 Vinegar is 1006 

The specific gravity of No. 20 Vinegar is 1012 

The specific gravity of No. 22 Vinegar is 1019 

The specific gravity of No. 24 Vinegar is 1035 

Vinegar No. 24 is " Proof," 5° by the acetometre, or " 1 
Vinegar." 
5° Overproof (or O. P.), is 10°, or " 2 Vinegars." 
10° Overproof (or O. P.j, is 15°, or " 3 Vinegars," etc. 

One fluid-ounce of vinegar termed " extra strength" will 

saturate 32 grains of pure, dry carbonate of soda. 



10 



150 



r* 



ID Jl 



TINCTURES. 

[Tinctures are solutions of medicinal substances in diluted or strong 
alcohol.] 

TINCTURE OF CAMPHOR. 

(Spirits of Camphor.) 

Cam plior Gu m 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 quart. 

Agitate until the camphor is dissolved. 

TINCTURE OF MYRRH. 

Gum Myrrh 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, and filter through paper. 

TINCTURE OF CATECHU. 

Gum Catechu, cut fine 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, and filter through paper. 

TINCTURE OF GUAIACUM. 

Gum Guaiacum, pulverized 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, and filter through paper. 

TINCTURE OF OPIUM. 

(Laudanum.) 

Gum Opium, sliced 3 ounces. 

Boiling Water 10 fluid-oz. 

Reduce the opium to an emulsion in a wedgwood mortar. 
Then add 
Alcohol, 76 per cent 20 ounces. 

Put altogether in a bottle, and agitate occasionally for 
one day. At the end of twenty-four hours it will be of full 
strength. Filter through paper. 



j^resh J£ggs and Yellow Butter. 151 

TINCTURE OP RHUBARB. 

Rhubarb Rout, braised 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

TINCTURE OF BLOODROOT. 

Bloodroot, powdered 6 ounces. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

TINCTURE OF GINGER. 

Ginger Root, powdered <S ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

TINCTURE OF SENNA. 

Senna Leaves (Alexandria) 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, diluted 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

COMPOUND TINCTURE OF SENNA. 

(Elixir Salutis.) 

Senna Leaves (Alexandria) 2 ounces. 

Jalap, in powder 1 ounce. 

Fennel Seeds, bruised J " 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

TINCTURE OF CAPSICUM. 

Cayenne Pepper 1 ounce. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 
paper. 



152 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 



TINCTURE OF COLUMBO. 

Columbo Hoot, bruised 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

TINCTURE OF PERUVIAN BARK. 

Peruvian Bark, powdered 6 ounces. 

Alcohol, 70 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

TINCTURE OF BLACK COHOSH. 

Black Cohosh Root (in powder) 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 76 percent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

TINCTURE OF GOLDEN-SEAL. 

Golden-Seal Root, in powder 6 ounces. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

TINCTURE OF LOBELIA. 

Lobelia Herb, in powder. 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 

TINCTURE OF PRICKLY ASH. 

Prickly Ash Berries, in powder 8 ounces. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Macerate for fourteen days, express, and filter through 

paper. 



•J^RESH pGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 153 

TINCTURE OF. SPEARMINT. 

(Spirits of Mint.) 

Spearmint Leaves, fresh, sufficient to fill a glass jar. 
Holland Gin, sufficient to cover the Spearmint Leaves. 

Macerate for seven days, express, and filter through paper. 

TINCTURE OF OIL OF PEPPERMINT. 

(Essence of Peppermint.) 

Oil of Peppermint 1 ounce. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 pint. 

Agitate in a bottle for a few minutes, and it will be ready 
for use. The alcohol will readily dissolve the oil, and a 
strong essence will be the result. The same process will 
apply to nearly all tinctures (or essences) made from the 
essential oils. 

TINCTURE OF OIL OF SASSAFRAS. 

(Essence of Sassafras.) 

Oil of Sassafras 1 ounce. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 pint. 

Dissolve the oil in the alcohol. 

TINCTURE OF OIL OF CINNAMON. 

(Essence of Cinnamon.) 

Oil of Cinnamon 1 ounce. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 pint. 

Dissolve the oil in the alcohol. 

TINCTURE OF OIL OF WINTERGREEN. 

(Essence of Winter green.) 

Oil of Wintergreen 1 ounce. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 pint. 

Dissolve the oil in the alcohol. 

In making other tinctures of oils (essences), viz., Anise, 



154 



Fresh jIggs and Yellow Butter. 



Lavender, Spearmint, etc., dissolve the essential oils of either 
in alcohol, 95 per cent., in the proportion of one ounce of 
the oil to one pint of the alcohol. 

COLORING TINCTURES. 

The tinctures of essential oils, as peppermint, etc., are 
sometimes colored — those of a red tint with tincture of red 
sanders wood, and those of a yellow color with tincture of 
turmeric. But we do not recommend the coloring of tinc- 
tures. A few green leaves of peppermint are sometimes 
added to the tincture of peppermint, to give it a greenish 
tint, and to this there can be no objection. 

PREPARING TINCTURES. 

In the preparation of tinctures, the roots, leaves, barks, 
etc., used are generally dry, and should be pulverized. 
Alcohol stronger than 76 per cent, should never be used in 
the manufacture of tinctures from roots, leaves and barks. 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 155 



EXTRACTS. 

HYDRO-ALCOHOLIC EXTRACT OF GOLDEN-SEAL ROOT. 

Golden-Seal Root, in powder 2 pounds. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 quart. 

Let this mixture stand twenty-four hours ; then transfer 
to a percolator, and gradually add alcohol (95 per cent.) 
until it passes off without the taste of the root. 

To the powder in the percolator add 
Warm Water 3 pints. 

Let the mixture stand twenty-four hours. Then grad- 
ually add a sufficient quantity of water, until the liquid 
passes only slightly impregnated with the properties of the 
golden-seal. Strain the alcoholic and aqueous liquids together, 
and evaporate to the proper consistence. 

This extract possesses all the tonic virtues of the root, and 
may be used in all cases where that is indicated. 

This same process may be used for making the hydro- 
alcoholic extracts of yellow-dock root, bloodroot, etc. 

TO PREPARE FLUID EXTRACTS. 

These preparations contain all the virtues of the drugs 
from which they are made, in a liquid form, and are uni- 
formly of such strength that a pint of extract is equal to a 
pound of the drug, or a drop equal to one grain. 



156 Fresh Jiggs and Yellow j3utter 

The following is a general process for their manufacture, 

to be varied according to the nature of the active principles 

of the drugs operated upon : 

Take of the Drug, finely powdered 16 pounds. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent a sufficient quantity. 

Moisten the drug with the alcohol, and pack it well into 
a conical percolator. Add alcohol, from time to time, until 
fourteen pints of tincture have been obtained and set aside. 

Continue the percolation with alcohol until the tincture 
passes through nearly colorless. 

Then add water, in the same manner, until the alcohol is 
washed out of the drug. 

Distill the alcohol from all the tincture, except that set 
aside, and evaporate the residuary liquor down to the measure 
of two pints, by a water-bath. 

Finally, mix the residuary liquor with the reserved tinc- 
ture, and filter through Swedish filtering paper. 

This is an extremely convenient and reliable form for the 
administration of many remedies. Over three hundred 
different extracts are now made by Messrs. Garrison & 
Murray, druggists and chemists, of this city. 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow ^utter 157 



PERFUMERY. 



SPIRIT OF BERGAMOT. 



Fresh Bergamot Leaves, bruised 2 pounds. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent., deodorized 1 gallon. 

Distilled Water H o-allons. 



2 &"• 



Digest over a water-bath for tive or six hours, in a closely 
covered vessel, at a heat not exceeding 125° Fahr. 

The same process will serve for producing spirits of 
lavender, rosemary, etc. 

A more refined article may be made from the foregoing 
preparation, by drawing off six quarts by distillation. 

SPIRITUOUS HUNGARY WATER. 

Rosemary Flowers, fresh, and bruised 1J pounds. 

Lavender Flowers, fresh, and bruised I pound. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent., deodorized 3 quarts. 

Distilled Water 1 gallon. 

Digest over a water-bath for five or six hours, and proceed 
as in the formula for spirit of bergamot, distilling in the 
same manner for a refined article. 



158 



j^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW RuTTER. 



SPIRITUOUS COLOGNES. 

NUMBER ONE COLOGNE. 

Oil of Bergamot J ounce. 

Oil of Rosemary \ ounce. 

Oil of Neroli \ ounce. 

Oil of Lavender \ ounce. 

Alcohol, deodorized (known as cologne spirits), 95 

per cent 1 quart. 

Rose water 8 ounces. 

Shake well together, and it will be readv for use. 

NUMBER TWO COLOGNE. 

Oil of Rosemary 2 drachms. 

Oil of Lavender 2| drachms. 

Oil of Lemon \ ounce. 

Oil of Bergamot i ounce. 

Oil of Neroli \ drachm. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent, (cologne spirits) 3 pints. 

Orange-flower Water 1 pint. 

Shake well together, and it will be ready for use. 



^'resh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 159 



OINTMENTS. 

Ointments comprise a class of medicines which contain cer- 
tain vegetable or mineral substances. Their consistence is 
softer than that of salves or plasters, the heat of the body being 
sufficient to melt them. Butter, lard, or oil, with wax, are 
the usual vehicles for combining their virtues. 

VENICE TURPENTINE OINTMENT. 

Venice Turpentine . 1 pound. 

Common Tar 6 ounces. 

Fresh Butter 2\ pounds. 

Simmer until they are united. 

Use. — This ointment may be employed in the treatment 
of scald-head {tinea capitis). Wash the parts thoroughly 
with soap-suds, and apply twice or three times a day. 

geeen ointment. 

Leaves of the Double Tansy. 2 ounces. 

Catnip 2 ounces. 

Wormwood 3 ounces. 

Hops 1 ounce. 

Bruise these herbs, put them into a jug, and cover with 
Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Allow it to stand two weeks. Then pour into a kettle or 
basin, and add 
Lard 3 pou nds. 

Simmer one hour, and strain. Then add 
Gum Turpentine 4 ounces. 



160 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 



Simmer for fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. 
When nearly cool, pour into bottles or boxes for use. 

Use. — This ointment is very cooling and relaxing. It is 
useful in sprains, swellings, contracted sinews, etc. 

STRAMONIUM OINTMENT. 

Fresh Stramonium Leaves, bruised to a pulp | pound. 

Put them into a bottle, and add 
Alcohol, 76 per cent 1 quart. 

Let it stand two or three days. Then pour into a kettle 
or basin, and add 
Lard 3 pou nds. 

Simmer together, and strain. Pour into boxes or bottles 
before it has entirely cooled. 

Use. — This is a good application for scalds, burns, sores, 
piles and cutaneous eruptions. 

BITTERSWEET OINTMENT. 

Bark of Bittersweet Root \ pound. 

Alcohol, 70 per cent | pint. 

Macerate for two weeks. Then pour into a kettle or 
basin, and add 
Fresh Butter H pounds. 

Simmer one hour, and strain. 

Use. — Excellent for sores of various kinds. 

YELLOW-DOCK OINTMENT. 

Yellow-Dock Roots, bruised J pound. 

Alcohol, 70 per cent | pint. 

Macerate for two days. Then pour into a kettle or basin, 
and add 
Fresh Butter 1 1 pounds. 

Simmer one hour, and strain. 



Fresh F,ggs and Yellow Butter. 1G1 

Use. — This ointment is used for salt-rheum, scrofulous 
humors, etc. ; and by combining it with the bittersweet 
ointment, it will be excellent for tumors, etc. 

COMPOUND POKE-ROOT OINTMENT. 

Poke-Root, bruised 4 ounces. 

Bark of Bittersweet Root, bruised 2 ounces. 

Yellow-Dock Root, bruised 3 ounces. 

Stramonium Leaves 1 ounce. 

Alcohol, 76 per cent 8 ounces. 

Macerate for two weeks. Then pour into a kettle or 
basin, and add 
Fresh Butter 2 pounds. 

Simmer one hour, and strain. 
Use. — This is an excellent ointment for salt-rheum, scald- 
head, itch, and other cutaneous diseases, and is invaluable 
for scrofulous and fever-sores. 

[Note. — Instead of macerating the materials for two weeks, the 
bottle or jug containing them may be placed in a water-bath, heated, to 
about 150° Fahr., for ten or twelve hours, by which process the same 
result is obtained.] 



1G2 J^RESH JlGGS AND YELLOW J3UTTER. 



PLASTERS. 

ADHESIVE AND STRENGTHENING PLASTER. 

White Resi n 2 \ pounds. 

Burgundy Pitch 3 ounces. 

Beeswax 3 ounces. 

Mutton Tallow 4 ounces. 

Melt together, and add 

Oil of Sassafras \ ounce. 

Oil of Hemlock \ ounce. 

Camphor Gum \ ounce. 

Dissolve the sassafras, hemlock and camphor together in 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 4 ounces. 

Then add 

Tincture of Myrrh 2 ounces. 

Tincture of Guaiacum 2 ounces. 

Incorporate all the articles, by stirring well together. 
Then pour the whole into a vessel of water, and work it with 
the hands until cold. It may then be made into rolls for use. 

This plaster can be made softer or harder, as the season 
may require, by using more or less resin. 

Use. — This is a valuable preparation for wounds, sores, 
cuts, boils, bruises, felons, etc., and is unequaled as a rheu- 
matic and strengthening plaster for pains in the sides, back 
and limbs. When warm, spread on cloth or leather. 



j^RESH ^GGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER 163 

IRRITATING PLASTER. 

Tar I pound. 

Guru Turpentine J pound. 

Beeswax 6 ounces. 

Burgundy Pitch i pound. 

Melt together, and strain. As it cools, stir in 

Poke-root, "} 

Bloodroot, V Finely pulverized each 2 ounces. 

Indian Turnip, J 

When the whole mass is well incorporated, spread on soft 
leather, and place over the part affected. 

Use. — This may be used as a counter-irritant in the case 
of deep-seated pain in any part of the body. Keep on the 
plaster until eruptions are produced. 



164 Fresh Eogs and Yellow Butter. 



TAMING. 

The skin of animals is composed of two parts or layers. 
The external one, which is thin, is called the cuticle, or 
epidermis. The inner one, called the cutis vera, or true skin, 
consists of minute fibres, composed chiefly of gelatin, or glue. 

When a solution of gelatin, or glue, is mixed with an 
infusion of oak or hemlock bark, gum catechu, or any other 
vegetable astringent, a precipitate is formed consisting of 
the tannin of the astringent matter and the gelatin. This 
compound, which is insoluble in water, and not subject to 
putrefaction, is the substantial basis of leather. 

Skin may be converted into leather by three methods. 
The simplest, and probably the first that was invented, con- 
sists in soaking the skin in water, and then forcing grease or 
oil into its pores by hard rubbing ; the oil, which is thus 
introduced in the place of water, preserves the suppleness or 
pliability of the skin as long as it remains. In this manner 
the Indians prepare their deer and buffalo skins. Sometimes 
they soak the skins in a mixture of the fat and brains of the 
animal ; after which this mixture is well rubbed with the 
hands. The skins are then hung up to dry in the smoke, 
which, by its antiseptic properties, aids in preventing putre- 
faction. 

Tanning is the process by which animal skins are con- 
verted into leather — a product possessing certain properties 



j^RESH jlGGS AND JeLLOW BuTTER 165 

that differ from the raw hide, skin or pelt, and which adapt 
it to the purposes for which it is generally employed. 

Chemically considered, leather is a compound of gelatin 
and tannin, possessing the desirable qualities of durability, 
pliability, insolubility, and a great indifference to the action 
of chemical re-agents. Tanning essentially consists in sat- 
urating the skin with a diluted solution of tannic acid, 
with which the cellular and elastic tissues gradually combine 
as it penetrates inward, forming an insoluble compound that 
resists putrefaction completely. This is leather. 

The principal steps necessary in the manufacture of good 
leather in an expeditious manner are as follows : 

First. — Soaking and washing the hides or skins in pure 
water, for the purpose of cleansing and softening them. 

Second. — The removal of the hair, to effect which three 
or four pounds of unslaked lime are added to a barrel of 
water, in which mixture the hide or skin should be soaked 
a day or two. By this treatment the albumen surrounding 
the bulbous roots of the hair is dissolved, which facilitates 
its removal by scraping with the blunt edge of a knife or 
other instrument used for that purpose. 

Third — The thorough cleaning of the hides or skins. 
This is effected by the copious use of water, and afterwards 
scraping them on a beam, with the " neshing-knife," to 
remove all superfluous fat, etc.; and, lastly, by soaking them 
for a day or two in cold water, to which bran, in the proportion 
of a peck to a barrel of water, has been added. 

Finally. — Take them out and rinse thoroughly, when 
they are prepared for tanning. 



11 



166 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 

The following is the formula for the decoction now to 

be used : 

Sumach Bark, powdered, or cut into small pieces... f pound. 
Cold Water 1 gallon. 

Mix, and let the bark soak for about twelve hours. Then 

simmer the whole for three or four hours in a well tinned or 

copper vessel, (iron vessels should not be used), gradually 

adding hot water, from time to time, to make up the quantity 

lost by evaporation. Then pour off", and strain through 

muslin; and while hot add to each gallon of this decoction 

the following : 

Sulphuric Acid (Oil of Vitriol ) 1 ounce. 

Common Salt 16 ounces. 

Mix all well together, in a convenient-sized wooden vessel, 
in Avhich, when cooled to about 98° Fahr., immerse the skins, 
as previously prepared, for about thirty minutes. Then 
remove and hang them up. When nearly dry, they should 
be pulled and rubbed until thoroughly dry ; and this com- 
pletes the process of tanning. 

To keep leather in a pliable condition, and to render it 

water-proof, we suggest the following, which may be called 

the 

COMPOUND LEATHER DRESSING. 

Good Sperm Oil 1 quart. 

Paraffin Oil 1| pints. 

Castor Oil 6 ounces. 

Tallow | pound. 

Light Colored Resin, powdered J pound. 

Paraffin Wax 2 ounces. 

Melt together by means of a water-bath, and when cold 

apply to the leather as long as it is absorbed. 

This composition is far superior to the ordinary dressing 



^RESH JlGGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER 167 

for leather, as it not only makes it pliable, but, possessing 
antiseptic properties, preserves it a much longer time. 

The castor and paraffin oils protect the leather from the 
ravages of rats, mice, and other vermin. 

HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF ANIMALS WITH THE HAIR OR 
FUR ON THEM. 

Whether the hides or pelts are dry or green, put them 
into lukewarm water, and let them soak over night, or longer 
if necessary, until they are soft; then wash them thoroughly 
in warm soap-suds; after which remove all fat and fleshy 
substances, wash in clear, cold water, and hang them in the 
air to dry. When nearly dry, work and rub them until 
they are soft and dry. Then take a sponge or brush, and 
thoroughly saturate the flesh side with the sumach and salt 
compound, which should be at about blood-heat, or 98°, as 
given in the process for tanning leather. This application 
should be repeated two or three times during the day, the 
repetition being governed by the thickness of the skin, which, 
when thoroughly saturated with this compound, and dried, is 
thoroughly tanned. When the hide or pelt is nearly dry, 
after the last application, it should be worked and rubbed 
until dry and soft. 

When it becomes soft, apply the compound leather dress- 
ing, and work it well into the pores of the skin. 

A little care will be necessary to avoid greasing the hair 
or fur. 

The following is an excellent and cheap method of 

RENOVATING FURS. 

Rul) warm wheat bran thoroughly with the hands into the 
fur or hair of the skin, which can be done conveniently by 



1(38 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

laying the fur on a table or bench. Then brush out the 
bran, and the fur will present a clean, bright appearance. 

HOW TO TAN SHEEPSKINS, DOG, SQUIRREL, COON OR OTHER 
PELTS, WITH THE HAIR ON. 

Wash the skins in strong soap-suds, made by using hot 
water, carefully squeezing out and cleansing the wool, or fur, 
from all dirt and grease. Then wash in cold water until 
the soap is all removed. Next, dissolve half a pound of 
salt and one-fourth pound of alum in half a gallon of warm 
water, and put into a tub containing one and a half gallons 
of cold water, in which immerse the skins. Let them soak 
twelve hours, and then hang them over a pole to drain. 
When well drained, stretch them carefully on a board to dry. 
Stretch them several times while drying. Before they are 
entirely dry, sprinkle on the flesh side one ounce each of 
powdered alum and saltpetre, rubbing in the mixture well. 
Then lay the flesh sides together, and hang them in the shade 
for two or three days, turning them over every day until 
they are dry. 

Finish by scraping the flesh side with a blunt knife, to 
remove any remaining scraps of flesh, and then rub (the flesh 
side) with pumice or rotten-stone and the hands. Very 
beautiful mats, mittens, etc., can be made of skins tanned 
as above. 

TO COLOR PURS OR HAIR PELTS. 

Carbonate of Soda 4 ounces. 

Hot Water 1 gallon. 

Dissolve. Then add 

Acetate of Lead (pulverized) J ounce. 

Sulphate of Iron J ounce. 

Litharge J ounce. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter, 169 

Stir together for five minutes. Then allow the liquid to 
cool to 100° Fahr. The furs (having previously been washed 
in soap-suds, to remove from them all grease, and then dried,) 
should now be immersed in the coloring bath and slowly 
moved about in it for five minutes. Then air the furs for five 
minutes. Repeat this process three or four times, or until 
the desired dark shade is produced. 

This dye may be made stronger by adding double the 
quantity of acetate of lead, sulphate of iron and litharge, while 
warm, to the carbonate of soda solution. Apply this dye to 
the furs by means of a brush. Light or dark shades may 
thus be produced, according to the strength of the dye and 
the number of applications that the furs receive. 

ANOTHER MODE OF TANNING. 

Put the skins into soft soap. Let them remain from 
one to two days, or until the hair can be readily removed. 
Scrape off' the hair with a dull knife, and rinse the skin in 
warm water. Then apply equal parts of pulverized alum 
and fine salt to all portions of the skin, on both sides. Roll 
and pack away for twenty days. Then unroll, and with the 
hands pull and stretch the skin until it is soft and pliable. 
This is a good method of tanning skins of deer, squirrels, 
dogs, etc., with the hair off". 



170 J^RESH jlGGS AND YELLOW RuTTER 



SOAP. 

(Sapo.) 

According to history, the Gauls are supposed to have been 
the originators of soap made from tallow and wood-ashes. 
All the alkalies employed in washing were known to the 
ancient Greeks and Egyptians, and used by. them. 

Soaps embrace all those compounds which result from 
the re-action of salifiable bases with oils and fats. The 
theory of soap-making is very simple, depending on the 
affinity existing between the alkalies and fat acids ; on the 
solubility in water of the alkaline stearates, margarates, 
oleates, etc. ; and, finally, on the power of a certain amount 
of free alkali, or common salt, to coagulate the soap and 
render it insoluble in the liquid in which it swims, and 
which, in fact, runs off its surface as water does off' the surface 
of fat, while yet the soap retains its solubility in pure water. 

There are two principal varieties of soap — hard and soft. 
Hard soap is made of soda and tallow, or oil ; soft soap, of 
potasli and grease, or oil. 

When soda and tallow alone are employed, the soap 
is white. 

Common yellow, or resin soap derives its peculiarities 
from an admixture of resin and a small quantity of palm-oil 
with the tallow employed — the, palm-oil being used to im- 
prove the color of the soap. 



J^RESH jlGGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER. 171 

The following constitutes what we consider the best prac- 
tical process for making soap for family use, without the 
employment of expensive apparatus. 

TRANSPARENT HARD SOAP, PERFUMED. 

White Bar Soap, cut into thin slices 25 pounds. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 2 gallons. 

Heat gradually in a tin or copper kettle, stirring until 
the soap is all dissolved. Remove the kettle from the fire, 
and when partially cool, add 

Essence of Sassafras 4 ounces. 

Stir well together. Then pour into pans one inch deep. 
When cold, cut into square bars, or it may be run into cakes, 
or rolled into balls. 

This is a superior toilet soap. 

WHITE BAR SOAP, PERFUMED. 

Carbonate of Soda 20 pounds. 

Soft Water, hot 10 gallons. 

Stir until the soda is dissolved. Then add 
Freshly-slaked Lime 20 pounds. 

Stir occasionally for five hours. Allow it to settle for 
twelve or fifteen hours; then pour ofip the clear solution into 
another kettle, and add 
Tallow 20 pounds. 

Boil, with repeated stirrings, until all is dissolved. Then 
pour off, to cool, into a shallow box, and when partially 
cooled, add 
Essence of Sassafras..'. 1 pint. 

Stir well together. Then pour into pans or tight boxes 
two or three inches in depth. When cold, cut into bars 
or cakes. 



172 J^RESH pGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 

Other essences may be used to perfume the soap, it' 
preferred . 

To make " almond " soap, omit the essence of sassafras 

and use the essence of almonds, which is prepared thus : 

Oil of Bitter Almonds 2 ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 12 ounces. 

Agitate for a few minutes, until the oil is dissolved. 

Incorporate with the soap, when partially cooled, as above 

directed. 

SOFT SOAP FROM HARD SOAP — QUICK PROCESS. 

Soft Water, hot 20 gallons. 

Carbonate of Soda (Sal Soda) 6 pounds. 

Stir, keeping up the heat, until dissolved. Then add 

White Bar Soap, in thin slices 20 pounds. 

Stir altogether, over the lire, until the soap is dissolved. 

When partially cooled, pour into a barrel for use. 

This forms an excellent soft soap. 

IMPROVED SOFT SOAP. 

Soft Water, hot 20 gallons. 

Liquid Silicate of Soda (30° Baume) 1 gallon. 

Stir well together a few minutes. Then add 
Common Bar Soap, cut in thin slices 20 pounds. 

Stir well together until dissolved. When partially 
eooled, pour into a barrel for use. 

This we consider a superior soft soap. 

SOFT SOAP — COMMON. 

Concentrated Lye 2 pounds. 

Soft Water 5 gallons. 

Boil together until the lye is dissolved. Then add either 

Lard, Oil, Tallow, or "Soap-grease" 8 pounds. 



J^resh ^ggs and Yellow Butter 173 

Boil for thirty minutes, stirring occasionally. Then add 
Soft Water, boiling 25 gallons. 

Stir well together, and when cool put into barrels for use. 

It is cheaper to purchase the concentrated lye for making 
soap than to employ lye made by the slow process of leaching 
wood-ashes in barrels, it being much cleaner, less trouble- 
some, and quite as efficient. 



174 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 



WASHING COMPOUNDS. 

The materials in common use for preparing washing 

compounds are sal-soda and borax. The principal objections 

to their employment are, that borax is too expensive, and 

that sal-soda is liable to stain and rot the fibres of cloth, if 

used in excess. A very good washing compound may be 

made as follows : 

Carbonate of Soda (Sal-Soda) 2 pounds. 

Fresh, Unslaked Lime 1 pound. 

Water, hot 2 gallons. 

Boil for thirty minutes, stirring occasionally. Allow it 
to settle a few hours, until it becomes clear ; then carefully 
pour off and strain. It may be kept in jugs or bottles for use. 

Add half a pint of this solution to ten gallons of water, 
and allow the clothes to soak in it for ten or twelve hours ; 
then boil and wash the clothes. The labor of washing will 
be greatly lessened, and the boiling will not require many 
minutes. 

IMPROVED AV ASHING COMPOUND. 

Liquid Silicate of Soda (30° Baume) I pint. 

Water, (warm or cold), four or five pails 

full, or 10 or 12 gallons. 

Stir together for a few minutes, and the water will be 
perfectly soft and excellent for washing. 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 175 

Soak the clothes in this water all night before washing 
them. In the morning boil the clothes in the water fifteen 
minutes ; then wash them. Very little soap will be required. 

Silicate of soda, for washing, is superior to sal-soda, 
borax, etc. 

Do not use spirits of turpentine, alcohol, or ammonia, etc., 
as they are expensive and inferior to the foregoing preparations. 

HARD WATER MADE SOFT FOR WASHING. 

Rain or soft water is better adapted than any other for 
washing and cleaning, but it cannot always be readily 
obtained. When water is hard — which is the condition of 
most of the well water — and will not. readily unite with soap 
it indicates the presence of earthy salts, usually carbonate or 
sulphate of lime. Hard water curdles soap, imparting to 
the water a milky appearance, which is caused by the forma- 
tion of an insoluble compound between the oil or alkali of the 
soap and the salts of lime. This prevents, in a measure, the 
formation of a lather or soap-suds. If the hardness is caused 
by carbonate of lime, held in solution by an excess of 
carbonic acid, it may be detected by boiling the water for a 
few hours in an open vessel ; the carbonic acid passes oif in 
the form of gas, by evaporation, and the lime precipitates to 
the bottom, leaving the water soft, which may then be care- 
fully poured oif and used for washing. In most cases, how- 
ever, the hardness is caused by the presence of sulphate of 
lime, but boiling will not remove sulphuric acid. Therefore 
it is necessary to decompose the sulphate of lime by using an 
alkali — either carbonate of soda (known as sal-soda,) potash, 
pearlash, or their equivalents. Wood ashes will answer the 



176 Fresh Eggs and Yellow JButter 

purpose, by mixing a quart or two in a barrel of water and 
letting it settle a few hours; or a piece of sal -soda of tbe 
size of a hen's egg, dissolved in a quart of hot water, 
poured into a barrel of hard water, and stirred thoroughly, 
will render it soft. A small piece of quick-lime or borax 
will also produce the same result ; sal-soda is preferable, but 
should not be used in excess, or it will cause the clothes to 
appear yellow, and also by its caustic action injure the fabrics. 
The above amount is sufficient to soften a barrel of com- 
mon hard water. And in washing do not add any more 
sal-soda, using only good soap with this prepared soft water, 
and the clothes will be white and pure. 

TO SETTLE AND PURIFY MUDDY WATER. 

Dissolve a piece of alum, the size of a hickory nut, in a 
pint of hot water; pour it into a barrel of water, and stir it 
thoroughly for a few minutes. It will purify and precipitate 
all the mud and impurities to the bottom in a few hours. 
When the water is very muddy, double the above quantity of 
alum may be required. 

TO PREVENT PRINTS FADING. 

Wash in cold rain-water, adding a handful of salt to a pail 
of water. Do not expose them to the sun to dry, but roll 
the articles tightly in a coarse cloth until dry enough to iron. 

TO RExMOVE STAINS FROM SILK, COTTON, LINEN, AND OTHER 
GOODS, RESTORING THE COLOR. 

Silk, cotton, linen, and other fabrics are liable to be stained 
by the action of vinegar, lemon juice, cream of tartar, tartaric, 
sulphuric, and other acids, or by wine and various kinds of 



J^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BuTTER. 177 

fruits and vegetables, which contain more or less acid, as, for 
instance, currants, strawberries, cherries, pie-plant, apples, 
oranges, etc. The aeid changes the color of the fabrics 
to a reddish and brownish appearance. It is a well estab- 
lished chemical fact that an alkali will neutralize an acid, 
and a very appropriate alkali is ammonia. 

Apply a few drops to the stained parts of the fabrics, and 
the original color will soon be restored. Sometimes Several 
applications may be required to fully neutralize the acid. 



178 Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 



CLOTH RENOVATOR. 

Soft Water J gallon. 

Transparent Soap, cut into thin slices 2 ounces. 

Heat together in a water-bath, until the soap dissolves. 

Into a bottle or jug put 

Cold Soft Water | gallon. 

Liquor Ammonia, concentrated 8 ounces. 

(Or Aqua Ammonia 1 quart.) 

Agitate, and keep it tightly corked. 

When the solution of soap and water has cooled, add it 
to the solution of ammonia. Agitate thoroughly, and it will 
be ready for use. Shake thoroughly, also, before using, at 
any time. 

By following the subjoined directions carefully, this 
renovator will remove grease, oil, paint, tar, wax, varnish, 
etc., from all kinds of clothing, silks, satins, ribbons, cottons, 
woolens, table-covers, carpets, etc., without shrinking or 
injuring the cloth or color. 

Directions for Use. — Lay the cloth or garment on a clean 
board or table. Then pour upon the soiled part a little of 
the renovator, and rub thoroughly with a brush or firm 
sponge for a few moments. Make a second application, if nec- 
essary. Then rinse the sponge in clean cold or warm water ; 
squeeze it nearly dry, and rub the cloth (with the nap) for a 
short time, in order to produce a polish. Dry the gar- 
ment, and it will have the appearance of being new. By 



^RESH JlGGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER. 179 

chemical action, the renovator converts grease and oil into a 
harmless soap, which, with the dust, paint, varnish, resin, 
pitch, etc., is immediately loosened by the friction of the 
sponge or brush. 

Stained garments are restored from the effects of vinegar, 
lemon-juice, cream of tartar, or other acids, and brought to 
their original color, by the use of the renovator, one or two 
applications of which will remove most stains of fruit. 

Should the renovator not pour freely from the bottle, add 
a little water. 



1 SO Fresh F^ggs and Jellow j3utter. 



BAKING POWDER. 

Bicarbonate of Soda, dry 1 pound. 

Cream of Tartar, dry 1£ pounds. 

These materials should be thoroughly dried by exposure 
to the sun or in an oven ; then carefully mixed and put into 
bottles, which must be tightly corked. If mixed when 
dampness is present, effervescence will ensue, and the virtue 
of the compound be lost. 

One teaspoon-ful of this powder should be added to each 
quart of flour used. Mix with cold water, or milk, as desired, 
and bake immediately. 

This powder, being mixed with flour, as above directed, 
constitutes a good " self-rising " flour. 

Use as a substitute for yeast or sour milk, in making 
biscuit, tea-cakes, rolls, or other pastry. 

YEAST CAKES. 

Brewers', or Hop Yeast 1 quart. 

Wheat Flour sufficient to form a thick batter. 

Fine Salt 1 tablespoon-fu 1 . 

Stir well together, and, after it has risen, knead it 
thoroughly in sufficient corn-meal to make a stiff dough. 
Roll it into sheets about one inch thick, and let it stand one 
hour. Then roll it again into sheets, about one-fourth of an 
inch in thickness ; then cut into cakes about two inches 
square, and dry them in the shade or an oven. They must 
not be dried in the sun, or they will ferment and spoil. 

Directions for Use. — Dissolve one yeast-cake in one pint 
of warm water, and add three tablespoons-ful of flour. Set 
it near the fire, and allow it to rise. Then knead it into the 
bread. As soon as it is light, bake it in a hot oven. 



id Yellow Butter. 181 



LIQUID GLUE. 

White Glue 10 pounds. 

Gum Arabic 1 pound. 

Warm Water 3 quarts. 

Let the mixture stand twelve hours, in a glass or porcelain 

vessel. Then place it over a water-bath, stirring occasionally 

until dissolved. Then add 

Acetic Acid 2 quarts. 

Or sufficient to give the glue the required consistence. 

Have the temperature of the water about 100° Fahr. 
Keep the vessel closely covered. Stir occasionally for two or 
three hours. When partially cool, bottle for use. 

This is a superior and convenient glue for joining wood, etc. 

INDIA RUBBER COMPOUND LIQUID GLUE. 

India Rubber, thinly sliced 1 ounce. 

Gutta Percha | ounce. 

Naphtha 1 pint. 

Mix, cork tightly, keep in a warm room, and shake 
occasionally during one day. In two or three days the 
rubber will have dissolved. (It may be sooner dissolved by 
placing the mixture over a water-bath, heated to 100° Fahr.) 
Then add 
Gum Shellac, finely powdered If pounds. 

Heat together until all are dissolved. Then pour upon 
plates of metal to cool and harden in sheets, like glue. 

When used, melt it in a glue-pot until soft. 

For joining pieces of wood, leather, etc., this preparation 
has no equal. 
12 



182 Fresh Eggs and 



CANDLES. 

Tallow, refined 10 pounds. 

Paraffin Wax, refined 1 pound. 

Melt together, and run into moulds, or dip wicking in the 
mixture, as for ordinary candles. These candles will be 
found superior to any made from tallow only. 

Tallow, before being used for candles, should always be 

refined. The following process is a good one for the purpose : 

Alum, pul verized 3 pounds. 

Hot Water 6 gallons. 

Boil together until the alum is dissolved. Then add 
Tallow, cut into slices 10 pounds. 

Stir well together, and boil for about one and a half hours, 
often stirring, and removing the scum that rises to the 
surface. Then strain through two thicknesses of flannel. 

When cold, the tallow may be removed from the solution 
of alum. 

This process will effectually purify and bleach tallow, 
preparatory to making candles. 

PARAFFIN CANDLES. 

Paraffin wax, melted and run into moulds, or dipped, as 
preferred, makes the most perfect candle known. It gives a 
clear, brilliant light, requires no snuffing, and one pound of 
paraffin candles will burn as long as two and a half pounds 
of candles made from tallow. 

Paraffin candles require wicks only half the size of those 
used in tallow candles. 



J^RESH JSGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER 183 



THE HAIR. 

For ages chemists have endeavored to find substances 
capable of changing the color of the hair to an imitation of 
its natural appearance. Innumerable compounds, also, have 
been devised with a view of restoring hair to bald heads ; 
and hair-dressings, in abundance, may be found in the form 
of "oils," " bears' grease," "pomades," "lustrals," etc. 

Most of the hair " restoratives" in use at the present time 
are injurious to the scalp. Those which have been in use for 
the past fifteen years are based principally upon the prescrip- 
tion made for an affection of the scalp of General Twiggs, 
during the Mexican war, which, in his case, partially restored 
gray hair to its natural color. 

The following is the prescription referred to : 

Rosewater 1 pint. 

Acetate of Lead 2 drachms. 

Lac Sulphur 2|- drachms. 

Glycerin 1 ounce. 

Mix. Shake before using, as all the lead and sulphur do 
not dissolve in the rosewater, but' precipitate to the bot- 
tom of the bottle. As numerous cases of lead-poisoning have 
resulted from its use, all preparations for the hair which 
contain lead should be avoided. 



184 Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 



HAIR OILS. 

NUMBER ONE HAIR OIL. 

Castor Oil, deodorized 3 ounces. 

Oil of Citronella 1 drachm. 

Oil of Lavender 1 drachm. 

Oil of Neroli 20 drops. 

Cologne Spirits, 95 per cent 1 pint. 

Agitate thoroughly in a bottle for a few minutes, and the 
solution will at once become clear and beautiful. When a 
greater proportion of castor oil is used, it renders the hair 
gummy. 

NUMBER. TWO HAIR OIL,. 

Glycerin 4 ounces. 

Rosewater 1 pint. 

Agitate together in a buttle for a few moments, and it 
will be ready for use. 

Hair oils are sometimes colored a beautiful red with the 
tincture of alkanet root ; but coloring adds nothing to 
their value. 

Olive oil should never be used for the hair, as it is very 
liable to become rancid, and does not leave the hair in as 
good condition as castor oil. 

Cocoanut oil is sometimes used for dressing the hair, but 
for this purpose is also inferior to castor oil. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 185 

HAIR INVIGORATOR AND "RESTORATIVE." 

(To Prevent the Loss of Hair.) 

Castor Oil, deodorized £ ounce. 

Carbonate of Ammonia ^ ounce. 

Tincture of Cantharides J ounce. 

Rosewater 8 ounces. 

B;iy Rum 8 ounces. 

Alcohol, deodorized, 95 per cent 12 ounces. 

Agitate well together in a bottle, and it will be ready for 

use. Shake the bottle thoroughly just before using, and 

apply to the hair once a day. We consider this, for an 

external stimulus, equal to anything that can be used for a 

"hair restorative." 

INSTANTANEOUS HAIR DYE. 

Nitrate of Silver, in crystals J ounce. 

Distilled, or Soft Water 3 ounces. 

Agitate in a bottle until the silver is dissolved. Then 
add, gradually, liquor ammonia (about two ounces), until the 
solution becomes cloudy from the formation of the oxyd of 
silver. Continue to add ammonia until it becomes clear 
again from the re-dissolving of the oxyd of silver. This 
constitutes the hair dye. 

Before applying the dye, the following No. 1 preparation 

must be used : 

Pyrogallic Acid 1 drachm. 

Rosewater , 8 ounces. 

Alcohol 2 ounces. 

Agitate until dissolved, and it will be ready for use. 

Directions for Use. — Wash the hair or whiskers with warm 
soap-suds, to which a little carbonate of potassa, or the sham- 
pooing compound, may be added, until all oil or grease has 
been removed. Then rinse with clear water, and thoroughly 



186 Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 

rub with a towel until the hair is nearly dry. Then, with a 
brush, apply the No. 1, or pyrogallic solution to every part 
of the hair or whiskers designed to be colored. Within a 
few minutes, with another brush, apply the dye, and the bail- 
or whiskers will instantaneously become dark or black. 
When the hair is quite dry, wash it with weak soap-suds, 
rinsing, afterwards, with clear water. If the hair is free 
from grease when the dye is applied, the color will remain 
good until the new growth requires another application. 

SHAMPOOING COMPOUND. 

Carbonate of Potassa (Salts of Tartar) f ounce. 

Soft Water 1 quart. 

Aqua Ammonia 1 ounce. 

Oil of Bergamot 10 drops. 

Oil of Lavender 15 drops. 

Transparent Soap (cut into thin shavings) 1 drachm. 

Agitate in a bottle, and when the soap is dissolved the 
solution is ready for use. Apply a little to the head, washing 
the hair thoroughly with the hands. Then rinse with soft 
water, and dry with a coarse towel. This is also an excel- 
lent substitute for soap while taking a bath. 

HAIR CURLING LIQUIDINE. 

Borax 2 ounces. 

Gum Arabic (pulverized) — 1 drachm. 

Scalding Hot Water 1 quart. 

Stir while dissolving. Remove from the fire as soon as 
dissolved, and when but luke-warm add 
Spirits of Camphor 2 ounces. 

In which has been mixed 

Oil of Rosemary 30 drops. 

Oil of Lavender 30 drops. 



J^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW &UTTER. 1S7 

Put altogether in a bottle; then add a handful of rose 
leaves, and shake well just before using. On retiring to rest 
wet the hair with the liquid, and roll it on twists of paper. 
In the morning unwrap and form into beautiful ringlets. 
Keep the bottle corked. 

PEARL WASH FOR REMOVING TAN, FRECKLES, AND SUN- 
BURNS; FOR CURING CHAPPED HANDS AND LIPS, AND 
FOR BEAUTIFYING THE COMPLEXION. 

Borax (pul verized) 1 ounce. 

Hot Water 1 pint. 

Dissolve the borax in the water, and when it has cooled add 

Rosewater 4 ounces. 

Oil of Bergamot 10 drops. 

Oil of Lavender 7 drops. 

Oil of Lemon 7 drops. 

Glycerin , J ounce. 

Mix altogether in a tightly corked bottle. Just before 
using, agitate the bottle. Twice a day, morning and evening, 
(and oftener if desired), moisten the skin with it. A few 
weeks' application is generally sufficient. 



188 Fresh F^ggs and Yellow ^utter 



INKS. 

BLUE-BLACK WRITING INK. 

Extract of Logwood, pulverized 2 ounces. 

Hot Water 1 gallon. 

Simmer over a water-bath one hour, or until the logwood is dissolved. 

Into a bottle put 

Bichromate of Potassa 100 grains. 

Prussiate of Potassa 40 grains. 

Warm Water 4 ounces. 

Agitate until dissolved ; then add to the logwood solution. Stir 
well together; strain through flannel, and when cold add 

Corrosive Sublimate 10 grains. 

Warm Water 1 ounce. 

Agitate until dissolved. Lastly, add 

Carbolic Acid, in crystals 1 drachm. 

Cloves 1 dozen. 

This ink exhibits a jet black when first spread upon paper, does not 
corrode, and costs about five cents a gallon. 

To make a good copying ink, add one ounce of pure white sugar and 
one ounce of glycerin to one gallon of the above. 

BLUE WRITING INK. 

Prussian Blue (best) 4 ounces. 

Oxalic Acid h ounce. 

Grind together finely in a mortar, and add 
Cold Water 8 ounces. 

Continue grinding for a few moments. Then add 
Mucilage of Gum Arabic 8 ounces. 

[This mucilage is made by dissolving gum arabic in its weight of 
warm water.] 

Renew the grinding for a few moments ; then pour the mixture into 
a bottle. Uinse the mortar with 
Cold Water 8 ounces. 

And pour that also into the bottle. Shake altogether thoroughly, 
and allow it to stand twenty-four hours. Then add 
Cold Water 1\ quarts. 

Sliake well. This makes two gallons of good writing ink, of a fine 
blue tint. 

MARKING} INKS. 

By using one-half the quantity of water in either of the foregoing 
formulas, a superior ink for marking boxes and barrels will be produced 
— black or blue, as preferred. 



Fresh J£ggs and Yellow Butter. 189 

black ink writing or copying. 

Soft Water, in an iron kettle 1 gallon. 

Nut-galls, pulverized 8 ounces. 

Simmer for four or five hours in a water-bath ; then add 

Sulphate of Copper J ounce. 

Sulphate of Iron 2| ounces. 

Dissolve in 
Warm Water 8 ounces. 

Add this to the decoction of galls, stir well together, and add 

Pure White Sugar 2 ounces. 

Gum Arabic, in powder 2 ounces. 

Simmer altogether for three or four hours, stirring occasionally. 
Then strain while hot through two or three thicknesses of cloth. When 
cool, bottle for use. 

If this ink is not to be used for copying, one-half of the quantity of 
sugar and gum arabic named will be sufficient. An excess of gum arabic 
and sugar prevents the ink from flowing freely. 

BLACK INK-POWDER. 

Extract of Logwood, pulverized 2 ounces. 

Nut-galls, pulverized 2 ounces. 

Sulphate of Iron, pulverized f ounce. 

Sulphate of Copper, pulverized 1 drachm. 

Gum Arabic, pulverized 2 drachms. 

Finely pulverized and evenly mixed, these make an excellent ink- 
powder for the rapid production of black ink, as follows : 

To three-fourths of an ounce of this powder add one pint of boiling 
water. Stir occasionally for an hour, strain, and it will be ready for use. 

GREEN WRITING INK. 

Bichromate of Potassa 1 ounce. 

Soft Water, warm 4 ounces. 

Agitate until dissolved. Add to this solution, while warm, 
Alcohol, 95 per cent '. 1J ounces. 

Shake well together. Then add, gradually, 
Strong Sulphuric Acid until it assumes a brown color. 

Evaporate the liquor to one-half. When cool, dilute with half a pint 
of soft water. Filter it ; then add 

Alcohol 2 ounces. 

Strong Sulphuric Acid 20 drops. 

After remaining at rest for a few days, this ink assumes a beautiful 
green color. Then add 
Gum Arabic, in powder 2 drachms. 

Which completes the process, and it is ready for use. 

RED WRITING INK. 

Brazil Wood 1 pound. 

Diluted Acetic Acid 2 quarts. 

Distilled Water 2 quarts. 



190 Fresh Jsggs and Yellow Butter. 

Simmer for three or four hours in a water-bath, or until about one 

quart is evaporated. Strain through cloth, and add 

Alum, in powder 4 ounces- 
Continue to simmer until only two quarts are left. Then add 

Gum Arabic, in powder 2 ounces. 

When the mixture has become cold, add 

Proto-chloride of Tin J ounce. 

Shake well together, and it is ready for use. 

This ink is cheaper and better than the "carmine" ink, as it is free 

from the bluish tint, and of a more permanent character. 

RED (CARMINE) INK. 

Aqua Ammonia 2 ounces. 

Pure Carmine 2 drachms. 

Shake well until the carmine is dissolved, and add 

Soft Wafer 14 ounces. 

Gum Arabic, in powder 2 drachms. 

Agitate altogether, and as soon as the gum arabic is dissolved it is 
ready for use. 

GOLD WRITING INK. 

Chloride of Gold 1 drachm. 

Gum Arabic, pure white, in powder ^ drachm. 

Dissolve the gum in one ounce of pure soft water. 

Rub well together with a pestle in a wedgewood mortar, and it is 
ready for use. 

AVhen gold ink is used, it should be shaken immediately before writing. 

SILVER INK. 

Chloride of Silver ..1 drachm. 

Proceed throughout exactly as in the formula for gold ink, and use 
in the same manner. 

BRONZE INK. 

Bronze, in powder, of any color 1 drachm. 

Proceed, in all respects, as in preparing gold and silver inks. 

VIOLET INK. 

Extract of Logwood 2 ounces. 

Hot Water 1 gallon. 

Simmer until dissolved, strain, and add 
Chloride of Tin 2 ounces. 

Stir well together. 

This is a good violet ink. 

CRIMSON IMv. 

Violet ink, combined with equal parts of red ink, produces a fine 
crimson ink. Mix the two in a bottle, and agitate thoroughly. 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 191 

india ink. 

Lampblack, extra fine £ ounce. 

Nut Oil J ounce. 

Mix in a wedgewood or porcelain mortar, and grind together with the 
pestle until thoroughly combined. 

White Glue 1 ounce. 

Cold Water 3 ounces. 

Soak the glue in the water for four or five hours ; then dissolve over 
a water-bath, at a temperature of 200°. Keep up the heat, and add to 
the solution of glue the mixture of lampblack and oil, stirring and knead- 
ing them together, until the ingredients are perfectly incorporated. 
Remove from the water-bath, and, when sufficiently cool, form into 
small cakes, or press into moulds, and leave them to dry in the open air. 

The peculiar odor of the Chinese india ink may be produced by adding 
a few grains of camphor gum or musk to the ink while kneading it. 



SYMPATHETIC. (OR, " INVISIBLE ") INKS. 

BLUE SYMPATHETIC INK. 

Chloride of Cobalt J ounce. 

Distilled Water 1 pint. 

Shake well together until dissolved, and it is ready for use. 

Characters written on paper with this liquid are invisible, from their 
paleness of color, until the ink has been dried by exposure to heat; then 
the letters appear of a blue color. When cooled for a short time, moisture 
is absorbed, and the writing once more disappears. 

GREEN SYMPATHETIC INK. 

Add to eight ounces of the blue sympathetic ink two drachms of 
chloride of nickel. Agitate together until dissolved, and it is ready 
for use. 

ANOTHER GREEN SYMPATHETIC INK. 

Nitro-Muriate of Cobalt 2 drachms. 

Soft Water 1 pint. 

Agitate together, and it is ready for use. 

This fluid, when applied to paper, and heated, gives a green tint, 
which disappears on cooling. 

YELLOW SYMPATHETIC INK. 

Sulphate of Copper 2 drachms. 

Muriate of Ammonia 2 drachms. 

Water, soft 1 pint. 

Agitate together until dissolved, and it is ready for use. 



192 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter 

This ink is colorless when used, but turns yellow upon exposure 
to heat. 

BLACK SYMPATHETIC INK. 

Sulphuric Acid 3 ounce. 

Soft Water l" pint. 

Agitate together, and it is ready for use. 

ROSE-PURPLE SYMPATHETIC INK. 

Acetate of Cobalt h ounce. 

Nitrate of Potassa 1 drachm. 

Soft Water 1 pint. 

Agitate together until dissolved, and it is ready for use. 

Heat developes the color, which disappears again when cooled. 



BLACK INDELIBLE INK. 

Nitrate of Silver, in crystals 8 ounces. 

Distilled Water 8 ounces. 

Mix, and agitate in a perfectly clean one-quart bottle, having a glass 
stopper, until the silver is dissolved. 

Into another bottle put 

Carbonate of Soda, in crystals 12 ounces. 

Distilled Water, (warm) 12 ounces. 

By placing the bottle in a vessel of warm water, and agitating, the 
soda will readily dissolve. 

After the contents of both bottles are dissolved, mix the two solutions, 
by adding the second to the first, in the following manner: Filter the 
solution of soda through a clean cotton or linen cloth, and as it passes 
through the cloth, which should be placed in a glass funnel, let it drip 
directly into the solution of silver. After both solutions are in one bottle, 
agitate occasionally for thirty minutes, during which time a precipitate, 
of the color and consistence of cream, will have formed. This must be 
collected and washed on a filter, to wit: In a wide-mouthed, clean bottle 
that holds two quarts, place a large glass funnel, into which insert a sheet 
of white filtering paper. Upon the paper then pour about one-fourth of 
the precipitate, at one time. Repeat every ten minutes, pouring out the 
same quantity each time, until the entire mixture has been poured into 
the funnel. The liquid portion will ]ia<s or drain through the filtering 
paper in about one hour, leaving the precipitate on the paper. After 
remaining forty minutes to drain, pour upon the precipitate that remains 
in the funnel four ounces of distilled water. In about ten miDutes pour 
upon the precipitate four ounces more of distilled water, and repeat this 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 193 

washing or filtering process five times in all, with an interval of ten 
minutes between each. After the last addition of water to the precipitate, 
leave it undisturbed for one hour and a half. Then remove the filtering 
paper, with the precipitate, (as they cannot easily be separated), into a 
clean, wide-mouthed bottle that holds two quarts. Throw away the 
filtrated liquid. 

Then add the following solution, which must be prepared the day 
previous: 

Sub-acetate of Copper, (chemically pure) 12 drachms and 48 grains. 

Strong Liquor Ammonia 3 ounces. 

Diluted with Distilled Water 2 ounces. 

Agitate occasionally for 21 hours. Filter this solution of copper 
through two thicknesses of filtering paper, in a glass funnel, into a bottle 
by itself. Then add it to the washed precipitate in the wide-mouthed 
bottle. Stir with a glass rod occasionally, for half an hour. Then add 
Tartaric Acid, pure and finely powdered 2 ounces and 320 grains. 

Constantly stirring the mixture with a glass rod for ten or fifteen 
minutes, or until effervescence has ceased. Then let it stand about 
fifteen minutes, when the following is to be added : 
Strong Liquor of Ammonia 8 ounces. 

Or a sufficient quantity to dissolve the tartrate of silver, gradually 
adding the ammonia, and stirring with a glass rod until the solutiou 
attains a beautiful, dark-blue color. Let it remain undisturbed for fifteen 
minutes. Then into another bottle insert a clean glass funnel, and in 
this place a piece of fine cotton cloth that is perfectly free from starch, 
aud which has just been washed in distilled water. The contents of the 
wide-mouthed bottle are then to be poured into the funnel, to filtrate 
through the cloth. After draining for ten or fifteen minutes in this way, 
squeeze out what liquor remains in the residuum in the cloth. Neither 
the cloth nor the residuum are of any further use, and may be thrown away. 

Then add the following solution, which must be prepared the day 
previous : 

Sap-Green, pure and finely pulverized | ounce. 

Strong Liquor of Ammouia 3 ounces. 

Diluted with Distilled Water 2 ounces. 

When the solution is perfect, filter through paper. 

Agitate thoroughly, by pouring the preparation from one wide- 
mouthed bottle to another, for five or ten minutes. Filter through paper, 
and let it stand in open bottles for twelve hours, to allow the ammonia to 
evaporate. Then add 
Pure Loaf Sugar, finely pulverized 8J ounces. 

Agitate, and in fifteen minutes add 
Pure White Gum Arabic, in fine powder 8 ounces. 

Stir thoroughly with a glass rod for a few minutes. 



194 -f^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW J3UTTER. 

After standing twelve hours, agitating occasionally, the process is 
completed. Bottle for use. 

The above makes about forty fluid-ounces of a superior black mark- 
ing fluid. It must be applied to a cloth (free from starch) with a gold or 
glass pen, or may be used with a stencil brush and a silver-plated stencil- 
plate. When first applied, it is of a light-green color, and after remain- 
ing five or ten minutes a hot flat-iron must be applied for a few moments, 
until the color becomes a beautiful black. 

To prevent scorching, it is advisable to first cover the marking with 
a thin cloth ; then apply the hot iron. This indelible ink will not injure 
the texture of the finest fabrics. 

TO MAKE OLD WRITING LOOK LIKE NEW. 

Ferro-cyanide of Potassium 1 drachm. 

Distilled Water 2 ounces. 

When dissolved, apply to the writing with a small camels'-hair brush. 

After it has dried, make an application of the following preparation : 

Muriatic Acid 1 drachm. 

Soft Water 3 ounces. 

Agitate well together. 

When this diluted acid is applied, the writing changes to a deep 
blue color. 

To prevent the spreading of the ink, apply the solution of potassium, 
with a glass or gold pen, to the writing, instead of whh a brush. 

TO GIVE NEW WRITING THE APPEARANCE OF AGE. 

Saffron % ounce. 

Hot Water 1 ounce. 

Simmer for a few minutes, and add 
Black Ink 1 pint. 

This ink, when spread upon paper, has the appearance of having 
been written for half a century. 

TO REMOVE INDELIBLE INK OR STAINS OF NITRATE OF SILVER. 

Moisten the parts with a solution prepared by dissolving one drachm 
of Ihe iodide of potassium in half an ounce of water, which, when 
applied to the stains or ink, converts the black oxyd of silver into a 
colorless iodide of silver. Or a solution of the cyanid of potassium 
may be used, which also renders the oxyd of silver colorless ; but the 
cyanid is a deadly poison, and great care must be exercised in its use ; 
the cloth, also, must be immediately washed. 

TO REMOVE INK-STAINS AND IRON-RUST FROM CLOTH. 

Oxalic Acid 2 ounces. 

Bitartrate of Potassa 1 ounce. 

Pnlverize and mix thoroughly together. 



j^RESH pGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 195 

This mixture should be kept in bottles tightly corked, and marked 
"Poison." 

When used, apply a small portion of the powder to the stain or rust, 
and moisten it with water ; or the foregoing quantity of the mixture may 
be dissolved in one quart of water. Have the cloth dry. Moisten the 
spots with the solution, and in a few minutes they will disappear. Then 
wash the cloth in clear water. It must be used only on white cloth. 

ANOTHER PROCESS. 

Apply the juice of ripe tomatoes, or of the pie-plant stalk, freely to 
ink-stains and iron-rust. Let it remain until dry, or repeat, if necessary, 
and then wash out. 

ANILINE INKS OF VARIOUS COLORS. 

Red Ink. 

Aniline "Red Diamond," or " Fuchsine" 15 grains. 

Gum Arabic Mucilage £ drachm. 

Pure Soft Water 1 ounce. 

Agitate a few moments, and it is ready for use. 

Make other colored inks as follows: green, violet, purple, blue, crim- 
son, orange, etc., by using the different colors of aniline, in the pro- 
portion of from ten to twenty grains to the ounce of water, according 
to the shade desired. Use only sufficient gum arable to prevent the ink 
spreading. Use the aniline that is soluble in water, and not the aniline 
that is only soluble in alcohol. 

The aniline is a dry powder, and may be conveniently used to make 
different colored inks at a moment's notice. 

BLACK INK FROM ELDERBERRIES. 

A German paper recommends that bruised elderberries be placed in 
an earthen vessel and kept in a warm place for three days, then pressed 
out and filtered. Add to twelve and a half quarts of this filtered juice 
one ounce of the sulphate of iron and the same quantity of crude pyrolig- 
neous acid. The result is an ink which, when first used, has a violet 
color, but when dry is an indigo blue-black. This ink does not become 
thick as soon as other inks, flows easily from the pen without gumming, 
and does not, in writing, run the letters together. — Druggists' 1 Circular 
and Chemical Gazette. 

AN EXCELLENT INDELIBLE INK. 

Rub up one drachm of aniline black with a mixture of sixty drops 
of concentrated hydrochloric acid and one and a half ounces of alcohol. 
The resulting deep-blue liquid is then to be diluted with a hot solution of 
one and a half drachms of gum arabic in six ounces of water. This ink 
does not corrode a steel pen, and is affected neither by concentrated 



196 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow ^utter. 

mineral acids nor by strong lye. If the aniline black solution be diluted 
with one and a half ounces of gum shellac dissolved in six ounces of 
alcohol, instead of with gum arabic water, an aniline black is obtained, 
which, after being applied to wood, brass, or leather, is remarkable for 
its extraordinary deep-black color. — American Artisan. 

TO ASCERTAIN THE AGE OF OLD WRITINGS, AND HOW TO COPT THEM. 

M. Carre, the author, states that as long as writing is not very old 
it admits of being copied, when moistened with water only, by means of 
the well-known copying press ; further, that when writing has attained 
a certain age, an adulteration has taken place in the ink, which prevents 
the ordinary process of copying being successful ; but, in that case, 
moistening with twenty parts of water acidulated with one part of hydro- 
chloric acid effectually aids the copying process. M. Carre found that 
writing made in 1787 could not be reproduced by. a copying press, even 
when previously moistened with acidulated water. ]Siepec St. Victor, 
however, gives a new process for copying very old writings. Ordinary 
copying paper is used, but is wetted with a thin solution of glucose or 
honey, instead of water. On coming out of the press the paper is exposed 
to strong ammonia, which brings out very clearly lines otherwise almost 
illegible. — Druggists' Circular and Chemical Gazette. 



VARNISHES. 

SHELLAC VARNISH TRANSPARENT. 

Bleached Gum Shellac, in powder Bounces. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 quart. 

Agitate in a bottle occasionally during twenty-four hours, keeping it 
closely corked, and it will be ready for use. 

Or it may be made in two or three hours' time by heating it in a 
water-bath, keeping the bottle tightly corked. 

ORANGE SHELLAC VARNISH. 

Prepared in the same manner as the above, with the exception that 
orange or common gum shellac is used (in the same proportion) instead 
of the bleached gum. 

BLACK SHELLAC VARNISH. 

To one quart of the common or orange shellac varnish add one 
ounce of pure lampblack, or sufficient to produce a deep black color. 



J^RESH ^GGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER 197 

Shellac varnishes are used principally by cabinet makers, model 
makers, etc., and should be applied with a varnish brush. They dry 
quickly, owing to the evaporation of the alcohol, leaving an air and 
water-proof coating. By repeating the application two or three times, 
drying each, and slightly sand-papering between applications, a smooth, 
glossy finish is obtained. When the varnish becomes too thick to be 
readily applied, more alcohol should be added. 

SHELLAC VARNISHES OF OTHER COLORS. 

(Red Shellac Varnish.) 

Aniline Red (fuchsine) 1 drachm. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 ounce. 

Agitate occasionally for a few hours until the aniline is dissolved. 
Then add 
Transparent Shellac Varnish 1 quart. 

By using the various colors of aniline, soluble in alcohol, other tints 
may be imparted to transparent shellac varnish. 

TRANSPARENT VARNISH FOR IRON AND STEEL. 

Gum Shellac, bleached and pulverized 2 J ounces. 

(rum Sandarac, pulverized 1 ounce. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 pint. 

Mix, agitate, and it will be ready for use in twenty-four hours. 

This preparation forms a water-proof coating for iron and steel, 
which not only prevents them from corrosion or rust, but preserves their 
brilliancy. 

COPAL VARNISH. 

Camphor Gum 20 pounds. 

Sulphuric Ether 80 gallons. 

Dissolve the camphor in the ether, and add 
Best Copal Resin, in powder 80 pounds. 

After standing twenty-four hours, with occasional agitation, add 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 10 gallons. 

Spirits of Turpentine 2=5- gallons. 

Keep the cask tightly bunged, rolling it about occasionally for one 
day, at the expiration of which time a thoroughly good copal varnish 
will be made. 

INDIA RUBBER VARNISH. 

India Rubber, in thin slices 1 ounce. 

Naphtha 1 pint. 

Agitate for a few days, until the rubber is dissolved. 

Raw Linseed Oil 2 quarts. 

Copal Varnish 2 quarts. 

Heat altogether, gradually for about one hour, stirring occasionally. 

13 



108 j^RESH pGGS AND YELLOW EuTTER 

TO BOIL LINSEED OIL. 

Raw Linseed Oil 1 gallon. 

Black Oxyd of Manganese 1 pound. 

Boil for three or four hours, and strain through flannel while hot. 

Instead of using the manganese, substitute 
Litharge 4 ounces. 

And proceed as before. 

Litharge makes a darker oil than manganese. 



BLACKING. 

WATER-PROOF BLACKING FOR BOOTS AND SHOES, HARNESSES, CARRIAQE- 
TOPS, AND ALL LEATHER. 

Boiled Linseed Oil 2 quarts. 

Tallow 6 pounds. 

Besin 3} pounds. 

Beeswax 2 pounds. 

Neats-foot Oil 1 pint. 

Castor Oil J pint. 

Solution of India Rubber 8 fluid-ozs. 

Lampblack \ pound. 

Melt together. To be applied in a melted condition, with a brush 
or sponge. 

Directions for Use. — Have the leather clean, and moistened with a 
little water, so that it will be pliable ; then apply the water-proof black- 
ing freely, and rub thoroughly with the hands or brush until the leather 
is saturated ; also, fill the crevice between the soles and upper. It is 
better to let the leather dry moderately for an hour or two before wearing. 
Renew the application whenever occasion requires, which will be \ery 
seldom unless the leather is greatly exposed to water or snow. This 
blacking preserves the leather in a pliable condition, and renders it snow- 
water-proof. 

This preparation may also be applied to the soles of boots and shoes ; 
for this purpose it must be used hot. 

Have the soles of the boots or shoes dry, clean and warm, by holding 
them over the stove for a few moments while the composition is heating. 
Then, with a swab or brush, apply it freely to the soles. After each coat, 
hold the soles again over the stove, (but not where it is too hot), until the 
composition is absorbed. Renew the hot application four or five times, 
or until the sole-leather is fully saturated; then let the boots or shoes 



Fresh F,ggs and Yellow Butter. 199 

remain in a warm room an hour or two before wearing. No more appli- 
cations are required, as the preparation cannot be displaced by water, it 
having formed an insoluble compound with the sole-leather, whereby it is 
toughened and rendered impervious to air, snow and water. 

When prepared expressly for the soles of boots and shoes, the lamp- 
black may be omitted. 

ANOTHER PREPARATION FOR THE SOLES, 

Which we consider superior to the above. 

Copal Varnish 1 pint. 

Paraffin Wax £ pound. 

Melt together, and apply while hot, as above directed. 



CEMENT. 

BEST CEMENT FOR GENERAL PURPOSES. 

Cooper's Isinglass 2 drachms. 

Water , 2 ounces. 

Soak the isinglass in the water for twenty-four hours. Then boil 
it down to one-half the quantity, and add 
Alcohol 1 ounce. 

While hot, strain through a linen cloth. Then add the following 
mixture, previously prepared : 

Gum Mastic 1 drachm. 

Gum Ammoniac J drachm. 

Alcohol 1 ounce. 

Melt together in a water-bath. 

In cementing, warm the edges of the article to be united, and spread 
the cement thinly over the entire surface. 

CEMENT FOR IRON AND STONE. 

A very durable cement has been in use by parties in Saxony for 
several years, which is composed of oxyd of lead, litharge, and concen- 
trated glycerin. It is said to harden rapidly, and to be unaffected by the 
ordinary acids, and by heat. The inventor claims that it is less easily 
broken than stone itself. — Boston Journal of Chemistry. 



200 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

cement for glass, crockery, metals, etc. 

Gum Mastic, white, in powder 2 ounces. 

Gum Shellac, bleached, in powder 2 ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 percent 1 pint. 

Mix in a tightly corked bottle, and agitate occasionally until dissolved. 

Into a tin vessel put 

White Glue 5 ounce. 

Warm Water 3 ounces. 

Macerate for five hours. Then heat in a water-bath until the glue 
is dissolved. 

Gradually heat the bottle containing the mastic, shellac and alcohol 
in a water-bath to 160° Fahr. 

Both liquids are then to be poured together, at a temperature of 160°. 
Agitate occasionally until cooled. 

Keep in vials tightly corked. When required for use, place the vial 
in a basin of hot water until the cement is dissolved. Warm the edges of 
the article to be joined, and apply a thin coating of the hot cement with 
a small brush. Set the cemented article aside for twenty-four hours 
before using. 

GUM FOR LABELS, POSTAGE AND REVENUE STAMPS. 

White Glue 2 pound. 

Warm Water 1 quart. 

Put into a tin vessel, and place it in a water-bath, about 100° Fahr., 
for eight hours. 

Then add 

White Sugar T 14 ounces. 

Gum Arabic, white, powdered 10 ounces. 

Increase the heat in the water-bath to about the boiling point, stir- 
ring occasionally for one hour, or until all the substances are dissolved. 

When partially cool, bottle for use. This solution is then spread upon 
paper, and dried in the open air. 

CEMENT FOR ATTACHING LARELS TO TIN WARE. 

Liquid Silicate of Soda, 25° Baume 1 quart. 

Resin, in powder 1 ounce. 

Simmer in a water-bath for one hour, stirring occasionally. 

This cement may be applied either warm or cold. It will perman- 
ently fasten paper to tin, to which ordinary paste will not adhere. It may 
also be used to attach labels to bottles, wood, metals, etc. 

MOUTH GLUE. 

White Glue 1 ounce. 

Cold Water 4 ounces. 



Fresh JJggs and Yellow Butter. 201 

Macerate for six hours. Simmer over a water-bath one hour, or 
until the glue is dissolved. Add 
White Sugar 1 ounce. 

Evaporate the whole in a water-bath until dry, and run into moulds, 
or cut into cakes, as preferred. 

This is a convenient and substantial form of preparing glue to carry 
in the pocket for instantaneous use. 

GRAFTING-WAX FOR FRUIT TREES. 

White Resin 1 pound. 

Beeswax 3 ounces. 

Tallow 3 ounces. 

Melt together, 

This makes a good grafting-wax for various temperatures. 
Grafting-wax should be of such a consistence that it will not crack 
in the cold winds of March or April, nor melt in the heat of summer. 

RED SEALING-WAX. 

Gum Shellac ....1 pound. 

Venice Turpentine \ pound. 

Vermilion, to color J pound. 

Melt together, and run into sticks. 

BLUE SEALING-WAX. 

Use Prussian-blue, more or less, instead of vermilion, to color 
the wax. 

BLACK SEALING-WAX. 

Use lampblack, only sufficient to color the foregoing proportions of 
gum shellac and Venice turpentine. 

GREEN SEALING-WAX. 

Use verdigris in powder, combined with the above formula, to pro- 
duce a green color. 

OUR IMPROVED RED SEALING-WAX. 

White E-esin 4 pounds. 

Beeswax 4 ounces. 

Light English Vermilion Bounces. 

Melt together. 

Use for sealing bottles, packages, and other purposes. We find it 
equal to that made with gum shellac, at less than one fourth of the 
expense. American vermilion, which is cheaper, may be used instead 
of the English, but is not so fine a color. For different colors, use other 
pigments. 



202 J^RESH JiGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 

COMPARATIVE WEIGHT OF VARIOUS SUBSTANCES. 

Platinum, heaviest known substance, a cubic foot weighs 1.218 pounds. 
Platinum is fusible only by the oxy-hydrogen blow-pipe. 

Gold melts 2. 016° cubic foot weighs 1,203 pounds. 

Mercury (Quicksilver) " " " 977 " 

Lead melts 612° « " " 709 

Silver melts 1.875° " " " 654 

Copper melts 2.000° " " " 555 

Brass melts 1,900° " " " 537 " 

Cast Iron melts 2,800° " " " 450 

Lime-stone " " " 198 " 

Clay " " " 135 

Water " " " 02 " 

Ice « " " 58 

White Oak " " " 45 

Pine " " " 31 

Cork " « " 15 

Atmospheric Air " " " 1J- oz. 

Coal Gas, lightest known substance " " " £ " 

TO RE-CUT AND RENEW OLD FILES OR RASPS. 

Nitric Acid, commercial strength, by measure 5 ounces. 

Sulphuric Acid, commercial strength, by measure 16 ounces. 

Cold Water 1 quart. 

Mix together, in a wide-mouthed, two-quart bottle, or glass fi*uit jar, of 
sufficient width to admit of files and rasps being inserted. Gradually 
add, first the nitric, then the sulphuric acid to the water. If mixed 
quickly it might generate sufficient heat to break the bottle. Keep the 
jar corked when not in use, and have it labeled roison. 

To harden new files and rasps, dip them in the solution for fifteen 
seconds. 

To recut old files and rasps, first wash them in strong, hoi soap suds, 
to remove grease; then rinse in clear water, and immerse them in the acid 
solution from two to four minutes, according to the more or less worn 
condition of the metal. After the above treatment, wash them in clear, 
cold water; and, to prevent rusting, wash them in lime-water, made by 
putting two or three ounces of common lime into two or three quarts of 
water, and immediately dry the files by the fire. 

QUICK PROCESS FOR PICKLING CUCUMBERS. 

Good Vinegar 1 gallon. 

Mace h ounce. 

Cloves 2 dozen. 

Ginger Root, powdered Jounce. 

Salt 1 teaspoon-ful. 

Simmer altogether for ten minutes, in a porcelain kettle. Then put 
in the cucumbers, and simmer for fifteen minutes longer. Finally, pour 
all into a glass or wooden vessel, and closely cover them. 



j^RESH jiGGS AND yELLOW J3UTTER. 203 

TO COLOR PICKLES. 

Cucumbers, etc., are usually colored with verdigris, which is poison- 
ous, and should not be used. The best plan to impart, or, rather, to 
retain the color in pickled fruits and vegetables, is to pour on them a 
scalding preparation made thus : 

Common Salt 2 pounds. 

Hot Water 1 gallon. 

When the salt is dissolved, pour the hot solution on the vegetables, 
allowing it to remain three or four hours. Then pour off the salt water 
and pour on good vinegar, scalding hot. 

Allow it to remain four days ; remove and scald, and pour on again. 
Let them remain in the vinegar until required for use. 

This process causes cucumbers, string-beans, peas, etc., to attain a 
dark-green color, without the use of poisonous substances. 

COLORS FOR ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS. 

For blue, sulphate of indigo in solution ; for yellow, tincture of tur- 
meric ; for red, carmine dissolved in a solution of the carbonate of 
potash ; for lilac, a solution of litmus ; for violet, a solution of litmus 
mixed with blue. When the flowers are made of paper or muslin, they 
may be dipped in these colors ; but when made of velvet they should be 
colored by the finger dipped in the dye. — Boston Journal of Chemistry. 

STARCH POLISH. 

Equal parts of spermaceti and white wax melted together. A piece 
as large as a chestnut is sufficient for one quart of starch. 

A tablespoon-ful of gum arabic solution, mixed in the starch, imparts 
to the clothing, when ironed, a beautiful gloss. 

PUTTY REMOVED FROM BROKEN WINDOWS. 

With a small brush or swab apply muriatic or nitric acid over the 
dry putty that adheres to the broken glass and frames of windows. Make 
two or three applications within fifteen minutes, and in about one hour 
the putty will be softened, and can be readily removed. 

WOOD GAS. 

The following figures exhibit the remarkable products, and their 
values, yielded by one cord of oak wood, w r hen subjected to distillation 
in close retorts : 

5,000 feet. Illuminating Gas, at $2 per thousand feet $10 00 

50 bushels Charcoal, at 10 cents per bushel 5 00 

2 barrels Tar, at $2 per barrel 4 00 

5 gallons Naphtha, at 20 cents per gallon 1 00 

100 gallons Vinegar, at 25 cents per gallon 25 00 

Total value of products $45 00 



204 ^RESH JiGGS AND YELLOW J3uTTER 

WHITEWASH FOR WALLS. 

Wliite Glue 4 ounces. 

Cold Water 1 quart. 

Put into a tin pail and let it stand for twelve hours. 

Place the pail in a water-bath over a fire, stirring occasionally until 
the glue is dissolved. 

In another vessel mix 

Paris White (Sulphate of Baryta) 9 pounds. 

Hot AVater, sufficient to make a mixture the consistence or' 

cream 1 gallon. 

Stir until well mixed. Then add the solution of glue (or sizing) 
prepared as above directed. Continue to stir until the materials are 
thoroughly combined, and apply while hot with a clean whitewash or 
other suitable brush. This makes an adhesive whitewash resembling 
paint. By the addition of a little yellow ochre, or other pigments, various 
colors may be produced. Applying this whitewash hot will prevent its 
rubbing off when dry. Freshly slaked lime may be substituted for the 
Paris white, if preferred, but does not give so white a finish. 

FRESH MEAT PRESERVED IN HOT WEATHER. 

Put fresh meat into earthenware or stone jars, covering it with 
skim-milk. The meat will remain sweet for eight or ten days after the 
milk has soured. The same result may be obtained by the use of fresh 
buttermilk. 

HONEY (IMITATION). 

White Sugar 12 pounds. 

Honey, in the comb 3 pounds. 

Gum Arabic, pulverized 3 ounces. 

Rose Leaves, dry 1 drachm. 

Warm Water - quarts. 

Mix, and simmer in a water-bath for one hour, stirring occasionally. 
Then beat up the whites of three eggs in a pint of warm water, add to the 
above, and continue to simmer for fifteen minutes. Remove the scum, 
and strain while hot through flannel cloth. When partially cool, add 

Essence of Peppermint 20 drops. 

Essence of Wintergreen 15 drops. 

Essence of Vanilla 10 drops. 

Juice of Lemon 1 teaspoon-ful. 

Stir well together, and put into bottles or jars for use. This is a 
good imitation of honey, and is perfectly wholesome. 

MORTAR — TO PREPARE. 

The mortar used by the ancient Romans gave their marvelous masonry 
far more stability and durability than that with which we are now 
familiar. The mortar of the present day hardens very slowly, tears 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow j3utter 205 

after hardening, does not become very firm, crumbles easily after a time, 
and fails to unite with the building material; so that after a wall has 
thoroughly hardened little difficulty is experienced in removiug a single 
stone or brick from the upper courses of the masonry. 

Investigations of the ancient Roman mortar show that the greater 
portion of it was converted into silicates, closely combined with the 
particles of quartz with which they came in contact. It is well known 
that with modern mortar the formation of silicate is not effected until 
after considerable time has elapsed, and then only in a very slight, 
measure. But the firmness of mortar relies upon these silicates, which 
at the same time give it power to resist the action of water. In accord- 
ance with this fact, the following formula for preparing a substantial 
mortar is here presented: 

Lime, thoroughly and freshly slaked 1 part. 

Sand, finely sifted 3 parts. 

Just before using, add 

Lime, fresh and unslaked J part. 

While being mixed the mortar heats. It should be used immediately. 

FIRE-PROOF PAINT. 

To either slaked or unslaked lime add cold or hot water. Mix 
together as for whitewash, and allow the mixture to stand twenty-four 
hours before using, stirring occasionally. 

Then, with a clean whitewash or paint brush, apply the mixture to 
either boards, stones, or bricks, giving them a thorough coating, and 
rubbing well with the brush, so that all the cracks shall be filled, the 
mixture being sufficiently thin to flow readily from the brush. 

When the first application is about half dry, make a second one with 
the same mixture. 

Within an hour afterwards, or when the second application is about 
half dry, with a clean brush apply freely over the first mixture (in the 
same manner as varnish), liquid silicate of soda, 25° Baume. This will 
dry in one or two hours, during which time it combines with the lime 
and forms an insoluble silicate of lime and soda. 

A second application of the silicate of soda may be made at any time 
after one day. A third application, within a few days after the second, 
will be sufficient. 

No salt, glue, grease, oil. or other substance, should ever be mixed 
with the lime or silicate of soda, as such materials prevent the chemical 
union of the silicate with the lime. 

Never apply the silicate of soda before the lime, as the lime will not 
afterwards properly adhere. 

Neither mix the silicate with the lime mixture, but use them separ- 
ately, as above directed. It is much better to apply the silicate while 



206 J^resh J£ggs and Jellow Gutter. 

the limed surface is somewhat damp, or half dry, than to defer its 
application longer. 

The silicate of soda changes the color of the lime to that of cream. 
A nearly pure white may be produced by using oxyd of zinc mixed with 
cold water, and applying it in the same manner as recommended for the 
whitewash. Paris white, or whiting, mixed with water, may also 
be used. 

[Note. — M"terthe silicate of soda is applied, make no farther application of lime, 
zinc, Paris white, or any other pigment,, as a subsequent coating will be sure to scale 
off in a short time] 

When other shades of color are desired, yellow or red ochre, or any 
pigment of a neutral or alkaline character, may be combined with the 
white, or mixed with cold water and used separately. 

If this paint is applied to green lumber, it may crack somewhat 
when the wood dries and shrinks; but this can be obviated, in a measure, 
by making an application of shellac varnish, as a finishing coat, within a 
few days after the last application of the silicate of soda. 

The bleached shellac varnish should be used on the white, and the 
common orange or liver-colored shellac varnish may be spread over 
the colors. 

ARTIFICIAL STONE AND MARBLE. 

All rocks which are not calcareous (containing lime) are silicious 
(containing sand). 

Carbonate of lime is found of various colors and aspects, as chalk, 
marble, and limestone. It consists simply of carbonic acid and lime. 

Silicon, in combination with oxygen, forms sand-stone, which consti- 
tutes 45 per cent, of the solid crust of the globe ; occurring in a pure 
state, as quartz, (rock-crystal — also known as silicic aiid, silex, or silica,) 
and almost pure in chalcedony, flint agate and cornelian. Sand-stone 
usually consists of the materials of older rocks, as granite broken up 
and comminuted, and afterwards deposited again. 

When sand-stone crumbles, or is reduced to fine grains, it is called 
silicious sand, the most common and abundant form of silicic acid. 

• The grains of sand are sometimes cemented together firmly, or solidi- 
fied, when they form silicious rock, or sand-stone. 

Silicic acid, or quartz, in its ordinary form, is insoluble, and, there- 
fore, inert, but when melted it becomes a powerful acid, combining with 
alkalies and metalic bases, producing a large family of salts — the silicates. 
Thus glass results from the melting and union of silica with potash, soda 
and lime. It is a mixture of true salts — silicates of potash, soda and 
lime. When combined with metals, silica exists in the same relationship. 
It forms compounds by uniting with bases which are salifiable. 

It is on this principle that artificial stone is formed. 



J^RESH JlGGS AND JeLL-OW ^UTTER. 207 

Tlie materials used are common brown or white sand, (silica), sal- 
soda, and chloride of calcium. 

The silica, which is the cementing agent, is mixed with carbonate of 
soda and exposed, in a furnace or glass-melting pot, to a strong heat, until 
the entire mass fuses uniformly. When completely melted, it constitutes 
the silicate of soda of commerce. (See process for manufacturing silicate 
of soda.) 

TO PREPARE ARTIFICIAL STONE. 

Take liquid silicate of soda, 30° Baume. Add sufficient sand to form, 
when thoroughly mixed, a mass having the consistence of dough, which is 
called "pug." It is very plastic, and may be worked by the hands as 
readily as wet clay or putty. When of the proper consistence, it may be 
pressed in a mould of the required pattern. 

The mould may be in the form of a flower, rosette, or a leaf-orna- 
ment, a key-stone, vase, pedestal, or section of a mantel-piece. Any 
form, indeed, may be produced in a few minutes, more beautiful than a 
stone-cutter could produce after days of patient labor. 

After the design is moulded into shape, it is immersed in a solution 
of chloride of calcium. It then hardens, by the result of their mutual 
decomposition and re-formation as silicone of lime and chloride of sodium; 
the former remaining as an indestructible bond throughout the stone — the 
latter soluble and easily removed by washing with water. 

This valuable product, which is now taking the place of marble man- 
tel-pieces, is prepared by using sand of various shades, and polishing the 
surface after it becomes thoroughly dry. It is a perfect imitation of mar- 
ble, resembling the white or Italian variety, and, although it is more 
durable, the expense is about one-fourth that of true marble. 

PRESERVATION OF BUILDING STONE. 

Much of the building stone contains a small per-centage of protoxyd 
of iron, imparting to the stone the characteristic blue-greenish tint, 
and exposure to the atmosphere converts the protoxyd into hydrated 
sesquioxyd of iron, known as iron rust, which causes the stone to assume 
a dingy-brown appearance. 

To remedy this defect, apply two or three coats of liquid silicate of 
soda, 25° Baume, allowing one or more days for drying between each 
application. 

The unprotected stone fronts in buildings, after a few months" ex- 
posure, usually change to a brownish hue. 

To give these fronts a new appearance, remove the oxyd by rubbing 
with sand-paper, which can be readily accomplished. Then immediately 
apply the liquid silicate of soda, 25° Baume, as above directed for new 
stone. This forms an insoluble coating, giving it a glass-like finish, and 
protects the stone from oxydation. 



208 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

preservation of timber. 
Immerse the timber in a hot solution prepared by dissolving two 
pounds of borax to the gallon of water. The timber should remain in 
this hot solution, in large water-tight vats, until the wood is thoroughly 
saturated. Then remove, and when dry apply the liquid silicate of soda, 
25° Baume, in the manner of varnish. After drying for a day or two, 
apply a another coating of the solution of the silicate; this may be 
repeated two or three times, at intervals of at least one day. Instead of 
the silicate, fire-proof paint, mentioned on page 205, may be used. Tim- 
ber impregnated by the solution of borax will not decay, and will not be 
attacked by insects, grubs, etc. 

DECAY OF TIMBER. 

The microscope shows that the decay of timber is largely due to 
parasites feeding on the albuminous substances of the wood. The fol- 
lowing conditions are favorable to decay: The presence of parasites, or 
germs, albuminous matter, moisture, free oxygen, together with a warm 
temperature. 

Boiling water destroys all parasitic germs, coagulates the albuminoids, 
and the pores being filled with the borax, the wood is rendered incom- 
bustible and almost imperishable. 

The albuminoids are highly hygroscopic, and, in consequence, expand 
or contract with every atmospheric change ; but wood treated with borax, 
which is a good antiseptic, and silicate of soda, as above directed, is no 
longer subject to such changes, and must remain in a perfect state of 
preservation for an indefinite period. 

Various substances have been used for the preservation of timber, as 
sulphate of copper, sulphate of iron, chloride of zinc, corrosive sublimate, 
arsenic and common salt. These articles are good antiseptics, but require 
that the wood be thoroughly saturated with them, as with borax ; but 
when they are employed for this purpose the silicate of soda cannot be 
used in combination with them. 

To effectually preserve timber, it must be saturated with the anti- 
septic agent. AVhen it is merely coated with the agent, or is penetrated 
but a short distance, eremacausis, or slow decay, is not prevented. 



J^RESH pGGS AND JELLOW BUTTER 209 



PLATING SOLUTIONS. 

TO PREPARE ARTICLES FOR PLATING. 

AVash the article in a weak lye — which may be made by dissolving a 
teaspoon-ful of saleratus in two-thirds of a tumbler-ful of soft water — to 
remove any grease. Einse in clear soft water. Then dip the article into 
a solution of nitric acid diluted with an equal quantity of distilled water, 
to remove oxyds. Scour for a few moments with a hard brush and the 
polishing cream ; after which rub clean and dry with a hard brush. Then 
dip the article for a moment in strong nitric acid, and immediately immerse 
it in the electro-plating solution, which is thus prepared for 

PLATING WITH GOLD. 

Cyanide of Potassium 1 ounce. 

Pure Water 1 pint. 

Put these into a wide-mouthed, flint-glass bottle that holds a little over 
a pint, and agitate. When dissolved, add 
Chloride of Gold 1 drachm. 

It is now ready for use. 

Immediately after the article to be plated has been cleaned, as before 
directed, suspend it in the gold solution by a small strip of zinc not 
exceeding one-eighth of an inch in width, and this strip must hang on a 
copper wire that extends across the mouth of the bottle. 

Once in about every fifteen minutes the article and the zinc should 
be taken out of the solution and rubbed for a few moments with a brush 
and the polishing cream. Then replace them as before in the solution. 
Repeat this operation every fifteen minutes, until the plating is suffi- 
ciently thick. Foui 1 or five immersions in the solution are generally 
enough. The point of attachment of the zinc to the article which is being 
plated should be changed once or twice during the process; otherwise the 
points of contact will remain unplated. 

When it is not in use, the plating solution should be well corked, and 
so kept ready for use at any time. To preserve it still better, wrap a 
heavy blue paper around the bottle, tying down the cork with a cord, in 
order to protect the chemicals from light and air. The bottle should be 
labeled "Poison," and placed beyond the reach of children. 

Electro-gilding, or plating, as above described, has the reputation of 
being an expensive process, and most of those engaged in the business 
deceive the public as to its cost. The actual expense may safely be esti- 
mated as follows: A silver thimble may be handsomely plated with gold 



210 Fresh Eggs and Yellow j3utter. 

for ten cents, a pencil-case for twenty cents, and a watch-case for consid- 
erably less than three dollars. 

The relative difference in the price of plating with gold or silver is 
as sixteen to one, in the cost of materials. The value of pure silver 
required for plating a large-sized tea or coffee-pot ranges from $1.50 to 
$2.00. One and a half ounces of pure silver will plate a surface of 144 
square inches as thick as ordinary writing paper. Estimate the value of 
silver coin, and you can readily arrive at the expense of plating as maDy 
square inches as you desire. 

SILVER-PLATING SOLUTION — TO PLATE BRASS, COPPER, AND GERMAN SILVER, 
AND TO RE-PLATE ANY ARTICLE WITH SILVER, WITHOUT A BATTERY. 

Nitrate of Silver 1 ounce. 

Distilled Water 2 ounces. 

Agitate in a bottle until the silver is dissolved. 

Into another bottle put 

Cyanide of Potassium, powdered 1£ ounces. 

Distilled Water 2 ounces. 

Agitate until the potassium salt is dissolved. 

Then add the contents of one bottle to those of the other, and agitate 
strongly for a few minutes. 

Then add, and thoroughly incorporate, 
Best Paris White 3 ounces. 

Or sufficient to make a mixture of the consistence of cream, and it 
will be ready for use. 

Polish the articles designed to receive the plating with finely 
powdered emery or Paris white, just before applying the silver-plating 
mixture, which should be applied with a cotton or linen cloth, and rub it 
thoroughly for a few moments, when the article will be plated with pure 
silver. 

Immediately after plating, the articles must be washed in soap-suds, 
rinsed in clear water, and wiped dry. 

Heavier plating may be produced by repeating the application; but 
it is impossible to produce a very thick, firm coating by this process, 
which is particularly applicable to articles not afterwards subjected to 
much wear or scouring. 

ANOTHER PROCESS FOR SILVER-PLATING. 

Thoroughly cleanse the brass or copper surface to be plated, by im- 
mersing it for a moment in nitric acid. Then apply the following mixture 
with a stiff brush, rubbing briskly : 

Cream of Tartar 100 parts. 

Chloride of Silver 10 parts. 

Corrosive Sublimate 1 part. 

Paris White 40 parts. 



Fresh jSggs and Yellow Butter. 211 

Distilled water, sufficient to form the foregoing into a paste of the 
consistence of cream. 

The plating is then to be polished in the usual manner, with a brush, 
or it may be "burnished" by rubbing it carefully with any very hard 
and smooth instrument. 

POLISHING CREAM TO CLEAN SILVER PLATE. 

Water 1 quart. 

Carbonate of Potassa 1 ounce. 

Paris White 1 pound. 

Mix in a porcelain or tin vessel, and boil in it the articles to be 
cleaned for twenty minutes. Then remove the dish from the fire, and 
when cool each article is to be polished well with soft chamois skin. A 
suitable brush may be used to polish all embossed or engraved parts. 

Or the above may be applied cold, and the articles thoroughly polished 
with it. 

TO PLATE COPPER AND BRASS WITH TIN. 

Bitartrate of Potassa 1} pounds. 

Soft Water 1 gallon. 

Boil until dissolved. Then add 
Grain Tin, in shavings 2 pounds. 

Boil again, for about one hour. 

The article designed to be tinned is then put into the solution and 
boiled for one hour, or until a coating of tin is deposited on the surface 
of the article. 

TO PLATE OR GALVANIZE IRON. 

Thoroughly wash the oil or grease from the sheets of iron with strong 
soap-suds, or other alkaline solution. Then immerse them in diluted nitric 
acid, to remove the oxyd that remains on the surface, and immediately 
plunge them into a bath of melted zinc. As soon as the surface is 
thoroughly coated with the zinc, take them from the bath. 

A more costly and troublesome process is to galvanize the sheets of 
iron with the aid of a battery, whereby they receive a deposit of zinc on 
the surface; but the above formula is preferable, owing to its simplicity 
and cheapness, and is substantially the process employed in large 
manufactories. 

KEROSENE OIL AND ITS ADULTERATIONS. 

The mixture of salt, soda, nitre, alum, or any other substance with 
kerosene oil or benzine, naphtha, etc., does not improve their illuminating 
qualities, or render them less inflammable or explosive. 

Kerosene oil is frequently adulterated with gasoline, benzine, or 
naphtha, and sold under various names as new oils, and frequently at 
less prices than kerosene. These adulterants cost but about half as much 
as kerosene, which is the motive for their use. 



212 Fresh Fxsgs and Yellow Butter. 

Soda, borax, and other substances, it is said, are sometimes added to 
"neutralize" the explosive properties of these compounds, but they are 
perfectly useless, as the addition of any substance will not subdue the 
explosive nature of benzine without destroying its illuminating power. 

Gasoline, benzine, or naphtha, should never be combined with kero- 
sene for illuminating purposes, as it is the presence of these inflammable 
and explosive fluids that causes so many of the disasters recorded as 
kerosene-lamp explosions. Kerosene oil, below the legal standard tem- 
perature of 110° Fahr., is explosive. 

The breaking of lamps which have not been properly annealed, by 
unequal expansion of the glass, is the cause of many disasters reported 
as "explosions." 

To test kerosene oil, as to its liability to explode, take a tin cup of 
water heated to 100° by the thermometer, pouring into it a tablespoon-ful 
of the oil. Then hold a lighted match immediately over the q,up, and if 
the vapor arising from the oil flashes or takes fire, it shows an excess of 
benzine in the oil, caused by the addition of benzine or naptha to the ker- 
osene. If the oil or vapor does not take fire at 100°, gradually increase 
the heat of the water, and frequently repeat the test, occasionally adding 
fresh oil to the water, until it does flash or take fire, carefully noting the 
degree of heat at which this result is attained. If the oil does not gen- 
erate sufficient vapor to burn or flash at 110° Fahr., it is to be considered 
a safe illuminating oil. In refining kerosene oil by "fractional distilla- 
tion," some manufacturers purposely allow part of the volatile oils to 
remain, so as to increase the product and profit of their operations. 

TO REFINE KEROSENE OIL. 

To refine kerosene oil which contains an excess of benzine or naphtha, 
or other impurities, add one pound of coarsely powdered animal char- 
coal to each gallon of the oil. Shake well together. Then pour it 
into an open vessel, which is to be placed in a water-bath heated to 125° 
Fahr. Allow the oil to remain in the water-bath two hours, stirring it 
occasionally. At the expiration of that time more volatile oils will have 
sufficiently escaped to render the oil safe. Set the vessel aside for a few 
hours, to settle; after which the oil should be strained through cloth. 
It is then ready for use. 

L'Kl'ROLEUJI. 

It is a singular fact that in boring for oil the heaviest kind is first 
found, generally at a depth ranging from eighty to one hundred feet, 
while the lighter petroleum is seldom readied at less than eight or ten 
hundred feet. The oils nearest the surface were undoubtedly once light, 
but by absorbing oxygen their natures have been changed. 



j^RESH jiGGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER, 213 

During the distillation of petroleum, the following products are 
expelled at the following (Fahrenheit) temperatures : 

Chimogene 70° 

Rhigolene 120° 

Gasoline 170° 

Naphtha 250° 

Benzine 300° 

Kerosene, light 400° 

Kerosene 500° 

Kerosene, heavy 000° 

Paraffin 700° 

PETROLEUM AS A WOOD-PRESERVATIVE. 

Wood may be saturated by immersing it in vats of heavy petroleum oil, 
or by applying to it fresh coatings of the oil every day, with a brush, 
until the wood has entirely absorbed the oil. The volatile portions of the 
oil will soon evaporate, leaving the pores of the wood filled with a 
bituminous substance, which effectually excludes the air and renders it 
water-proof. Ordinary paint, made with linseed oil, preserves the wood 
by forming a coat which protects it from the effects of air and water, 
leaving the interior part liable to dry-rot; but petroleum, as before 
stated, penetrates every part of the wood, and, being a good antiseptic, 
prevents decay, and also the ravages of worms, insects and vermin. For 
large timbers, like the sills of buildings, etc., bore holes, half or two-thirds 
through the timber, three or four feet apart, fill them with petroleum oil, 
within three-fourths of an inch of the top, and tightly plug them up. 
The petroleum will soon penetrate every pore; but every few days the 
holes should be refilled with the oil, until the wood is thoroughly sat- 
urated. We have made numerous experiments, combining the petroleum 
oil with other oils, varnishes and pigments, in hopes of discovering an 
improved paint, but as a wood-preservative we have found the pure, 
heavy petroleum oil, used without the addition of any other substance, 
far preferable. As its price is only about thirty cents per gallon, it is 
probably the cheapest and most effectual wood-preservative known. 

[Note. — During the process of saturating the wood with the petro- 
leum oil, or applying it, and for a few hours afterwards, no fires, candles, 
or lamps should be brought near it, as the volatile portions of the oil 
(gasoline, benzine and naphtha) are highly inflammable ; but they soon 
evaporate, leaving a preservative substance that will not readily ignite, 
composed of bitumen, paraffin wax, etc., and which are not soluble in 
water, or susceptible of decay. W r ood thus prepared must remain in a 
state of preservation for ages ] 

TO PLATE IRON OR STEEL WITH COPPKR. 

Sulphate of Copper 8 ounces. 

Soft Water, hot 1 quart. 

Stir, until the copper is dissolved. 

Have the articles to be plated perfectly clean and free from grease, 

14 



211 Fresh Fxsgs and Yellow Butter. 

and polished bright. Then immerse them for a moment in diluted 
muriatic acid, (consisting of equal parts of muriatic acid and water.) 
Rinse the articles in clean water, and instantly dip them into the hot 
solution of copper. They will be immediately coated with copper. 

TO PLATE IRON WITH TIN. 

Prepare the sheets of iron as for galvanizing with zinc, (see page 
211), using melted tin for the plating. But to make a perfect coating of 
tin, the sheets should be dipped in melted tallow just before their immer- 
sion in the bath of melted tin. 

COLOR RESTORATIVE, 

For instantly renewing the color to faded and worn coats, vests, pants 
and wearing apparel of black, brown, blue, and other dark-colored goods, 
but not for white fabrics, as the dye only chemically combines with the 
color already in the cloth, and reproduces the original color. 

Extract of Logwood, pulverized G ounces. 

Sulphate of Copper I ounce. 

AVhite Sugar 3 ounces. 

Alcohol 1 quart. 

Soft Water 1 pint. 

Mix, and heat in a water-bath for two hours. Let it stand one clay, 
agitating occasionally. 

Directions for Use. — Add two ounces to a quart of hot water, and 
apply the hot solution to the garments with a clean brush, until the cloth 
is wet. Lastly, rub with the nap, to produce lustre. Dry the garments, 
and they will have the appearance of new goods. 

A superior and more durable color may be produced by first cleaning 
the cloth with the cloth renovator; then dry for at least 24 hours before 
applying the color restorative. 

INDIA RUBBER PURE. 

To preserve the gum in a liquid form, as it comes from the tree, the 
liquor is filtered; then mixed with about one-eighteenth of its weight of 
strong ammonia. On being poured out and exposed to a temperature 
of from 70° to 100° Fahr., the ammonia, which preserves it from the 
action of atmospheric oxygen, evaporates, leaving the gum in the shape 
of the vessel which contains it. 

INDIA RUBBER SOLUTION. 

India Rubber (pure gum), cut into thin slices l\ ounces. 

Naphtha 1 pint. 

Keep in a tightly corked bottle, and in a warm room, for two or three 
days, shaking occasionally, until the rubber dissolves. 

The color of this solution is dark, but by leaving it undisturbed for 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 215 

a few weeks it will become nearly transparent, when the clear portion 
may be carefully poured off, the sediment remaining behind. 

Rubber shoes, etc., will not dissolve in naphtha, as they contain 
sulphur, which forms an insoluble compound with the gum. Use only 
the pure india rubber, which is kept for sale at the principal rubber- 
stores, and is sold for about $2.00 per pound. 

HARD INDIA RUBBER. 

India Rubber (pure gum) 7 pounds. 

Sulphur, in powder 1 pound. 

Heat to a temperature of about 800° Fahr. Stir well together, and 
press into moulds of the required pattern. It will then be " vulcanized," 
and retain its form. 

LIQUID POLISH BLACKING. 

Ivory-Black, fine 1 pound. 

Olive Oil 4 ounces. 

Mix, and grind well together in a porcelain or wedgewood mortar. 
Then add 

Strong Vinegar 2 J quarts. 

White Sugar 10 ounces. 

Grind well together. Lastly, add 

Sulphuric Acid, by weight 4 ounces. 

Muriatic Acid, by weight 4 ounces. 

Stir thoroughly together, and it is ready for use. 
This blacking should be applied to leather with a soft brush or 
sponge, and requires no rubbing to produce a polish. 

PASTE (POLISH) BLACKING. 

Ivory-Black 1 pound. 

Molasses 12 ounces. 

Sulphuric Acid 1 ounce. 

Olive Oil 2 ounces. 

First mix the ivory-black and molasses thoroughly. Then add the 
oil; then gradually the acid, and, afterwards, as much water as may be 
necessary to bring the mass to a proper consistence. Put into boxes for 
use. Moisten the blacking with water, and apply to the leather with a 
brush, rubbing thoroughly for a few moments, to produce a polish. 

TOOTH POWDER. 

Prepared Chalk, pulverized 2 ounces. 

Orris Root, pulverized J ounce. 

Mix well together. 

This makes an excellent tooth powder. 

Charcoal and other hard substances should never be used for cleans- 
ing the teeth. 



216 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

toilet powder. 

Wheat. Starch, pure ] pound. 

Orris Root, pulverized 3 ounces. 

Oil of Bergamo t 30 drops. 

Oil of Neroli 10 drops. 

Mix thoroughly. 

If a flesh-colored powder is required, a few grains of carmine, pul- 
verized, may be added to give the required tint. 

Bismuth and other poisonous substances should not be used for 
cosmetics. 

FRANGIPANNI SACHET PERFUME FOR CLOTHING. 

Orris Root, powdered 8 ounces. 

Rose Leaves, powdered 6 ounces. 

Sandal-wood, powdered 2 ounces. 

Musk 30 grains. 

Tonqua Beans, powdered 2J ounces. 

Essence of Roses 2 drachm. 

Mix well together. 

AVhen used for perfuming clothing, in trunks, closets, wardrobes, 
etc., half an ounce or more may be sewed up in sachets made of two 
thicknesses of silk, and placed among the garments. 

TO CLEAN CLOTHES. 

Take equal parts of alcohol and aqua ammonia. Mix them in a bot- 
tle, and keep tightly corked. Moisten a sponge with this mixture, and 
vigorously rub the garment to be cleansed. It will remove grease, etc., 
and is instantaneous in its action. When clothing is stained with acids it 
restores them to their original color. 

PERFUMED GLYCERIN SOAP. 

Transparent Soap, sliced 12 ounces. 

Soft Water 8 ounces. 

Alcohol 8 ounces. 

Heat in a closely covered vessel, or tightly corked bottle, in a water- 
bath until the soap is dissolved; then remove the cover or cork, and con- 
tinue to heat for half an hour longer, in order to evaporate a portion of 
the alcohol. 

Into another bottle put 

Glycerin 6 ounces. 

Essence of Sassafras 1 ounce. 

Shake well together, add to the solution of soap, and stir until 
thoroughly combined. Then press into moulds of any pattern preferred. 

This is an excellent soap for chapped hands, rough skin, etc. 

PRESERVATION OF POTATOES. 

Liquor Ammonia, concentrated 3 ounces. 

Cold Water 1 gallon. 



j^RESH ^GGS AND JeLLOW BUTTER 217 

Immerse the potatoes in the ammoniated water for one week ; then 
remove and allow them to dry. The effect of the ammonia suspends or 
destroys the germinating principle in the vegetables, without proving 
detrimental to the nutritious properties of the potato. Potatoes cannot 
sprout after undergoing this process, and if kept in a dry place will 
remain in a good state of preservation for months. 

If the common aqua ammonia is used, the quantity, as an equivalent 
for the concentrated, should be twelve ounces to the gallon of water. 

The vessel containing the ammoniated water in which potatoes are 
immersed must be kept tightly closed, to prevent the escape of the ammonia. 

POISONOUS TOTATOES. 

Sprouts of the potato contain an alkaloid (solanine), which is very 
poisonous if takeu into the system. This also exists in the potato when 
it is accidentally exposed to light and air by the removal of the earth 
during the period of cultivation, which may be known by the potato hav- 
ing a bluish-green tint ou one side. Such a potato should never be eaten, 
nor fed to stock. 



DYEING WITH ANILINE COLORS. 

Fabrics must first be washed in warm soap-suds, or solutions of sal- 
soda or silicate of soda, and then thoroughly rinsed. 

For the dye-bath use a clean, enameled kettle, or an earthenware 
pot, which must be free from fat, and must not be used for any other 
purpose. 

Old fabrics, which have once been dyed, may be freed from color by 
previously boiling them in strong soap-suds from a half to one hour. 

Aniline colors are prepared from coal-tar by elaborate chemical 
processes. 

VIOLET ANILINE PURPLE FOR WOOL. 

{For 25 lbs. of Goods.) 

Aniline Purple 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 gallon. 

Mix in a stone jar, or tin pail, having a tight-fitting cover, through 
which a stick passes for the purpose of stirring. Place the jar or pail in 
a kettle of boiling water, constantly stirring, and allow the solution to 
boil for ten minutes. 

After cooling, filter through paper, muslin, or flannel, but if it stands 
over night it will have to be filtered again, to prevent the color from 
crocking, or rubbing off. 



218 Fresh Eggs and Yellow jButter. 

Directions for Use — Have ready sufficient boiling water to cover the 
goods, adding to it half a pound of oxalic acid and one-third of the ani- 
line solution. After boiling for one minute, and stirring well, put in the 
goods, and continue to boil gently for ten or fifteen minutes, stirring them 
often. Then take them out, and add to the dye half a pound of sulphuric 
acid and the rest of the aniline solution. Replace the goods in the dye, 
keeping it at the boiling point, and stirring for half an hour. Wash the 
goods in cold water, and wring them. The more sulphuric acid used, the 
more blue will be the shade. Should the dye become too blue, pour in 
cold water until the temperature reaches 95° Falir., when a little fuchsine 
may be added, making the shade of a more reddish cast. 

VIOLET ANILINE PURPLE TOR COTTON. 

{For 25 lbs. of Goods.) 

Perchloride of Tin, in crystals 5 ounces. 

Hot Water , 1J gallons. 

Dissolve the tin in the water. Then immerse the goods for fifteen 
minutes in this solution, frequently turning and airing them. Remove 
the goods, and add to the solution 
Aniline Violet 3 ounces. 

Stir well until dissolved. 

Immerse the goods again in the dye, stirring and airing them occa- 
sionally, for fifteen minutes. To render the color more permanent, mix 

Alum 4 ounces. 

"Water, hot 1 gallon. 

And in this solution wash the clothes, wringing and drying them. 

ANILINE RED (FUCHSINE) ON WOOL. 

(For 25 lbs. of Goods.) 

Aniline Red (fuchsine crystals) 1J ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 8 ounces. 

Dissolve in a tin pail, over a water-bath, as directed for the 
violet dye. 

Directions for Use. — Heat water to about 170° Fahr., sufficient to 
cover the goods, and if twenty-five pounds of goods are to be dyed at one 
time, add all of the aniline solution to the water, and stir for a few 
moments. Into this dye immerse the goods, stirring them well to prevent 
streaks. Allow them to remain for thirty minutes. Then remove, and 
they will be completely dyed. Pass them through an ordinary clothes- 
wringer. On a large scale this may be done in a centrifugal machine. 
The same water may be used for ten or twelve hours, heating whenever 
required, and adding more of the aniline solution ; but it must not be 
used after twelve or fifteen hours. 

By adding a little ammonia to the dye, a brighter red is produced. 

Silk is treated in the same manner, but in cold water, to which half 



^RESH jiGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER. 219 

an ounce of tartaric acid has been added, and in which the silk has been 
steeped for half an hour before adding any color. 

ANILINE RED (FUCHSINE) ON COTTON. 

{For 25 lbs. of Goods.) 

Sumach Bark 2 pounds. 

Hot Water 4 gallons. 

Simmer together for five or six hours. Strain the decoction, and 
while it is heated to about 170° Fahr., immerse the goods, allowing them 
to remain in the dye for two and a half hours, stirring and airing them 
frequently. Pass them through a clothes-wringer, and then immerse 
for 15 or 20 minutes in the red aniline (fuchsine) bath, prepared as for 
dyeing wool. 

Hoffman's dahlia, violet, red, and bluish parme shades. 

Aniline 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 percent 1 quart. 

Use in the same manner as the aniline r-ed. 

aniline blue on wool. 
{For 25 lbs. of Goods.) 

Soft Water, hot , 4 gallons. 

Sulphuric Acid \ pound. 

Boil for ten minutes. Have ready 
Aniline Blue 4 ounces. 

Dissolved in 
Alcohol 1 quart. 

Gradually add the aniline solution, stirring constantly. 

Submerse the goods, and continue to boil until they have absorbed 
the color from the water. 

A lighter shade will be imparted to the goods by using only one-half 
or two-thirds of the quantity of the aniline ; or a darker shade may 
be obtained by adding more aniline to the water as often as its color is 
absorbed by the goods. 

Silk is steeped first for an hour in luke-warm water, made acid in the 
same manner, and the color must be added in from four to five small por- 
tions, raising the temperature gradually to boiling heat, and continuing 
it at that point for from five to ten minutes, to produce a good color. 
The old bath is then replaced by fresh water, which is acidulated with 
sulphuric acid, and in which the silk is boiled for ten minutes ; after 
which it is thoroughly washed in water, and then in soap-suds; after- 
wards, again, in water; then once more drawn through acidulated water; 
and, lastly, through water alone. 

Violets and purples are produced on wool in the same manner as the 



220 -Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 

blue: on silk the same method is used likewise, but the water must only 
be heated short, of boiling. 

ANILINE BLUE VIOLET ON COTTON. 

(For 25 lbs. of Goods.) 

Hot Water 4 gallons. 

Nitrate of Iron 1 pound. 

CMiloride of Tin, in crystals 4 ounces. 

Mix, and immerse the goods, allowing them to remain in the solution 
a few minutes. 

Have ready a solution made as follows : 

Prussiate of Potash 10 ounces. 

Sulphuric Acid (by weight) 8 ounces. 

Mix. Into this remove the goods from the solution of iron and tin, 
turning them over a few times. 

They are then to be taken out and placed in a tub of tepid water. 
Turn them several times in this water, and then take them out. To the 
water add the following mixture : 

Olive Oil «. 1 pound. 

Sulphuric Acid (by weight) 2 ounces. 

Alcohol 2J ounces. 

Hot. Water 1 pint. 

Agitate well together, and add to the tepid bath. Immerse the goods 
in this, turning them several times. Then take them out, and put theni 
into a. tepid solution of reddish violet and half a pound of alum added 
to sufficient water to cover the goods. 

ANILINE BLUE ON COTTON. 

For pure blue, prepare the goods as for fuchsine, and dye like violets. 
For a greenish and dark-blue, dye in a bath of prussiate of potassa and 
sulphuric acid, as mentioned in the formula for blue violet on cotton. 

For very light, shades, place the goods subsequently into a new tepid 
bath containing five ounces of perchloride of tin for everj' twenty-five 
pounds of goods. 

SCARLET ANILINE ON WOOL. 

(For 25 lbs. of Goods.) 

Soft Water, hot 3 gallons. 

Sulphate of Zinc 8 pounds. 

When dissolved, submerse the goods in this bath, and boil for ten 
minutes. Remove them, and add 
Scarlet. Aniline 10 ounces. 

Stir until dissolved. Strain and submerse the goods for fifteen or 
twenty minutes, by which time they will lie of a brown color. Then add 
Muriate of Ammonia 3 ounces. 

Continue to boil for thirty or forty minutes. 

By the addition of more ammonia a brighter shade may be produced. 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Sutter. 221 

ANILINE GREEN on WOOL. 

(For 25 lbs. of Goods.) 

Iodine Aniline Green 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent \ gallon. 

Dissolve, in a water-bath, as before directed. 

Prepare a bath of 
Water 3 gallons. 

In which must be dissolved 

Acetic Acid 3 ounces. 

Acetate of Soda 3 ounces. 

Add the solution of aniline green, and stir well together. Heat the 
bath to 100° Fahrenheit. Submerse and air the goods, in the usual man- 
ner, until an even shade is obtained. Then add 
Castile Soap 1 ounce. 

Dissolved in 
Hot Water 1 quart. 

And the brilliancy of the color will be increased. 

ANILINE GREEN SOLUBLE IN WATER. 

(For 25 lbs. of Goods.) 
Aniline Green 4 ounces. 

Made into a paste with a little cold water. Then add 

Boiling Water 3 gallons. 

Sulphuric Acid J pound. 

This dye will serve for both silk and wool. To produce a darker 
shade of green, the goods should be first dyed with light-blue. 

IODINE ANILINE GREEN FOR COTTON. 

The cotton has to be taken through a bath of boiling water; next, 
through one of castile soap, and, next, dyed in a luke-warm bath contain- 
ing tannin, the color being shaded off with picric acid or fustic. 

ANILINE YELLOW. 

Dissolve aniline yellow in boiling water. For dyeing silk, add to the 
bath acetic or sulphuric acid in small quantity, and dye at 170° Fahr. 

For wool, dye the same way, but add oxalic or sulphuric acid. If 
aniline yellow is shaded off with fuchsine, every shade from orange to 
scarlet may be obtained. 

PICRIC ACID. 

'This acid yields a canary color, different from the golden yellow of 
the aniline yellow, which, by the way, is not made from aniline, but from 
naphthaline. For green and drab colors on wool and silk, picric acid is 
of the greatest value, as it dyes an even shade, not obtainable with other 
dyes, affords facilities for nice shading off, and makes a brilliant color. 



222 Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter 

For green, take the goods through a bath soured with sulphuric acid 
and alum, to which, subsequently, picric acid and indigo extract are 
added. 

For drab colors on wool, the bath is to be soured wilh glauber salts 
and tartaric acid, the alum omitted, the picric acid being added, together 
with the indigo, orchil, or cudbear. 

For family dyes, those mordants should always be added in the right 
proportion to the solution of the aniline, to render its solution simple. 
Perfection in this manner can at best be only approached, never realized. 

[For many valuable suggestions in regard to dyeing with aniline 
colors, we are indebted to " The Arts," published by J. M. Hirsh & Co., 
Chicago, and the "Druggists' Circular and Chemical Gazette," pub- 
lished in New York by L. V. Newton, M. D.] 

general suggestions. 

Instead of adding the whole amount of aniline dye to the bath at 
once, divide the prescribed quantity of aniline color into three parts. 
Begin the dyeing with one part, and do not heat the bath above 100° Fahr. 

All the color having been taken up by the goods, add another part, 
allowing the heat to rise to the boiling point of water (212° Fahr.) ; and 
thus continue to add the color from time to time. 

Heat and acids produce blue shades with all aniline colors. To 
obtain the redder shades of violet and blue, use less acid, and lessen the 
time of boiling. 



OTHER PROCESSES FOR DYEING. 

TO DYE COMPOUND COLORS. 

Compound colors are produced by mixing together two simple ones; 
or, which is the same thing, by dyeing cloth first with a simple color, and 
then with another. These colors vary to infinity, according to the pro- 
portions of the ingredients employed. 

From blue, red and yellow, red olives and greenish grays are made. 

From blue, red and brown, olives are made, from the lightest to the 
darkest shades; and by giving a greater shade of red, the slated and 
lavender grays are made. 

From blue, red and black, grays of all shades are made, such as sage, 
pigeon, slate and lead grays. 

From yellow, blue and brown, are made green olives of all shades. 

From brown, blue and black, are produced brown olives and their 
shades. 

BLACK DYE FOR WOOLEN GOODS. 

Blue Vitriol 1 pound. 

Hot Soft Water, in a large iron kettle 3 gallons. 



J^RESH pGGS AND YELLOW 6QTTER. 223 

When the vitriol is dissolved, fifteen pounds of cloth may be dipped 
in the solution, taken out, and aired for a few minutes. Repeat this pro- 
cess for thirty minutes. 

In another kettle place 

Extract of Logwood \ pound. 

Hot Soft Water 3 gallons. 

Boil until dissolved. Keep it hot, and immerse the cloth for one 
hour, airing it four or five times. Then wash in strong soap-suds, 
and dry. 

BLACK DYE FOR COTTON GOODS. 

Sumach Bark 2 pounds. 

Hot Soft Water 3 gallons. 

Simmer two or three hours. . 

This is sufficient for fifteen pounds of cloth. 

Let the goods remain in the dye for ten hours, keeping it hot, and 
airing the cloth occasionally. 

Then dip the cloth in lime-water for twenty minutes, afterwards 
allowing it to air and drain for half an hour. 

Add to the sumach decoction 
Sulphate of Iron 1 pound. 

When dissolved, immerse the cloth again for one hour. Then remove, 
and allow it to drain for thirty minutes. 

In another kettle have ready prepared the following : 

Extract of Logwood J pound. 

Hot Soft Water 3 gallons. 

As soon as dissolved, immerse the cloth in this hot liquor for two 
hours, airing occasionally. 

Then add to this liquor 
Bichromate of Potassa 5 ounces. 

Again immerse the cloth for one and a half hours, airing at intervals. 

Wash in cold water, and dry in the shade. 

This process imparts a permanent black. 

TO DYE STRAW AND CHIP HATS AND BONNETS BLACK, 

Extract of Logwood \ ounce. 

Hot Water 1 gallon. 

Sulphate of Iron I ounce. 

Simmer until all are dissolved. 

Boil the articles to be dyed in this liquid for a few minutes, every 
half-hour, until the desired color is obtained. Then rub them, inside and 
out, with a sponge moistened in olive oil, and proceed to block them. 

TO VARNISH STRAW AND CHIP HATS BLACK. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent i pint. 

Best Black Sealing Wax 2 ounces. 



224 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

Put them in a bottle together and cork it tightly, keeping it in a 
warm place. Shake occasionally, until the wax is all dissolved. Apply 
while warm, with a soft brush, in the sun or in a warm room. 

This preparation stiffens old straw hats, bonnets, baskets, etc., im- 
parts a beautiful gloss, and rendeip them water-proof. 



AMATTO AND ITS USES. 

Annatto is a coloring substance derived from the red pulp or cover- 
ing surrounding the fruit or seed of the Bixa Orellana, a tree indigenous 
to the West Indies and other hot climates. The fruit, (which resembles 
an orange), is used by the residents as a substitute for the tomato. The 
seeds not only impart a brilliant color, but a spicy flavor to a great, 
variety of native dishes. 

Annatto is sometimes called Arnotta and Rocou. It is frequently 
adulterated with red ochre, chalk, sulphate of lime, turmeric, etc. 

It is used for coloring butter, cheese, soaps, pomades, soups, sauces, 
etc., and also for dyeing cloth. 

Pure annatto is not in the least unwholesome. For its employment 
in coloring butter and cheese, reference is made to the processes set forth 
in the foregoing pages. 

Soda and potash are usually recommended as the best solvents for 
extracting its coloring qualities, but they do not produce a bright or 
satisfactory color. 

When annatto is used for dyeing, its coloring properties are best 
extracted by the following method : 

Hot Water 1 gallon. 

Liquid Silicate of Soda, 30° Baume 2 ounces. 

Pure Extract of Annatto 2 ounces. 

Simmer in a water-bath for two hours, frequently stirring until the 
annatto is dissolved. 

When used for coloring butter, cheese, etc., its color is besi extracted 
by alcohol. (See pages 83 to 88.) 



J^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BUTTER 225 



PARAFFIN WAX. 

{Tar-Oil — Stearin.) 
Paraffin Wax is a tasteless, inodorous, white solid, insoluble in water, 
but dissolves readily in ether and oils. It is obtained from both coal-tar 
and petroleum, and melts at 120° Fahr. The most energetic chemical 
re-agents, as strong acids, alkalies, chlorine, etc., fail to exert any action 
on this substance. In consequence of this want of affinity, it derives its 
name from two Latin words, parum and affinis. It is used in the manu- 
facture of candles and chewing-gum, and we are using it extensively in 
deoxygenating and insulating eggs, and for preparing kerosene oil and 
other barrels, vats, butter-firkins, etc., as set forth in previous pages. 
In these processes it is unequaled. 



GLYCERIN. 



{The Sweet Principle of Oil.) 

Glycerin is obtained from either oil, tallow or lard. It was discov- 
ered by Scheele, who called it " the sweet principle of oils and fats." 

When perfectly pure, glycerin is colorless and odorless, having a 
sweet taste and sirupy consistence. It combines readily with water, 
alcohol or oil, dissolves many gums and resinous substances, does not 
crystallize nor ferment, like sugar, will not evaporate, and is destroyed 
by boiling. 

Properties and Uses. — Glycerin is antiseptic and demulcent. Applied 
in many diseases of the skin as a lotion or poultice, it acts as an emol- 
lient and soothing application, absorbing moisture from the air, and pre- 
venting the parts to which it is applied from becoming too dry. It is 
vised extensively, in combination with rosewater, for chapped hands, lips, 
etc. 

Pills and extracts, incorporated with a small portion of glycerin, are 
preserved soft and free from mouldiness. It has also been highly recom- 
mended as a cure for deafness, by putting a few drops into the ear. 

Pure glycerin does not produce any smarting or irritating effects 
when applied to tender and broken skin. When these effects are pro- 
duced it is evident that the glycerin is impure and should not be used. 

For consumptive and dyspeptic patients glycerin has a beneficial 



226 -Fresh F,ggs and Yellow Butter. 

effect, in doses of a teaspoonful stirred into a wineglass-ful of water, two 
or three times a day. In this respect it is far preferable to cod-liver oil. 

For its use for coloring butter, and giving it a lustrous appearance, 
see page 90. 

Pure glycerin is perfectly wholesome. 

CARBONIC ACID GAS. 

Carbonic acid gas is obtained by the action of diluted sulphuric 
acid upon powdered marble, and by means of a forcing pump is thrown 
into a suitable receiver nearly filled with water, the bulk of the water 
being equal to only one-fifth of the quantity of carbonic acid gas in the 
receiver. Under common atmospheric pressure, water takes up a volume 
of carbonic acid gas equal to its own, and if the pressure be doubled the 
quantity of gas absorbed will also be doubled, and in like proportion with 
every increase of pressure. 

Consequently, to saturate the water with five times its volume of 
carbonic acid gas, it must be subjected to a pressure of five atmospheres. 

Carbonic acid water is a sparkling liquid, having a pleasant, pun- 
gent and slightly acidulous taste. It is familiarly known as " soda- 
water,'' a term derived from custom, as, originally, it contained a small 
portion of the carbonate of soda, which, however, is now wholly omitted 
in its manufacture. As a summer beverage, in connection with flavored 
sirups, it is drawn from fountains at many drug-stores, ice-cream saloons, 
etc. Most of the "mineral waters" are also charged with this gas. 

The vessels which contain it should be kept in a cold place, and air- 
tight, or the gas will evaporate and the water lose its briskness; hence 
the necessity of drinking soda-water, when drawn, before the gas escapes. 

Its specific gravity is 1.527 — that of atmospheric air being 1.000 — 
and it is so much (or one-third) heavier than common air that it may be 
poured from one vessel into another. 

The sparkling and effervescing properties of many kinds of wine, 
beer, cider, etc., are owing to the presence of carbonic acid gas. 

The acid gas with which soda-water is impregnated is obtained, as 
before stated, from the combination of marble dust and diluted sulphuric 
acid, because these are the cheapest materials for the purpose. Chalk 
may also be used, but is objectionable on account of its imparting an 
unpleasant odor to the carbonic acid. 

The following is the ordinary formula for preparing it: 

Cold Water 13 ounces. 

Sulphuric Acid, commercial 1 ounce. 

Gradually add the acid to the water, in a porcelain or glass vessel, 
constantly stirring. 

This constitutes what is known as diluted sulphuric acid. Add to this 
Marble Dust 8 ounces. 



Fresh ^ggs and Yellow Butter. 227 

Which must be stirred occasionally, during which time the gas is 
generated by the action of the acid upon the marble, and passes into 
the receiver. 

LIQUID SILICATE OF SODA. 

(Liquid Silex.) 

It is also known as "water-glass," "soluble glass," etc. 

Quartz, (silicic acid), pure and finely pulverized 900 pounds. 

Carbonate of Soda, dry and finely pulverized 4G0 pounds. 

These are first well mixed, and afterwards exposed to a strong heat, 
in a "glass-melting pot," for six or seven hours, or until the whole mass 
is uniformly fused, the heat being about the same as that required to melt 
glass. After it has melted, it is removed from the fire and allowed to 
cool. It is then broken into small pieces, and is known in commerce as 
"dry silicate of soda," or "silicate of soda crystals." 

To convert the crystals into liquid silicate of soda, to each one hun- 
dred pounds of crystals add twenty-five gallons of boiling water, the 
boiling point being maintained for four or five hours, with frequent stirring, 
until the crystals are dissolved. Hot water is occasionally added, as 
evaporation proceeds, to keep up the original quantity. AVhen the crys- 
tals have dissolved, the solution should be strained, while hot, and put into 
vessels to settle. After standing two or three days, it is drawn off, its 
density being that of thick sirup, or 36° Baume. 

It should be kept in bottles or casks, tightly stopped, as, if allowed 
to evaporate, it becomes thick and resembles jelly. 

When used, this preparation is generally reduced with either cold, 
warm or hot water, and is extensively employed in various manufactures 
and the arts. 

For its uses, see the processes for making artificial stone, fire-proof 
paint, the No. 2 process for coating barrels and vats, making soap, wash- 
ing compound, the preservation of eggs, cement for labeling tin boxes, 
etc. 

SILICATE OF POTASH. 

This is used for the same purposes as the silicate of soda, and is pre- 
pared in a similar manner, substituting potash for the soda. 

Silicate of soda and silicate of potash, when combined, are known as 
the "double silicate of potash and soda," and are used for the same pur- 
poses ; but after a series of experiments with them, the silicate of soda 
has our preference. 

[Note. — Some manufacturers of silicate of soda use the dry sulphate 
of soda, instead of the carbonate, in order to produce a cheaper article, 
but we cannot commend its use, although it is sold in the market for the 
genuine article. When used for the preservation of eggs, it will not 
answer the purpose. Hence it is essential that only the true silicate of 
soda should be used in the various processes set forth in this work. For 
the price of the true silicate of soda, see the last page.] 



228 Fresh F,ggs and Yellow Butter. 

CARBOLIC ACID. 

ITS PROPERTIES AND USES. 

Carbolic Acid is one of the products of the distillation of coal-tar 
oS. It congeals in the form of long, colorless, prismatic crystals, which 
melt, at 95° Fahr., to an oily liquid, boiling at 356° Fahr., and in many 
particulars resembling creosote. It is deliquescent, attracts moisture 
from the atmosphere, quickly becomes liquid, and continues so at mod- 
erate temperatures. It is known by the names of "carbolic acid," 
" phenic acid,'' "phenol," "phenic alcohol," and "hydrate of pheoyle." 
It was discovered by Runge, in 1834, who gave it the name by which we 
designate it. It possesses remarkable powers as an antiseptic, and most 
of the disinfecting powders now in use are composed of crude carbolic 
acid and plaster of paris. It prevents putrefaction, has the power to 
arrest fermentation in organic matter, and also prevents its development. 
In sloughing wounds, a solution composed of fifteen grains of the acid, 
dissolved in one ounce of water, produces a most remarkable healing- 
effect. It destroys all fetor, facilitating the separation of the slough, and 
causes the parts beneath to assume a healthier appearance. It has also 
the eft'ect of promoting the growth of healthy granulation, and of hasten- 
ing the healing process of wounds. It has been used successfully in the 
various forms of skin diseases, etc. 

lis modus operandi is supposed by some to be involved in mystery; 
but it is now believed, by many eminent physicians, that animal parasites 
are the chief cause of diseases. Some of these parasites live on the sur- 
face of the human body, (epizoa), and others in the interior (entozoa). 

Experiments have proved that carbolic acid, even in a diluted form, 
will destroy all the lower forms of life, whether animal or vegetable. 
The air we breathe contains extremely active powers of destruction, as it 
holds, floating in it, myriads of the minutest germs of plants and animals, 
and these mysterious atoms, alighting upon the bodies of living beings, 
enter the blood, lungs and tissues, there develop and multiply exceedingly, 
and become the sources of disease, infection and death. 

It was held by the British Pharmacy Conference, of 1869, that 
"these putrifying (septic) germs are great causes of putrefactive /«//'< nt- 
ii I inn ; that fermentation is intimately connected Math inflammation; that 
most diseases result from inflammation; that carbolic acid (antiseptic) 
will kill all septic germs, and thus remove many causes of disease; that 
glycerin is a very powerful healing agent ; that carbolic acid is freely 
soluble in glycerin, and that their united application has resulted in the 
speedy cure of some of the most dangerous diseases. It follows, there- 



Fresh F.ggs and Yellow Butter. 229 

fore, that these new therapeutic agents demand very special attention." 
We suggest, as a rule for general external application, .the following: 

Carbolic Acid, crystallized 1 drachm. 

Glycerin, pure 1 ounce. 

Oil of Wintergreen 10 drops. 

The oil of wintergreen is added to disguise the odor of the carbolic 
acid. 

Mix, and shake well together. 

This may be termed carbolale of glycerin, but of this strength it is to 
be used only upon sores and wounds which indicate a fungus growth. 

When used for many other purposes it must be diluted with water. 

We suggest the following formulas for the general use of carbolic 
acid, which we have prescribed and found efficacious the past two years : 

As a gargle for diphtheria, sore throat, etc., add two gi-ains of car- 
bolic acid to one ounce of water. 

As a lotion, sixteen grains to an ounce of water. 

As an ointment, twenty grains combined with half an ounce each of 
lard and glycerin. 

As a general application for healing wounds, burns, sores, cuts, boils, 
felons, bruises, frost-bites, etc., add four ounces of water to one ounce of 
the carbolate of glycerin. 

Shake well together; bathe the affected parts several times a day, 
or apply to them a cloth saturated with the mixture. 

For rheumatism and neuralgia, take 

Carbolic Acid, crystals 30 grains. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 ounce. 

Shake well together, and apply several times a day. 

For ring-worm, salt-rheum, itch, etc.: 

Carbolate of Glycerin 1 ounce. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 ounce. 

Shake well together, and apply several times per day. 

For cancer and scrofulous sores — first application, to remove the fun- 
gus flesh: 

Carbolic Acid, crystals 1 drachm. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 2 drachms. 

Shake well together, and apply once a day with a camels'-hair pencil. 
The parts will immediately turn white. 

Within thirty minutes after, and two or three times a day, make an 
application of "Glycerin and Egg-Yelk Dressing." (See formula for 
preparing it on page 233.) After the fungus flesh is removed, apply car- 
bolate of glycerin two or three times per day. 

For asthma, bronchitis and catarrh, take six drops of the carbolate 
of glycerin in a wineglass-ful of water three or four times a day, and 
oftener in urgent cases. 

15 



230 Fresh Eggs and Jellow Butter 

carbolic inhalation. 
For inhalation in pulmonary consumption, bronchitis, catarrh, and 
asthma: 

Carbolic Acid, crystals 2 drachms. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent., deodorized 6 drachms. 

Shake well together, and keep the bottle tightly corked when not in 
use. Let the patient inhale, through the nose, the vapor that arises from 
the bottle when uncorked, for about one minute. This inhalation may be 
repeated several times a day. 

For ague and fever: 
Carbolate of Glycerin 10 drops. 

Take three times a day, before meals, in a wineglass-ful of cold 
water. The patient should also inhale the carbolic vapor (described 
above) several times a day, 

For tooth-ache: With equal parts of carbolic acid, glycerin and 
alcohol saturate lint, and insert it into the cavity of the tooth. The nerve 
of the tooth will very soon be destroyed, and the pain cease. 

For diarrhoea, dysentery, etc.: Take four drops of the carbolate of 
glycerin in half a wineglass-ful of water every hour or two, until relief is 
obtained. 

For poisonous bites of insects, snakes, etc.: With equal parts of car- 
bolic acid (in crystals) and alcohol, cauterize the wound freely, and when 
the general system is affected by the bite, let the patient take ten drops 
of the carbolate of glycerin in half a wineglass-ful of water every fifteen 
minutes until relief is obtained. We also suggest this treatment for 
hydrophobia. 

CARBOLIC ACID FOR DYSPEPSIA. 

In dyspeptic cases, of the ferment ive class, accompanied by the 
copious evolution of gas from the stomach, and the discharge of fetid 
evacuations from the bowels, it is usually attended with satisfactory 
results. Dose — from ten to fifteen drops of the carbolate of glycerin 
in half a wineglass-ful of water, three or four times a day. It arrests 
fermentation, and stops the evolution of gas. 

TRICHlNiE SPIRALIS. 

This malady arises from eating diseased pork, and often proves fatal. 
As a remedy, give the patient fifteen drops of carbolate of glycerin in a 
wineglass-ful of water, repeating the dose every two hours. Alternate 
it every two hours with twenty drops of liquor sodie bisulphis, also 
administered in a wineglass-ful of water. In urgent cases repeat these 
agents every hour, and continue until relief is obtained. 

Carbolic acid and sulphurous acid will effectually destroy the animal- 
culie and parasitic family. These anti-parasitic agents may be safely 



j^RESH jiGGS AND YELLOW BUTTER 231 

administered in a diluted form, as above described, and no injurious results 
can possibly occur to the most delicate constitution. 

The trichinee may be found throughout the system, and in order to 
reach them with carbolic acid we advise its admixture with glycerin, 
which is the most efficacious vehicle for its dissemination through every 
part of the body, as glycerin will rapidly penetrate both flesh and bone, 
and carry with it such chemical agents as it holds in combination. 

The sodsebisulphis, in addition to destroying parasitic life, reduces the 
inflammation, and allays the pain caused by the ravages of the trichinee. 

CARBOLIC ACID AS A REMEDY FOR MOSQUITOES AND FLIES. 

Saturate pieces of cloth with crude carbolic acid and hang them 
about the room, and the mosquitoes and flies will leave. The process of 
wetting the cloths may be repeated three or four times a day. 

NOT AN ACID. 

Carbolic acid should not be called an acid, as when pure it does not 
redden litmus paper. 

HOW TO DISSOLVE CARBOLIC ACID CRYSTALS. 

One ounce of carbolic acid crystals is soluble in one pint of distilled 
water, by adding a few grains at a time, and agitating the water at every 
addition of the acid. 

SPORES THE CAUSE OF DISEASE. 

Recent investigations in science have proved that the cause of disease 
is due to microscopic spores floating in the atmosphere, which, by their 
subsequent development and propagation, are held to be the true source 
of contagion. 

It has also been proved that the microscopic spores can be destroyed 
by the presence, and even the vapor, of carbolic acid, which at once 
arrests the progress of disease, thereby preventing further contagion. 

Hence the use of carbolic acid as a disinfecting and deodorizing agent 
is commended during the prevalence of cholera, typhoid fever, and other 
contagious diseases. 

PREVENTIVE OF CHOLERA. 

The Moniteur Scientifique, of Paris, says that during a severe epidemic 
of Asiatic cholera, which caused the death of a large number of people, 
carbolic acid, mixed with water, was daily sprinkled in the rooms and 
passages of the houses, and the further spread of the disease was imme- 
diately arrested. 

CARBOLIC ACID AND GLYCERIN AS PRESERVATIVE AGENTS. 

Carbolic Acid, in crystals 1 ounce. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 8 ounces. 

Shake well together, and add 

Pure Glycerin, concentrated : 5 pints. 

Distilled Water i gallon. 



232 Fresh F,ggs and Yellow Butter. 

This makes an excellent preparation for the preservation of animal 
bodies, where it is desired to preserve the color as well as the tissues. 
For naturalists, physicians and surgeons, this requisite is invaluable ; and 
by using double the amount of carbolic acid, an excellent preparation for 
washing and preserving corpses is obtained. 

ANTIDOTE FOR CARBOLIC ACID. 

When an overdose of carbolic acid has been taken internally, 
take a tablespoon-ful of olive oil. Repeat the dose as often as may be 
required. When strong carbolic acid has been used on the skin, ami it 
is desired to correct its corrosive effects, apply olive oil freely to the 
affected parts. 

CARBOLIC CRYSTALS CHANGE TO A DARK COLOR. 

Crystallized carbolic acid, when first prepared, is somewhat transpa- 
rent, but by exposure to the light assumes a dark appearance. In relation 
to this subject, we copy the following from the "Boston Journal of 
Chemistry," edited by James R. Nichols, M. D., the well-known manu- 
facturing chemist: "Crystallized carbolic acid becomes liquid in warm 
weather, and solidifies again as winter approaches. The best acid assumes 
a pinkish hue (which is due to the action of light) by long keeping, but 
this in no respect renders its use inadmissible for the nicest purpose 
AVe have had thousands of pounds, which, as it flowed from the retorts 
and crystallized, was as white and beautiful as the freshest snow, changing, 
in the course of twenty-four hours, so as to have some color. No speci- 
men from the best European makers, that we have seen, is free from this 
liability. Redistillation, a dozen times repeated, does not always suffice 
to maintain it in a colorless condition for many months."' 

CRDDE CARBOLIC ACID. 

This article is made from the alkaline portion of the liquors with 
which coal-tar is treated, which is reduced to dryness in iron stills, and 
decomposed by an acid. The portion which distills over, between l'S~}° 
and 37(J° Fahr., is collected separately as crude carbolic acid. It has the 
appearance and consistence of thin, dark-colored molasses, and is not 
used in medicine, but as a disinfecting, deodorizing and antiseptic agent. 
Only the crystallized acid is used for medicinal purposes. 

carbolic soap. 
Add one-fourth ounce of carbolic acid, crystalized, to the six ounces 
of glycerin, in the formula for making "perfumed glycerin soap," on page 
216, and proceed in all other respects as there set forth. This makes a 
good disinfecting soap, for all purposes. 

TO DEOHORIZE CESS-POOLS, GUTTERS, PRIVIES, ETC. 

Sulphate of Iron (copperas) 1 pound. 

Hot Water ' 1 gallon. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter 






When the iron is dissolved, pour or sprinkle the solution into the 
place to be purified, and in a few moments the offensive stench will be 
removed. 

In hot weather, when cholera or fevers prevail, after using the above 
solution of copperas, also disinfect with 

Carbolic Acid, crude 4 ounces. 

Cold Water 1 gallon. 

Agitate well together, and sprinkle over the infected places. 

Or the carbolic acid may be used in the form of powder, prepared 
as follows : 

Carbolic Acid, crude 1 pint. 

Sulphate of Lime (known as gypsum, or plaster of Paris) 10 pounds. 

Mix well together, and distribute wherever required. 

For sick-rooms, hospitals, ships, cellars, alleys, out-houses, etc., this 
is an efficient and convenient disinfectant. 

Either of the above-described preparations is far superior to chloride 
of lime, etc., used for the same purposes. 

Carbolic acid, as a disinfecting agent, used during the ravages of the 
Asiatic cholera, has proved itself the best specific for arresting that 
terrible disease. 

FAMILY MEDICINES. 

GLYCERIN AND EGG-YELK DRESSING. 

Glycerin 3 ounces. 

Yelks of Eggs 4 in number. 

Otto of L\oses 1 drop. 

Mix well together. 

This preparation has the consistence of cream, and is highly benefi- 
cial as a healing agent for chapped hands, lips, chafes, wounds, etc. It 
renders the skin soft and white. It is also a valuable dressing for all 
kinds of skin diseases, sores, etc., as it allays inflammation and excludes 
the air from the parts affected. 

STIMULATING DROPS. 

For colic, cramps, spasms, cholera, diarrhoea, dysentery, and the first 
stages of a cough. Also, to promote reaction in cases of shock or injury, 
lock-jaw, etc. 

Tincture of Myrrh 1 ounce. 

Tincture of Capsicum.... J ounce. 

Tincture of Peppermint 1 ounce. 

Tincture of Camphor \ ounce. 

Tincture of Valerian 1 ounce. 

Oil of Fireweed I ounce. 

Oil of Sassafras \ ounce. 

Bicarbonate of Potassa J ounce. 

Simple Sirup 5 ounces. 

Mix well together ; shake well just before taking. 

Dose: From 10 to 40 drops, according to age and requirements, in a 



234 Fresh Jlggs and Yellow Butter. 

wineglass-ful of water. The dose may be repeated every 30 minutes, and 
in extreme cases every 15 minutes, until relief is obtained. 

In severe cases of pain, soak the feet in hot water for 15 or 20 min- 
utes, and apply externally some of the mixture and a woolen cloth satur- 
ated in hot water over the region of the pain, which, together with the 
mixture taken internally, will remove pain and coldness, and produce a 
healthy perspiration. 

COUGH SIRUP. 

For coughs, colds, asthma, croup, bronchitis, consumption, and 
whooping-cough : 

Black Cohosh Root, powdered 1 ounce. 

Beth Root, " Jounce. 

Lobelia Herb, " 1J ounces. 

Spikenard R,oot, " 2 ounces. 

Licorice Root, " 1 ounce. 

Mix, and soak for twelve hours in 
Cold Water 3 pints. 

Then simmer for three or four hours. When cool, pour sediment 
and all into a bottle, and add 

Alcohol h pint. 

White Sugar 2 pound. 

Shake well together. Dose : From one to three teaspoons-ful sever- 
al times a day. 

Instead of using roots and herbs, as prescribed above, substitute for 
them the fluid extract .of each in the same proportions, adding four 
times their weight, of sugar-house or simple sirup, and omitting the 
alcohol, cold water and white sugar. 

ALTERATIVE SIRUP. 

Yellow-dock Root, powdered 2 ounces. 

Bittersweet " 2 ounces. 

Blue Flag " 1 ounce. 

Yellow Barilla " 1 ounce. 

Burdock Root " 2 ounces. 

Tag-Alder Bark " 2 ounces. 

Place altogether in a clean iron or porcelain kettle, and add 
Cold Water 2 quarts. 

Soak over night, or not more than twelve hours. 

Then gently simmer over a slow fire for two or three hours. When 
cool, put all into a jug, and add 

Good Gin 1 quart. 

Essence of Wintergreen 1 ounce. 

White Sugar 2 teacups-ful. 

Agitate thoroughly. Dose: One tablespoon-ful two or three times a 
day, shaking the jug each time after using. 



Fresh Eggs and Jellow Butter. 235 

Useful for all impurities of the blood, and excellent for scrofula, can- 
cers, ulcers, etc. 

[Note. — Instead of the roots and barks designated in this formula, 
the fluid extracts of all may be combined, in the same proportions, (which, 
as above, would make ten ounces), adding to them two and a half pints, 
or four times their weight, of either simple or sugar-house sirup. Omit 
the cold water, gin and white sugar, but the essence of wintergreen 
should be retained to flavor the sirup.] 

LIVER SIRUP. 

Fluid Extract of Blue Flag 1 ounce. 

Fluid Extract of Yellow Parilla 2 ounces. 

Fluid Extract of Mandrake 1 ounce. 

Fluid Extract of Prickly Ash J ounce. 

Fluid Extract of Black "Root 2 ounces. 

Sugar- house Sirup 1 quart. 

Essence of Wintergreen 1 ounce. 

Shake well together. 

Dose: One teaspoon-ful at morning, noon and evening, half an hour 
before meal-times. 

Lessen this dose, should it produce a cathartic effect ; and if the 
bowels are constipated, or not sufficiently relaxed, gradually increase the 
dose. 

For chronic inflammation, or inaction of the liver, constipation, etc., 
this preparation is unequaled ; and for purifying the blood, a dose 
should be taken three or four times a week, in connection with the alter- 
ative sirup. 

CATARRH. 

Catarrh, or chronic irritability of the mucous surfaces of the air- 
passages, generally results from " taking cold," and from a want of atten- 
tion to those hygienic measures which tend to fortify the system against 
sudden changes of temperature. 

Catarrh, if long neglected, becomes difficult to cure, and tends to 
induce bronchitis and consumption. 

General symptoms : A dull pain in the head ; swelling and redness of 
the eyes; the effusion of a thin, acrid mucous from the nose; hoarseness, 
cough, fever, etc. 

We submit the following as a reliable method of treating this disease : 

CATARRH REMEDIES. 

Chlorate of Potassa 1 ounce. 

Hot Water 1 pint. 

Stir until the potassa is dissolved. Into a bottle put 

Pure Glycerin 2 ounces. 

Carbolic Acid, crystals 1 drachm. 

Shake well together. 

When cool, add the solution of potassa. Shake well just before using. 



236 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 

Directions for Use. — Twice a day pour about a tablespoon-ful of the 
mixture into the palm of the hand, and inhale or draw it up the nostrils 
until it passes to the throat. This will allay all pain and inflammation, 
and heal the diseased membrane. 

The patient should also use the following smoking compound: 

Mullein Leaves, dried and pulverized 1 ounce. 

Sage Leaves, " " " " " 1 ounce. 

Lobelia Leaves " " " " i; 1 ounce. 

Mis well together. 

Using a new clay pipe, smoke two-thirds of a pipe-ful, forcing the 
smoke through the nose. This should be repented twice a day. 

ANOTHER VALUABLE SMOKING COMPOUND FOR CATARRH. 

Plant ain Leaves 1 ounce. 

lied Clover, blossoms and leaves ...1 ounce. 

Pulverize and thoroughly mix. Smoke as above. 

We would suggest that the patient use one smokiug compound one 
week, and then alternating with the other until cured. 

An infusion of plantain leaves and red clover blossoms and leaves, 
(one drachm of each, simmered in a pint of water for an hour or two), is 
also excellent, for catarrh, to be used the same as the solution of chlorate 
of potassa. 

It is better to alternate these catarrh remedies, using one for two or 
three days, and then the other. 

EVE WATER. 

White Sugar 1 ounce. 

Common Salt i ounce. 

Soft Water 1 pint. 

Agitate until the salt and sugar are dissolved. Strain through fine 
linen. Apply three or four times a day. 

Useful to relieve weakness and inflammation of the eyes. 

In cases of chronic inflammation and granulation of the eye, should 
the above preparation not have the desired effect, add to one pint of it 
one-fourth ounce of the sulphate of zinc, and shake well together. Use 
as previously directed. 

For acute inflammation of the eyes, poultices made of raw potatoes or 
slippery elm bark are excellent. 

COMPOUND LINJMICNT FOE NEURALGIA, RHEUMATISM, ETC. 

Oil of Hemlock = =5 ounce. 

Oil of Sassafras J ounce. 

Oil of Origanum ^ ounce. 

Tincture of Lobelia 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 percent 1 pint. 

Shake well together for a few minutes; then add 
Aqua Ammonia - ounces. 

Agitate, and keep in a closely corked bottle. 



Fresh Eggs and Jellow j3utter 287 

Shake immediately before using, and apply several times a day to 
the affected parts. 

We have prescribed this liniment for several years with decided suc- 
cess, as a remedy for neuralgia, rheumatism, toothache, and for all 
purposes where a stimulating liniment was required. 

RELAXING LINIMENT. 

Tincture of Lobelia 2 ounces. 

Tincture of Marygold 2 ounces. 

Glycerin 2 ounces. 

Oil of Sassafras 1 drachm. 

Alcohol 2 ounces. 

Mix, and apply to the affected parts several times a day. 

Useful for relaxing stiff joints, calloused and contracted tendons and 
muscles, and reducing chronic Inflammations. 

FAMILY LINIMENT. 

For healing wounds, burns, sores, cuts, and curing boils, bruises, 
felons, frost-bites, rheumatism, neuralgia, ringworm, salt rheum, etc. 

Tincture of Guaiacum 8 ounces. 

Tincture of Lobelia 4 ounces. 

Tincture of Myrrh 4 ounces. 

Oil of Hemlock 1 ounce. 

Oil of Cedar $ ounce. 

Oil of Anise J ounce. 

Carbolic Acid, (crystallized) J ounce. 

Glycerin 4 ounces. 

Alcohol, 95 per cent 12 ounces. 

Mix all together in a quart bottle, and shake well just before using. 
Saturate a soft cotton or linen cloth, or some lint, with this preparation, 
and apply to the parts affected several times a day. It will allay acute 
pain and reduce inflammation and swellings in almost every instance ; 
prevent or arrest erysipelatous inflammation and mortification, and may be 
regarded as a general " cure-all," for the various diseases of the skin, 
for man or beast. 

COOLING LOTION FOR INFLAMMATIONS AND VARIOUS DISEASES OF THE SKIN. 

Borax, pulverized 1 ounce. 

Chlorate of Potassa | ounce. 

Glycerin \\ ounces- 
Essence of Peppermint \ ounce. 

Rosewater 4 ounces. 

Soft Water..' 1 quart. 

Agitate well together. 

This also makes a cooling wash for the head, is a good hair dressing, 
and excellent for chapped hands, blistered feet, or chafing in any part of 
the body, as its effects are cooling and healing. 



238 Fresh J£ggs and Jellow ^utter 

PRICE-LIST OF CHEMICALS, ETC. 

If the chemicals used in the various processes described in this vol- 
ume cannot be readily purchased in a pure state, or at reasonable prices, 
elsewhere, they may be obtained at the following rates, and warranted 
pure and reliable, by addressing the author : 

NO. 1 LIQUID SILICATE OF SODA— (30° Baume), warranted 
pure for the purposes enumerated in this book, and weigh- 
ing twelve pounds to the gallon — 1 gallon (25 cents extra 

for package) $1.50 

5 gals., ($1.00 extra for keg), per gal 1.30 

10 gallons, ($1.25 extra for keg), per gal 1.20 

1 barrel, containing 40 gals. ($1,50 extra for barrel), per gal. 1.00 
NO. 2 LIQUID SILICATE OF SODA, the kind usually sold in 
commerce, which answers all purposes for making soap and 
washing compound* : 

For 10 galls, or less (extra for packages), per gal 90 

For 40 galls, (extra for the barrel), per gal 75 

[This No. 2 Silicate of Soda will not serve for preserving 
eggs, making fire-proof paint, or the preservation of stone.] 

NO. 1 TRANSPARENT RESIN, per bbl, (280 lbs) $7.00 

[The dark-colored resin must not be used for insulating 
barrels, or other purposes set forth in this book, as it con- 
tains too much tar, and will communicate an unpleasant 
flavor.] 

PARAFFIN WAX, pure (less than 10 lbs), per lb 45 

PARAFFIN WAX, pure (10 lbs and. upwards), per lb 40 

ANNATTO, warranted fresh and pure for the purposes recom- 
mended in this book, per lb $2.00 

[Adulterated Annatto may be purchased for a less price, 
but will not impart the desired color to butter, etc.] 

CARBOLIC ACID, (crystalized), per lb $2.00 

CARBOLIC ACID, (crude), per gal., by the barrel 3.25 

Parties who have not the conveniences for refining Linseed and 
Paraffin Oils, may obtain them prepared of the author, at the following 
prices : 

REFINED RESINOUS LINSEED OIL (See process of refining, page 
72), pure, for insulating eggs for dry packing, as recom- 
mended on page 38 : 

1 gal. (including package) $2.00 

5 gals, (including package), per gal 1.80 

10 galls, (including package), per gal 1.60 



J^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW BUTTER 239 

REFINED PARAFFIN OIL— (See process of refining, page 74); 
pure, for insulating eggs (see page 37); for deoxygenating 
and insulating eggs (see page 33); for insulating egg-pre- 
serving liquids, to prevent evaporation and the absorption 
of impurities (see pages 12, 15, 37, 59 and 60), 1 gallon, 

(including packages), per gal $2.00 

Five gallons (including packages), per gal 1.80 

Ten gallons (including packages), per gal 1.60 

GLYCERIN, pure and concentrated, for butter, etc., per lb 80 

INDIA RUBBER, pure gum, for making solutions, per pound 2.00 

NAPHTHA, pure and deodorized, for dissolving India Rubber — 

One gallon, (package 25 cents extra) 50 

Five gallons, (package $1.00 extra) 40 

Ten gallons, (package $1.25 extra) 30 

Persons who do not wish to prepare the butter Coloring, Butter Pre- 
servative, and Milk Preservative, can purchase them of the author, at the 
subjoined prices : 

BUTTER COLORING (warranted pure), made according to the for- 
mulas of this book, sufficient 

To color 100 lbs of butter $1.50 

To color 500 lbs of butter 6.00 

To color 1,000 lbs of butter .10.00 

About two-thirds of the cost is regained by the increased weight of 
the butter. 
BUTTER PRESERVATIVE— 

10 lb package, sufficient to preserve 120 lbs $1.25 

50 lb package, sufficient to preserve 600 lbs 5.00 

108 lb package, sufficient to preserve 1,200 lbs 9.00 

200 lb package, sufficient to preserve 2,400 lbs 16.00 

The preservative increases the weight of butter, so that its cost is 
more than recovered. 
MILK PRESERVATIVE— 

Five pound package, sufficient to preserve 240 gallons of 

milk $4.00 

WIRE BASKETS — For deoxygenating and insulating eggs, accord- 
ing to size, from $1.00 to $3.00 

Persons wishing to procure chemicals of any kind can be supplied 
on short notice and reasonable prices, and also obtain information relating 
to chemical processes, by addressing 

W. C. BRUSON, Practical Chemist 
Office, 145 La Salle St. P. O. Box 855, Chicago, 111. 



240 Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 



CHEMICAL, SCIENTIFIC AND AGRICULTURAL JOURNALS. 



DRUGGISTS' PRICE CURRENT. 

"The Chicago Druggists* Price-Current and Chemical Reposito- 
ry" is a practical journal of pharmacy, chemistry, and materia medica. 
Its editorial supervision is in able hands, H. D. Garrison, M. D., Pro- 
fessor of Chemist ry in Bennett Medical (Eclectic) College, being at the 
head of its scientific and literary departments. Dr. Garrison is a gentle- 
man of high attainments and celebrity in his profession, and the ability 
manifested in the "Price Current and Chemical Repository," is due 
to his editorial acumen. In its pages may he found various interesting 
topics, embracing Chemistry, the Arts and Sciences, etc. ; together with 
a complete price-list of drugs and chemicals. All these advantages serve 
to make this paper a desirable one for druggists, chemists, anil others 
engaged in scientific pursuits. Issued monthly — terms $1.00 per year. 
BARNET & HANNA, Publishers, 

186 Lake Street, Chicago. 



THE PRAIRIE FARMER. 

"The Prairie Farmer" has been established nearly thirty years, 
dating its origin in 1841. As the pioneer of agricultural journals in the 
west, it has always aimed at progress and improvement, and ably main- 
tains a high position in its class, claiming justly to be a leader of opinion 
upon whatever pertains to agriculture, horticulture, stock-breeding and 
raising, mechanical, educational and home interests. For the western 
farmer it is a valuable repository of such information as he daily needs. 
Its circulation we are glad to know, is large, and a general nir of pros- 
perity seems to enliven its pages. Published weekly in a quarto form, of 
eight pages, handsomely illustrated, at $2.00 per annum, by the 
PRAIRIE FARMER COMPANY, 

112 Monroe Street, Chicago, 111. 



THE BOSTON JOURNAL OF CHEMISTRY. 

"The Boston Journal of Chemistry as Applied to Medicine, 
Agriculture and the Arts," is published monthly, under the editorial 
supervision of the well-known chemist, .lames R. Nichols, M. D., and 
is considered excellent authority in all matters pertaining to chemistry, 
science, art, agriculture and medicine, aiming to furnish the freshest and 
best information on topics connected, directly or indirectly, with these 
departments. No one can read it without finding his intelligence increas- 
ed upon subjects in which every thinking man should feel an interest. 
Terms, $1.00 per annum. 

J AS. R. NICHOLS & CO., 

150 Congress Street, Boston, Mass. 



Fresh Eggs and Yellow Butter. 241 

THE SCIENTIFIC AMERICAN. 

" The Scientific American," besides being the largest and most 
widely circulated, is, we believe, the oldest journal of its class in this 
country, and the impetus which it has given to inventive genius is almost 
incalculable. Indeed, could the truth lie known, it is probable that many 
of the most important and successful inventions of the age are indebted 
to its columns for their germination and perfection. Every week its six- 
teen handsomely printed pages are replete with valuable information for 
artisans, scientists, farmers, and inventors, including a full account of 
the principal inventions and discoveries of the day. with explanatory en- 
gravings. Its articles embrace nearly every department of popular 
science, which everybody can read and understand; also, reports of 
scientific societies, at home and abroad, patent-law decisions and discus- 
sions, practical recipes, etc.; together with an official list of all the 
patent claims, a special feature that commends it to inventors and own- 
ners of patents. Published weekly, at $3.00 per annum, by 

MUNN & CO., 
37 Park Row, New York City. 



THE DRUGGISTS' CIRCULAR. 

"The Druggists' Circular, and Chemical Gazette," is now in its 
fourteenth annual volume, and its continued and prosperous existence 
bears evidence to the fidelity with which it maintains its dignified and 
important character as a representative journal of American Pharmacy. 
Ably edited, it has become a valuable authority in practical chemistry as 
applied to the arts, sciences, and pharmaceutical preparations, carefully 
recording the most notable discoveries, and lending its aid, as a general 
business organ, t<> advance the interests of druggists, chemists and 
apothecaries. Its list of contents every month, is extensive, embracing a 
great variety of scientific and useful topics practically treated, including 
many " Notes and Queries," and a Miscellaneous Department of interest- 
ing items. Published monthly, in numbers of sixteen quarto pages each, 
at $1.50 per annum, by 

L. V. NEWTON, M. D., 

36 Beekman Street, New York. 



THE AMERICAN ARTISAN. 

A very popular journal is "The American Artisan " among a large 
class of our intelligent builders, moulders and manufacturers, to whom, 
every week, it comes freighted with the information which they need for 
instruction and preservation. Its scope embraces everything relating to 
the advantages and use of new inventions and discoveries in art, science 
and manufactures, illustrated and embellished with good engravings ; all 
of which make up a mechanical record of great value. Agricultural im- 
plements, labor-saving devices, and whatever of worth pertains to the 
growth of mechanical ingenuity or social science, finds place in its col- 
umns. The utility of a journal, competently conducted, like "The 
Artisan," will commend it to capitalists, inventors and working-men 
throughout the country. Published at $2.00 per annum, by 

BROWN, COOMBS & CO., 

189 Broadway, New York. 



242 J^resh : Eggs and v ellow Butter. 

THE ART?. 
"The Arts: Demoted to Science and Arts," edited by Joseph M. 
Hirsh. the able chem is( - :~ntist, does honor to Chicago, as an evi- 

dence of the culture and refinement to which she is advancing. Forty 
•• a howling wiiderne-- - -omething to know that to-day 

she can sustain a seientifi :e this, whicli displays great editori- 

d hearty encomiums from the press, as well as the 
scientific men of the West. Its object is to introduce useful knowleJge. 
of a theoretical and pra . racter, into every home, at a price 

within the means of all. Eminent men are numbered among its contrib- 
r aid tends to bestow upon it an intrinsic and perma- 
nent value. S : »nly ; - it ably conducted, but neatly embellished, each 
number containing a lithographic portrait of some prominent scientist, 
with his biography. - - -rveral illustrations in important papers. 
•• The Art- s still in its first half-year, and g - -. r e hope with 

age to see it gather increased ability and influence. Its external appear- 
ance is very attractive, and its mechanical execution creditable to the 
printer. Terms, $1.00 per year. Published monthly by 

J. M. H IRS II x CO.. 

k 12 South Wells Street. 

Chicago, Illinois. 



THE WESTERN RURAL. 
'•The Western Rural: A Weekly for the Farm and Fire- 
published simultaneously in Chicago and Detroit, is devoted to the vari- 
ous departments of rural affairs, and particularly adapted to the needs 
of the West. Besides the important issues of agriculture and horticulture, 
which it liberally discus--- . • so choice original and selected 

- --Uaneous reading for all classes, presenting a very com- 
plete and entertaining rural and family newspaper. It has attained a 
large circulation, and, under th- - .'.ly and financially, of 

H. X. F. Lewis, with able assistants, is one of the most successful publi- 
cations in this country. Terms %1 : year. 

H. X. F. LEWIS. Publisher, 

reet, Chicago. 



JOURNAL OF APPLIED CHEMISTRY. 

•* The Journal or Applied Chemistry,'' published simultaneously 
every month in New York. I .ia. and Bo=ton. is devoted to chem- 
.stantly developed and applied to the arts, manufactures, metal- 
lurgy and agriculture ^tnber. of sixteen quarto . - Mains 

original articles on general chemistry in connection with the above-named 

departmeL- essays _ :. ous and exotic products derived from the 

mineral, vegetable and animal kingdoms : expositions of the adultera- 

lumercial substances and the way to detect falsifications, with 

papers on particular fabricati. inning, dyeing, 

etc. A suitable - . to practical recipes and interesting 

ifie intelligence. Full and carefully prepared market reviews and 

--current of drugs and chemi :y description are given 

in each number, for >ev,- York. Boston and Philadelphia, with tab.- 

imports, etc. Terms. $1.50 per annum. Published fcv 

DEXTEK i CO. 
17 Spruce Street. New York. 



- 1 := S AJN^ 



" z _ l : m z rrTBB 



242 



z^zi^zz: FIRE! tz-iz:: z^Z3_zz : 

EXCELSIOR 



Fire Extinguisher ! 




l^TZ: 



PATENT. 



Portable and Self-Actinsr- 



Priee. S4 -: - 

i n 

. ~ :' 

- : 

■ - ■ ' " ' I - - 

with power! - 

surance. The pabti 

all parties 
i 

ex:elsior fire ezuhguishkb ::.. 

si 1 - -Pres 

• - - 

ton St 



CHEMISTS AND DRUGGISTS. 

135 > J Etdison S r . . Chicag-o. 

Murafa : 

FLUID EXTRA = SOLED EXTRACTS - 

MEDICINAL S1RU1 - 
PURl 

s . ■ ■■ . I 

J^ tb. and 1 _ - 

DRUG GRIM ".:• - EVERY KE 
HOPS PRF>>EL> TO ORDER, AND FOR SALE AT LOW PRICES 



244 ^RESH ^GGS AND YELLOW fiuTTER. 

Western @k@aL&@ftl 

Offloe, 203 South Water St, and 10 & 12 Mil Wells St, 

CHIGA&O, - ILL. 



JOSEPH M. HIRSH & CO., Proprietors, 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

ANILINE COLORS, suitable for dye works and family dyes — all 

shades. 
CARBOLIC ACID, for disinfecting. 25 cents per gallon. 
CARBOLIC ACID, for burns. 50 cents per pound. 
CARBOLIC ACIO, for destroying insects. $1.00 per pound. 
CARBOLATE OF GLYCERIVE, for affections of the throat. 
GLYCERINE, for printers, perfumers and druggists, warranted 

equal to the very best. 
PEPSIN-WINE, for dispeptics. Used by the profession universally. 
FLAVORING EXTRACTS, for household use. 
LIQUOR and WINE ESSENCES. 
DEXTRIN, substitute for gum arabic. 
Pharmaceutical preparations generally. 

{ The quality of our goods we always guarantee prime, and 

prices low. 

+ i +■ — 

ANALYTICAL LABORATORY 

OF- 

J". ZMI. HIRSH &c CO, 
10 & 19 South Wells St , 



ANALYSIS AND ESSAYS of technical products, minerals, drugs, 
merchandise generally. 

1'athological Specimens, etc., made at our office. 

Correctness guaranteed. 

PLANS OF FACTORIES and Estimates furnished for all branch- 
es of manufacture and mining. Advice given regarding the 
practicability of new or old processes of manufacture. 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

ANILINE DYES 217—244 

ANILINE INKS 195 

APPLES— 

Antiquity of the apple 113 

Improved by culture 113 

Longevity of apple trees 113 

Number of varieties in the United States 113 

The best climate for apple raising 113 

Flavor of apples, whence obtained 114 

Apples as an article of diet 114 

ANNATTO— 

History, names and uses of , 224 

Concentrated tincture of annatto — how to make 85 

ALBUMEN ...5 

ALDEHYD 140 

alterative sirup 234 

butter- 
How made in the best manner .76 

Necessity of keeping the cream cool 76 

Effect of boiling water on cream 76 

How butter and cream should be kept 77 

Cleanliness indispensable in butter making 77 

Why butter becomes sour and rancid 78 

How to Restore Sour and Rancid Butter 79 

The number one, cold process 80 

Rancid butter converted into good table butter 81 

Various materials for refining butter 82 

Preparing butter for hot climates 82 

How to Color Butter 83 

White and "streaked" butter made to resemble "June 

butter" ..83 to 89 

Chemical composition of butter 91 

Difference between winter and summer butter 91 

Insulating butter firkins 91 

Packing butter in insulated firkins, etc 92 

Powdered ice used to cool butter when packing 92 

To prevent firkins shrinking or swelling 93 

Number two process for preparing butter firkins for packing. ..93 

New oak firkins not to be used without preparation 93 

Average yield of butter from good milk 97 

15a 



11 PONTENTS. 

BUTTER PRESERVATIVE— page. 

The art of keeping butter sweet 89 

How to prepare the preservative 90 

Directions for using it 90 

Preserving butter with honey 90 

Effect of glycerin with butter 90 

-BAKING POWDER— 

Formula and directions for using 180 

Making yeast cakes 180 

BEERS— VEGETABLE AND ROOT— 

Corn beer 133 

Ginger beer 132 

Lemon " 132 

Root " 133 

Sarsaparilla compound root beer 131 

Spruce beer 131 

BLACKING— 

Water-proof blacking for boots, shoes, harness, etc 198 

Water-proof for soles of boots and shoes 198, 

Liquid polish blacking 215 

Paste (polish) blacking 215 

BUTYRIN 78 

BUTYRIC ACID 78 

CIDER— 

Known to the ancients = 114 

Made in nearly all temperate climates 114 

Sweet cider 114 

Best method of fermenting apple juice 114 

Cider vinegar 115 

What apples make the best cider 115 

Cider kept for 25 years 115 

Poor apples — cider from 115 

Preserving and flavoring cider llfi 

Composition and specific gravity of cider 117 

When cider should be bottled 117 

Rules for making cider 117 

Average yield of cider 117 

Alcohol in cider 117 

Philosophy of preserving cider :... 118 

Champagne cider 118 

Cider wine 119 

Artificial cider 119 

Cider without apples 120 



PONTENTS ill 

Cider — Continual . page. 

Sweet cider — imitation of 120 

Cider — imitation of 121 

How to bottle or can sweet cider for preservation 121 

CHEMICAL, SCIENTIFIC AND AGRICULTURAL JOURNALS 240 

CHEESE— 

Composition of 100 

Chemical analysis of cheese 100 

Its flesh and muscle-making properties 100 

Obesity and its effects 102 

Digestibility of cheese 102 

Process of cheese making 103 

Rennet — what it is, and how prepared 103 

The difference between good and inferior cheese 104 

Taking care of cheese 105 

Proper season for manufacturing 105 

Acid substituted for rennet 106 

Cheese vats and presses 106 

Salting cheese properly 106 

Coloring cheese — usual method ; improved process 107 

How to preserve cheese from flies, maggots, and dust — new 
method 107 

CATARRH— Cure for 235—236 

CANDLES— 

Refined tallow candles 182 

Paraffin wax candles 182 

CHEMICAL PRICE-LIST 238—239 

COUGH SIRUP 234 

COLOGNES , 158 

CLOTH RENOVATORS— 

Useful for removing grease, oil, paint, tar, was, varnish, etc., 
from clothing, silk, satin, ribbons, cotton, woolen, table- 
covers, carpets, etc., 178 

COLOR RESTORATIVE— 

To restore color to garments 214 — 216 

C RE AM- 
Ds origin, and how to obtain the greatest quantity 93 

Its chemical composition 94 

How to preserve it for months 94 

CASEIN 76—100 

CARROTS— 

The juice as a butter coloring 88 

How to use it for coloring butter 88 

CAOUTCHOUC— (see India Rubber) 214 



iv PONTENTS. 

CEMENT— page. 

Best cement for general purposes 199 

Cement for iron and stone 199 

Cement for glass, metals, etc 200 

Cement for labeling tin- ware 200 

Gum for labels, stamps, etc 200 

Mouth glue 200 

CARBONIC ACID GAS— 

Properties and uses of 226 

Ho w manufactured 22 (.1 

CARBOLIC ACID— 

Properties and uses of 228 

As a disinfectant 231, 232, 233 

Method of preparing carbolate of glycerin 229 

The parasitic theory of disease 228 

Spores the cause of disease 231 

As a remedy for diphtheria, or sore throat; for healing wounds, 
burns, sores, cuts, boils, felons, bruises, frost-bites; for 
rheumatism and neuralgia, ring-worm, salt-rheum, itch, 
cancer, scrofulous sores, asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, 

pulmonary consumption and dyspepsia 229 — 230 

Carbolic inhalation 230 

Carbolic acid for dyspepsia 230 

Trichinae spiralis cured by carbolic acid 230 

Carbolic acid for hydrophobia 230 

Carbolic acid not an acid 231 

How to dissolve carbolic acid crystals 231 

Carbolic acid as a cholera preventive 231 

Carbolic acid and glycerin as a preservative 231 

Antidote to carbolic acid 232 

Carbolic crystals become dark-colored 232 

Crude carbolic acid 232 

Carbolic acid as a protection against mosquitoes, flies, etc 231 

DYEING- 
DYEING -with Aniline Colors — 

Preparing cloth for dyeing 217 

Violet aniline purple for wool 217 — 219 

Violet aniline purple for cotton 218 

Aniline red (fuchsine) on wool and silk 218 

Aniline red (fuchsine) on cotton 219 

Hoffman's dahlia, violet, red and bluish parme shades 219 

Aniline blue on wool and silk 219 

Aniline blue violet on cotton 220 

Aniline blue on cotton 220 



pONTENTS. 



V 



Dyeing with Aniline Colors — Continued. page. 

Scarlet aniline on wool 220 

Aniline green on wool 221 

Aniline green soluble in water 221 

Iodine aniline green for cotton 221 

Aniline yellow 221 

Picric acid 221 

Picric acid for yellow, green, drab and other colors 221 

General suggestions on aniline dyeing... 222 

Compound colors 222 

Other Methods of Dyeing — 

Artificial flowers 203 

Black for woolen goods 222 

Black for cotton goods 223 

Straw and chip hats and bonnets black 223 

Straw and chip hats and bonnets varnished 223 

DEODORIZING Cess-pools, out-houses, etc 232 

EGGS— 

Preservation of eggs — general remarks 5 

Effects of chemical agents in common use 6 

Eggs undergo a change in lime-water 9 

Chemical composition of the " white " of eggs 9 

Become " watery " in lime-water 9 

Decomposition of the white vitiates the yelk 9 

Lime-water will not arrest decomposition 10 

Limed eggs held in low estimation 10 

Egg-yelk hardened by salt combined with lime 10 

How to prevent this result 10 

Salt or lime dissolves the white 11 

Why the " lime process " spoils the egg 11 

Formula for a new lime compound 11 

Directions for its use 11 12 

Proper barrels or vats for preserving necessary 13 

Cautious use of salt recommended 13 

Objectionable substances prohibited 13 

Improved compound process 14 

Instructions for its use 15 

New method of preserving egg-preserving solutions 15 

Improved dry process for preserving and packing 1G 

Antiseptic properties of the dry procss 17 

Effects of salt, dry ashes, oats, sand, bran, straw, chaff, saw- 
dust and shavings, as packing for eggs 18 — 19 

Liquid silicate of soda as a dry coating 19 



VI pONTENTS. 

Eggs — Continued. pack. 

How used, and its effects 20 

Why stale eggs cannot be preserved by the common methods. ..20 
Effects of certain chemical agents upon eggs — cream of tartar, 

diluted sulphuric acid, and alum 21 

Bisulphides of calcium and sodium: sulphate of lime; 
vinegar: tartaric, muriatic, oxalic, and acetic acids; 
carbonates of potassa and soda ; borax and saltpetre. .22 
Sulphites of lime and soda; chlorides of calcium and lime: 
bicarbonates of soda and potash ; sulphite, hypo- 
sulphite and phosphate of soda; tartrate of potassa; 
tartrate of potassa and soda; chlorate of potassa; 
carbonate of ammonia; carbolic acid, pyroligneous 

acid and glycerin 23 

Sugar 24 

Air-proof and hot water processes for preserving 2-1 

Eggs hatched one year after being made air-proof 25 

Why clouded eggs usually appear clear after coming out of 
lime-water, etc 20 

Why eggs sometimes crack when in egg-preserving solutions, 

or after removal from them 27 

How to prevent preserved eggs from cracking when boiling 27 

Why the shells of preserved eggs crack when boiling 28 

Why fresh eggs sink and stale eggs float in water 28 

Keeping eggs in stone jars 28 

The secret of preserving eggs fresh, and the causes of the fail- 
ure of most egg-preservatives 29 

Temperature for keeping eggs 29 

Oxygen in the new-laid egg — its effect 30 

Conditions required to induce putrefaction 30 

Chemical change during incubation 30 

Temperature favorable for germination 30 

A deoxygenated egg cannot spoil in any climate 31 

Eggs for preserving 31 

Chemical operation of the deoxygenating process 31 

Fresh and new appearance of deoxygenated eggs 32 

Disadvantages of the egg dealer overcome by the deoxygena- 
ting process for preserving eggs 32 

The number one process of deoxygenating and insulating 

eccr*? OO 

The new colorless solution for preserving eggs 33 

The process of deoxygenating and insulating eggs fully ex- 
plained 33—34 

The best substance known in chemistry for deoxygenating and 
insulating eggs 35 

Preserving eggs by the cold insulating process 37 



PONTENTS. Vli 

Egos— Continued. page. 

Insulating eggs for dry packing 38 

Number two process for deoxygenating eggs 39 — 40 

Keeping deoxygenated eggs 41 

Why the new colorless solution is preferable to other means of 

keeping eggs 42 

Eggs rendered less liable to break, increasing their durability 

and value 42 

Why limed eggs soon spoil after being taken out of lime 

solutions 42 

Eggs kept fresh by cold air 43 

Anatomy of the egg 44 

Why the yelk of a fresh egg settles against the shell, and 

the egg soon after spoils 44 

Deoxygenation and insulation as a preventive 46 

The size and weight of eggs 46 

Salt water a test for fresh eggs 47 

What class of eggs to select, and the best months for preserv- 
ing them 47 

Testing and preparing eggs for the preserving process 49 

Instructions for packing and shipping eggs .- 49 

General suggestions concerning eggs in preserving solutions. ...50 

The sex of eggs 51 

Length of time required to hatch the eggs of various fowls 51 

Why the large end of a new-laid egg feels cold 51 

Magnitude of the egg trade 52 

Table of statistics for 1869, showing the population of the 
United States and Territories, number of families, number 
of farms, number of dozens of eggs produced, and their 

value at 20 cents per dozen 53 

Perfect chemical analysis of the egg 54 — 55 

Its mechanical and medical uses 56 

Interesting facts concerning albumen 56 

Dessicating or drying eggs 57 

Animal warmth or germinating heat as affecting the decompo- 
sition of eggs 57 

An egg never decomposes as long as it has life 58 

Barren or non-fecundated eggs the best for preserving 58 

A lime preparation for preserving, that will not pack around 

the eggs 59 

All egg-preserving solutions cooled before using 60 

Cooked eggs keep sweet much longer than raw 61 

Elements of a fresh egg, and the changes which they undergo 

in decomposition 65 

Process for insulating kerosene oil and other barrels and 

vats for holding egg-preserving solutions..., 66 to 69 



yiii pONTENTS. 

Eggs — Continued. page. 

New oak barrels— their effects on egg-preserving solution.* 70 

Vats — how to construct, for keeping eggs 71 

Result of experiments in coating eggs with — 

Refined resinous linseed oil 72 

Raw linseed oil 74 

Refined paraffin oil 74 

Olive oil 75 

Cotton-seed oil 75 

Castor oil 75 

Poppy oil 75 

Sperm oil 75 

Lard oil 75 

Tallow 75 

Lard 75 

Butter 75 

Beeswax 75 

Paraffin wax 75 

Caoutchouc 75 

Resin, etc 75 

EYE WATER 236 

ESSENCES— 

See Tinctures from Essential Oils 153 

EXTRACTS-FLUID FORM— 

General rules for preparing fluid extracts 155 — 150 

Hydro-Alcoholic Extract of Golden-Seal 155 

Over three hundred kinds made by one drug house ...15(3-248 

EXTRACTS AND RESINOIDS 243 

FIRE-PROOF PAINT 205 

FIRE EXTINGUISHER 243 

FRUIT— 

Fruit and vegetables preserved by coagulating their albu- 
men 61 — 62 

FUSIBILITY of Va-.ious Substances 202 

FILES AND RASPS— To renew and recut 202 

FIBRIN !08 

GLUE— See Liquid Glue 181 

GLYCERIN— 

General properties and u*<-> 225 

Used to improve butter 00 

Glycerin dressing for chapped hands, etc 237 



Contents. ix 

HAIR AND HAIR DRESSINGS— page. 
Hair "Restoratives," in general 183 

HAIR OILS— 

Number One Hair Oil 184 

Number Two Hair Oil 184 

Hair Invigorator and Restorative 185 

Instantaneous Hair Dye 185 

Shampooing Compound 186 

Hair Curling Liquidine 186 

Cooling Hair Dressing 237 

HONEY— 

Imitation Honey 204 

Used in making champagne cider 118 

Used in making mead 121 

LNSULATING BARRELS, Vats, Firkins, Pails, etc.— 

How to prepare or insulate carbon or kerosene oil, lard and 
linseed oil or other barrels, whether new or old (as well 
as wooden vats), and render them suitable for holding 
egg-preserving solutions, pork, beef, brine, cider, vinegar, 
alkalies, acids, sirups, butter, water, etc. — Number one 

process and formula GG-G7 

Number two process for preparing barrels 68—69 

New oak bai-rels not adapted to hold egg-preserving solutions 

unless prepared 70 

The most suitable barrels for preserving solutions 71 

Philosophy of the insulating processes 71 

Vats for keeping eggs — how to prepare 71 

How to insulate butter firkins, pails, etc 91 

INKS— 

Blue-black Writing Ink 188 

Blue Writing Ink 188 

Marking Inks 188 

Black Ink — Writing or Copying 189 

Black Ink Powder 189 

Green Writing Ink 189 

Red Writing Ink 189 

Red (Carmine) Ink 190 

Gold Writing Ink 190 

Silver Ink 190 

Bronze Ink 190 

Crimson Ink 190 

Violet Ink 190 

India Ink 191 

Black Ink from Elderberries 195 



X pONTENTS 

Sympathetic, or Invisible Inks — page. 

Blue Sympathetic Ink 191 

Green Sympathetic Inks 191 

Yellow Sympathetic Ink 191 

Black Sympathetic Ink 192 

Rose Purple Sympathetic Tnk .' 192 

Black Indelible Ink — 

Number one formula 192 — 193 

Number two formula 195 

To remove indelible ink 194 

To make old writing look like new 194 

To give new writing an aged appearance 194 

To ascertain the age of old writings and how to copy them. ..196 

Aniline Inks — 

Red Aniline Ink 195 

Green Aniline Ink 195 

Violet Aniline Iuk 195 

Purple Aniline Ink 195 

Blue Aniline Ink 195 

Crimson Aniline Ink 195 

Orange Aniline Ink 195 

Black Aniline Ink 195 

INDIA RUBBER— 

Preparation of the pure gum 214 

Solution of india rubber 214 

Hard india rubber 215 

KEROSENE OIL— PETROLEUM - 

Kerosene oil and its adulterations 211 

To refine kerosene oil -12 

To test kerosene oil 212 

Petroleum — Its distilled products 212 -213 

LIQUID SILICATE OF SODA— 

Its properties, manufacture, uses and price 227-238 

liver sirup 235 

lime- 
As an egg preservative 6 

Etfects upon eggs 6 

Its caustic properties 7 

Dissolves best in cold water 7 

Quantity required to saturate a barrel of water 7 

Air excluded from lime-water 7 

Necessity of renewing lime-water 8 



PONTENTS. XI 

Lime — Continued. page. 

Chemical properties of lime-water 8 

Why it renders eggs " watery " 9 

Does not arrest decomposition 10 

"Cream of Lime Compound," to make 11 

Used in whitewash 204 

Mortar, to prepare with lime 204 

Used in fire-proof paint 205 

LIQUID GLUE, Etc.— 

India Rubber Compound Liquid Glue 181 

Mouth Glue 200 

Gum for stamps and labels 200 

lemonade- 
How tomake portable lemonade 130 

LINSEED OIL— 

Refined resinous linseed oil — mode of refining and bleach- 
ing 72 — 73 

Its use in coating eggs 74 

Raw linseed oil as a coating for eggs 74 

To boil linseed oil 198 

LACTIC ACID 76 

LINIMENTS— 

Compound, for neuralgia, rheumatism, etc 236 

Relaxing Liniment 237 

Family Liniment 237 

Cooling lotion for inflammations and various diseases of the 
skin 237 

MEAT, ETC.— 

Meat, vegetables and fruits preserved by coagulating the 
albumen 61 

Canning meats, etc 62 

The presence of air produces fermentation 62 

Inanimate organic matter, animal or vegetable, subject to 

vinous, acetous and putrefactive fermentations 63 

Elementary constituents of animal and vegetable substances, 

and their changes under fermentation 63 

Antiseptics used to preserve meat 108 

The theory of preserving meats 108 

Salt impairs the nutrition of meat 108 

Methods of dry salting and pickling 109-110 

Pickle for Reef, Pork and Mutton 110 

Articles used in preserving meat, and their effects Ill 

Preserving meat with smoke 112 

Insulating meat protects it from air, moisture, flies, dust, 

mould, etc 112 



Xli pONTENTS. 

Meat, etc. — Continued. page. 

Pyroligneous acid for preserving meat 112 

Fresh meat preserved in hot weather 204 

MEDICINES— 

To prepare for family use 233 

MILK— 

Its composition and preservation 95 

Its specific gravity and average weight 95 

How to preserve milk for years 9b' 

How to detect watered milk 96 

Effects of heat and agitation 97 

Composition of skimmed milk 97 

Average yield of butter from good milk 97 

Butter can be seen in milk with a, microscope 97 

Effect of boiling milk 98 

Never put milk in lead or zinc vessels 98 

How to prevent milk from souring 98 

Why lightning causes milk to sour 99 

Why stale milk curdles when boiled 99 

Milk should always be boiled in a water-bath 99 

Used for clarifying vinegar 140 

MARGARINE 77 

MEAD— To make 121 

MANGANESE— Black Oxyd 198 

MALIC ACID 114 

MORTAR— To prepare 201 

OLEIN 91 

OIL OF EGG YELK 84 

OIL OF BUTTER 88 

OINTMENTS— 

Articles that enter into their general composition 159 

Bittersweet Ointment 100 

Green Ointment 159 

Poke-root Ointment (compound) 1(51 

Stramonium Ointment 160 

Venice Turpentine Ointment 159 

Yellow-dock Ointment 1G0 

PARAFFIN OIL— 

Mode of refining and bleaching 74 

PARAFFIN WAX— Properties and uses 225 

PERFUMERY— 

Spirit, of Bergamot 157 

Spirituous Hungary Water 157 



PONTENTS. Xlii 

Colognes — Spirituous — page. 

Number One Cologne 158 

Number Two Cologne 158 

Pearl Wash for the Complexion, removing tan, etc 187 

Toilet Powder 216 

Frangipanni Sachets, for clothing 216 

PERRY— "Wine of Pears " — how made 121 

PICKLING— 

Quick process for pickling cucumbers 202 

To color pickles 203 

PLATING SOLUTIONS— 

Preparing articles for plating 209 

Plating with gold 209 

Silver-plating metals without a battery 210 

Cost of electro-plating 210 

Another process for silver-plating 210 

Polishing Cream, for cleaning silver-plate 211 

To plate copper and brass with tin 211 

To plate or "galvanize" iron 211 

To plate with copper 213 

To pl;>te with tin 214 

PLASTERS— 

Adhesive and Strengthening Plaster 162 

Irritating Plaster 163 

POTATOES— 

Poisonous potatoes 217 

Preservation of potatoes 216 

PRESERVING DEAD BODIES 232 

PRINTS— 

To prevent prints from fading 176 

PUTTY — To remove from broken windows 203 

PYROLIGNEOUS ACID— For meat 112 

For eggs 23 

SIRUPS— 

Simple Sirup the basis of other sirups 123 

Simple Sirup subject to vinous fermentation 124 

Alterative Sirup 234 

Cough Sirup 234 

Liver Sirup 235 

Soda, or Flavored Sirups 125 

Blackberry Sirup 127 

Cream Sirup 126 

Cotfee Sirup 128 

Cinnamon Sirup 129 

Ginger Sirup 126 

Lemon Sirup (genuine) 125 

Lemon Sirup (imitation) 125 

Mace Sirup 129 

Nutmeg Sirup 129 

Orange Sirup 126 



xiv PONTENTS. 

Soda, of Flavored Sirups — Continued. page. 

Orgeat Sirup 128 

Peach Sirup 128 

Pine Apple Sirup (genuine) 127 

Pine Apple Sirup (imitation) 127 

Raspberry Sirup (genuine) 127 

Raspberry Sirup (imitation) 127 

Rose Sirup 128 

Sarsaparilla Sirup 126 

Strawberry Sirup (genuine) 12^ 

Strawberry Sirup (imitation) 127 

Vanilla Sirup 128 

Coloring for sirups 129 

Cochineal coloring — to make 129 

Carbonic acid gas in soda-water 130 

SILICATE OF SODA— 

Liquid silicate of soda — its manufacture 227 

STEARIN 91 

SOAP— 

Antiquity of its origin and use 170 

The general composition of soaps 170 

Two varieties of soap — hard and soft 170 

Transparent Hard Soap, perfumed 171 

White Bar Soap, perfumed 171 

Almond Soap 172 

Soft Soap from Hard Soap (quick process) 172 

Improved Soft Soap 172 

Soft Soap — common 172 

Perfumed Glycerin Soap 216 

Carbolic Acid Soup 232 

STAINS— 

To remove from silk, cotton, linen and other fabrics, and to 

restore their color 176 

(See, also, Cloth Renovator.) 178 

To remove ink-stains and iron rust 194-195 

STONE - 

Artificial Stone and Marble 206 

To prepare artificial stone 207 

Preservation of building stone 207 

STIMULATING DROPS 233 

STARCH POLISH 203 

TANNING— 

Skins of animals — -of what composed 164 

How tannin is produced 164 

Converting skins into leather — three methods 164 

The Indian process 164 

Qualities of leather properly tanned 165 

Philosophy of tanning 165 

Preparing skins for tanning 165 

Compound dressing, for keeping leather soft and rendering it 

water-proof 166 



PONTENTS. XV 

Tanning — Continued. page. 

Tanning the skins of animals with the hair or fur on 167-188 

How to renovate furs 167 

How to color furs or hair pelts 168 

Tanning skins with the hair off 169 

TINCTURES— 

Their character and manufacture 150 

Tinctures from Gums, Herbs and Roots — 

Tincture of Blood root 1 51 

Tincture of Black Cohosh 152 

Tincture of Camphor (spirits of camphor) 150 

Tincture of Catechu 150 

Tincture of Capsicum (cayenne pepper) 151 

Tincture of C olu m b 152 

Tincture of Ginger 151 

Tincture of Guaiacum 150 

Tincture of Golden-seal 152 

Tincture of Lobelia (Indian Tobacco) 152 

Tincture of Myrrh 150 

Tincture of Opium (Laudanum] 150 

Tincture of Peruvian Bark 152 

Tincture of Prickly Ash 152 

Tincture of Rhubarb 151 

Tincture of Senna 151 

Tincture of Henna, Compound (Elixir Salulis) 151 

Tincture of Spearmint (Spirits of Mint) 153 

Tinctures from Essential Oils — • 

Tincture of Anise 153 

Tincture of Cinnamon 153 

Tincture of Lavender 154 

Tincture of Peppermint 153 

Tincture of Sassafras 153 

Tincture of Spearmint 154 

Tincture of VVintergree-n 153 

Coloring and preparing tinctures 154 

TOILET POWDER 216 

TOOTH POWDER 215 

VARNISHES— 

Black Shellac Varnish 196 

Copal Varnish 197 

India Rubber Varnish 197 

Orange Shellac Varnish 196 

Red Shellac Varnish 197 

Shellac Varnishes of other colors 197 

Transparent Varnish, for iron and steel 197 

VINEGAR (Acetum)— 

Ancients manufactured it from wiue 139 

Effects of its moderate and excessive use 139 

How formed by chemical action, its changes and their 

products., 139 — 140 

Cider vinegar — how made 115-140 

Clarifying vinegar with milk 140 



xvi pontents. 

The Manufacture of Vinegar — page. 

Its chemical philosophy 141 

Quick processes — Nos. 1 and 2 141 

Quick process No. 3 142 

Slow processes — Nos. 1 and 2 142 

Instantaneous process 142 

Vinegar generators — mode of constructing 142, 143, 144 

To decolorize vinegar 145 

Vinegars derived from fruits 140 

Vinegars refined by boiling 146 

Vinegars refined by distillation 141} 

Gooseberry Vinegar 1-17 

Rhubarb Vinegar 147 

Adulterations of vinegar 147 

How to detect sulphuric acid in vinegar 148 

Wine vinegar — its properties 148 

Sirups not to be run through generators 148 

Vinegar — standards of strength 149 

Powers of saturation, and how numbered 149 

WAX— 

Grafting wax for trees 201 

lied, blue, black and green sealing-wax 201 

Improved red sealing-wax 201 

WASHING COMPOUNDS— 

Objections to borax and sal-soda 174 

Washing Compound 174 

Improved Washing Compound 174 

Objectionable articles used in washing 175 

To clean clothes 216 

WATER— 

Made soft for washing 175 

To settle and purify muddy water 176 

WHITEWASH— For walls 204 

WINES— 

Domestic Wines 13-5 

i\pple Wine 137 

Blackberry Wine 136 

Currant Wine 135 

Elderberry Wine 137 

Ginger Wine 138 

Isabella (or Catawba) wine 137 

Port Wine (imitation) 136 

Port Wine (" genu- wine ") 136 

Raspberry Wine 137 

Rhubarb Wine 135 

Strawberry Wine 137 

Tomato Wine 135 

WEIGHT— 

(Comparative) of various substances 202 

WOOD-GAS— Products of Oak Wood 203 

YEAST-CAKES— (See Baking Powder) 180 



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